Header/Exhaust thoughts

[Old60Driver]

So, I've got a pretty significant exhaust manifold leak (#2, I can feel it lol), as well as an exhaust leak at the muffler itself. Looks like it might have been drug over a stump or something similar, the mufflers bent and crooked.

So....I'm thinking that if I'm going to go to the trouble of taking off the stock exhaust manifold, I was going to go back in with a set of ceramic headers, followed by true dual all the way out the back.
Something like this for the headers:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g9006-9

Nothing super fancy, but better than stock I think. I know that sometime in the future, I'll be doing at least a top end upgrade (heads, cam, intake and possibly a full rebuild), and figured I'd get some headers that would work with stock heads and later, the upgraded heads. Haven't made a decision on the heads yet, but figured I can't really go wrong with these headers, if I'm going to be changing out the exhaust manifold anyway.

Just thought I'd ask you folks for y'alls opinion before I pulled the trigger.

Thanks!

 

[82sbshortbed]

Got intake, cam and Lt hedders on my BBC and love it. You'll like those bolt ons too.

 

[hirschdalechevy]

I myself would not go with cheap headers , look at hedman elite heavy duty , .375 flange thickness, 14 gauge tubes, 15/8 tubes, ball and socket lower flange, etc... you will be better off in the long run.

 

[Big Chip]

I myself would not go with cheap headers , look at hedman elite heavy duty , .375 flange thickness, 14 gauge tubes, 15/8 tubes, ball and socket lower flange, etc... you will be better off in the long run.

x2

 

[Bextreme04]

I get what others are saying about not getting the cheap headers, but I got a set of the summit ceramic coated headers for my BBC and they are actually really good quality. They have a nice big thick flange and fit and finish seems comparable to the high end headers.

While they don't have the ball and socket flange, you can get a comparable connection using a set of header buddies. You can get those summit headers, a set of header buddies, summit exhaust builder pack, and mufflers for the cost of a set of those hedman elite headers by themselves. There isn't anything wrong with the hedmans, but personally it seems like just paying for the name at that price point, I'm also pretty sure the summit headers are made for them by one of the big header companies anyways and then rebranded as summit.

 

[shiftpro]

I advise newbie header folks to 'fit' the headers before you install them. Don't be afraid to hammer 'clearance dents' in the tubes. Also check if there is enough room to get an 8 point box end wrench on the header bolts. Sometimes a little clearance is needed in this spot. Of course use header bolts..

Check your wiring to the starter, it may need some rerouting. I use the stick on heat reflective tape around the starter nearest the header tubes. Motorcycle shops usually have this product.

I have noticed a 'coating shop' does a better job with ceramic coating than factory coating, but this may only be what I've seen and not reality. I do feel better 'clearancing" headers before they get coated, because the coating becomes compromised where dents have been dented. But that also serves up problems for me as I'm in small town BC and currently there are no coating shops nearby. In the past I have ordered headers from a speed shop in Calgary Alberta, and I had them deliver to a coating shop not far way. I made a deal with the coating shop to receive the headers, coat them and ship to me. They were happy to help and refused extra payment to do this. I did of course pay the shipping. It was nothing for them because they were shipping stuff everyday. Mind you I damaged the coating from my clearance dents.

 

[hirschdalechevy]

I get what others are saying about not getting the cheap headers, but I got a set of the summit ceramic coated headers for my BBC and they are actually really good quality. They have a nice big thick flange and fit and finish seems comparable to the high end headers.

While they don't have the ball and socket flange, you can get a comparable connection using a set of header buddies. You can get those summit headers, a set of header buddies, summit exhaust builder pack, and mufflers for the cost of a set of those hedman elite headers by themselves. There isn't anything wrong with the hedmans, but personally it seems like just paying for the name at that price point, I'm also pretty sure the summit headers are made for them by one of the big header companies anyways and then rebranded as summit.

I dont think you are paying for name when the summit small block headers are 18 gauge tubes at 1 1/2 inches and the hedman 's are 14 gauge tubes at 1 5/8 inches. The summit headers have a .313 flange and hedman's are .375 flange. So the hedman's are for sure way more header than the summit header , that's why they are more money. I have used the hedman's on three square body build's, (small block's) so far and never have had to take a hammer to them as well (for fitment) in all of my 4x4 applications, (auto trans. and manual trans.)

