HEI Distributor - Do I need to replace any of these parts?

[Vbb199]

If the advance canister holds vacuum, the plate is free, the advance arms and springs are lubed, there isn’t excessive rotational slop, and you don’t hear radio interference that correlates with a constantly advancing/retarding spark curve, I wouldn’t be too worried. The capacitor is just a noise suppressing device for the radio in HEI, not like points where it’s crucial. The ignition module looks like an OEM part, which is good, and you grounded the ignition coil right, which is good, and the ICM connectors are in good shape, which is good. If anything breaks, you can replace/rebuild, which is what I would do. Easy job.

I’m glad people have had good results with the Skipper on here, but isn’t that a Chinesium distributor? Or is it Taiwanese? If it’s Chi-Nal versus Chicom, I think that makes an appreciable, positive difference in quality, but I don’t know where it comes from.

That's what I've heard about skip white eBay ****, chinesium parts. But apparently it's not that bad.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Okay, you guys took everything wrong. I know nothing about distributors AND want to know if its FINE. The rusty kickout things for mechanical advance, Okay, I can clean and lube them. Preferable lube? Im asking because I dont know if that was a sign of it being worn out. And the new cap is bright blue, its fine.

Infact, the cap isnt visible in these photos. I took a photo of the coil in the old cap because I saw the rust/crack on one edge.
Look, guys, Im sorry I dont know this off the top of my head., but if Im IN the distributor for a tune up, I would like to know if it needs service, replacement, or if its fine.

Before I know if my replacement parts work, I have to fix a bad ground that started on fire and I cant tell if it caused my truck to pop and not start, or if that accidentally hitting the gas too many times caused it to flood. But until the ground is fixed, which im picking up a new post and new ground wire, I wanted ot make sure I had nothing else to look into.

 

[Paladin]

That's what I've heard about skip white eBay ****, chinesium parts. But apparently it's not that bad.

When I did my engine build over a decade ago I purchased a Skip White HEI distributor and in all that time it hasn't missed a beat and has performed flawlessly. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another. Also bought numerous other items through his place in Kingsport and everything I have ever received from him has performed as advertised! Maybe I was just the LUCKY one. At the same time I have also bought name brand stuff and some of it turned out to be nothing but trash.

 

[82sbshortbed]

I bought mine for $55 because the one one there looked like ol girl's op pic. Hatzie did a very detailed post on how to rebuild it. Really well written too. But, it comes out cheaper than one from summit that's OEM for $300 or to rebuild.

If you're concerned about the one you got performs, then get a skip white distributor for $60-70 with lifetime warranty?

1 pull old ****** one

2 pull 1 cylinder to tdc on compression stroke

3 drop in new dizzy with rotor pointing to no1 post

4 connect wires in cw to firing order

You must be registered for see images attach

Then fire that bitch up and enjoy your new skip white distributor.

Hope this helps

 

[82sbshortbed]

Here ya go

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[AuroraGirl]

I quoted myself to try to help you with the same question you just asked in the post above this one, again.
Just like in the other thread you started about a tune up, you couldn't or didn't say "why" you thought it needed a tuneup. Now, what condition are you trying to fix or improve? That will determine if you need a new distributor. Or a used one, or a new part in the existing one....
If you have a problem with this one and have 5 used ones on the shelf, why not just pop it out and toss in another one? That takes like 10 minutes.

But first you have to answer what you're trying to fix.

TRUCKS RUNS OKAY.

HAS HISTORY RUNNING POORLY. TUNE UP BECAUSE ANTIQUE WIRES, FOULED PLUGS(INCORRECT PLUGS), UNKNOWN AGE, MILEAGE, OR HOURS SINCE PREVIOUS MAINTENANCE.

FIRST TIME REMOVING CAP, EVIDENCE OF RUST, WEAR, AND IT THUS SPARKS CURIOSITY TO THE POTENTIAL LIFESPAN LEFT OF DISTRIBUTOR.

IN ONES THOGUHTS, IS ANYTHING IN NEED OR REPAIR OR IS IT NORMAL?

ASSUMING REPAIR NEEDED: NEW, USED, REPAIR?

 

[AuroraGirl]

I will look into this skip white distributor, then perhaps shelf the current one and get a spare all fancied up for a backup. or something.
Eagle freedom man, thank you for not being demeaning, butrather happy to share your good experience.

 

[bedwards]

I'd clean it up (advance weights) and replace the normal wear parts (cap, Rotor, plug wires) and run with it. I have had bad experience with Chinesium ignition parts. The original is built to last.
Do not do more than clean and lube the springs and posts as they are calibrated to your distributor and engine.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I'd clean it up (advance weights) and replace the normal wear parts (cap, Rotor, plug wires) and run with it. I have had bad experience with Chinesium ignition parts. The original is built to last.
Do not do more than clean and lube the springs and posts as they are calibrated to your distributor and engine.

So what would be the best lube? Clean them on unit, blow out the debris? or can they be removed without upsetting calibration

thank you for coming in with your wisdom, im guessing you think everything else looks fine? The crack in the coil thing on top of the cap was my biggest concern, but if its not yours it should be ok

 

[MrMarty51]

You can tell if the distributor is functioning.
Remove it from the engine, place it in a vice, with the coil cover and the sparking plug wires removed, hook up a ground wire between the distributor and a battery neg terminal, then, hook a wire between the distributor + terminal and the battery +, now, spin the shaft by hand, there should be johnny lightening bolt sparks between the spark plug wire terminals and the steel cored around the coil.
I usually clean the rusty fly weights with some 400 grit, if the pin holes aint all wallowed out, and, You might still be able to get a bushing/spring kit for them at the parts stores for cheap.

 

[Vbb199]

I will look into this skip white distributor, then perhaps shelf the current one and get a spare all fancied up for a backup. or something.
Eagle freedom man, thank you for not being demeaning, butrather happy to share your good experience.

Eagle freedom man loves you

@82sbshortbed

 

[AuroraGirl]

You can tell if the distributor is functioning.
Remove it from the engine, place it in a vice, with the coil cover and the sparking plug wires removed, hook up a ground wire between the distributor and a battery neg terminal, then, hook a wire between the distributor + terminal and the battery +, now, spin the shaft by hand, there should be johnny lightening bolt sparks between the spark plug wire terminals and the steel cored around the coil.
I usually clean the rusty fly weights with some 400 grit, if the pin holes aint all wallowed out, and, You might still be able to get a bushing/spring kit for them at the parts stores for cheap.

I mean, I researched and to my understanding sticky weights could cause my random holding at 1000 or more RPM that dont like to kick down? What do I lube it with?

 

[Grit dog]

WD40, PB blaster, kroil, silicone lube, graphite lube, open gear lube, motor oil, atf, vegetable oil, canola oil, peanut oil....
Take your pick. It’s not a dusty environment.
Honestly. Clean the whole thing up, blow it clean, little shot of WD or similar. It’s not wheel bearings or a camshaft, no heat, pressure, high speed, etc. All you’re doing is making it move a tiny bit easier.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Perfect. Ill use brass wire brush and CRC Power Lube(With PTFE) its a no stick dry lubricant(sprays on wet) that also clings to what is sprayed and water tight, too.

 

[bedwards]

Sorry, just getting back. Mine looked like that and I cleaned it with carb cleaner. Let that dry and put a drop of heavy grease on each spring post. Made sure the cap was clean inside and no signs of arcing. You need new plug wires for sure. I didn't see the crack your talking about. Its not expensive to get a new cap and rotor. You will have to swap the coil over to the new cap but that is pretty straight forward.