I am not bashing summit header's but you do get what you pay for most of the time. I myself don't like messing with exhaust problem's.

My opinion for the michael is that the hedman would be my choice over the summit header's, (he was looking at) and he said he may upgrade cam, heads etc... so the 1 5/8 tubes would be my choice over the summit's 1 1/2 tubes.

Just my 2 cents, happy shopping!!!!!!!

 

[Frankenchevy]

I had to dent my hedman elites and shave the frame on my k30. And yes, the ‘black maxx’ ceramic coating did chip off where denting was necessary.

I do wonder about 1-1/2” vs 1-5/8” primaries on a SBC, considering Engine Masters smashed some headers into pancakes and the difference in power was negligible. Having the 3/8” flange does make you feel better about potential warp/sealing problems.

 

[bucket]

Imho, flange thickness doesn't mean anything. Even the thin ones will seal fine if you use a quality gasket (copper or aluminum). The cheap paper type gaskets should never be used, no matter the thickness of flange.

But I do much prefer the larger primary tubing and heavier gauge that you get with a header like Hedman.

 

[Old60Driver]

Hey folks! I appreciate all the information folks. Research continues... lol

So, these exhaust manifolds have been on there, well, forever... When I do end up changing them out, what do y'all recommend to decrease my chances of snapping a bolt off in the head? I'm going to presoak with a penetrating oil for 24 hours or so. Other than that, just go easy on them I suppose. I've done lots of exhaust manifold gaskets, but they all been on late model stuff, and haven't been attached to the heads for the last 38 years or so. lol

Anyway, thanks again for all y'alls input, I'll definitely be referring back to this post, and posting updates as well!

 

[bucket]

Breaking off bolts in the head of a small block Chevy is something I've personally never found to be problematic. I've seen some 90's LT1's break some bolts on their own, but they were able to be unscrewed once the manifold was removed. If you have the horse corral looking manifolds, you may need a spreader tool to easily unthread the bolts, but with log type or ram's horn type, it's not needed.

 

[Rusty Nail]

2.5 inch pipe.
Use a crossover "H" pipe to connect both sides after the transmission.

Full length.

I have a pair of headers that were JET-HOT coated I/O , in 1994. I don't think the car will last another 27+ years but the headers might, just sayin. Dynomax, Hedman, nothin special.

Jet-Hot High Performance Coat
(405) 789-2888
https://maps.app.goo.gl/5BHZReq8GkkRFVkt9

 

[Raider L]

Ceramic coated headers do work as far as reducing engine compartment temps. I was surprised when I got mine as how much less hot the engine bay was after driving around for a while with long drives down interstate to car shows. I would open the hood on purpose to see and I'll be dang it was cooler. Like you could stick your hand near the side of the engine and there seemed to be less of the area that was hot. So whatever you get do get the coated ones. Besides they look cool.

Yeah, these days you don't have to make hammer hits in areas around the upper suspension, or starter or whatever. Actually the ones that need that, today come with the dent already there. I've seen them. I told this guy, I said, "Hey man, your headers must have got damaged in shipping." He said, "No it comes that way for the steering shaft knuckle down there." Well you could've fooled me.

 

[Old60Driver]

Bit of an update!

So, my work schedule is...increasing. I'll be pushing 96 hours or so a week for the next three weeks. Needless to say, I'm not going to have a ton of time to tinker. I needed a solution for the leaky muffler and exhaust manifold, so I took her into a local fella and had him replace the stock muffler with a 40 Flowmaster. When we pulled the existing muffler out, she was puffed hard. I had had a couple of nasty backfires when I tried to start her up (before the carb rebuild and dizzy/wire/plug changeouts). I didn't realize how bad it was until we got her on the lift. Anyway, I'll be holding off on the header install for a month or so, until I get her back to Houston. Weirdly enough, my manifold leak, while it's still there, has lessened substantially, and the engine seems to run better. I'm guessing that 38 year old muffler may have had some blockage (either before or after the backfire).

Thanks for all y'alls help and input. I'll definitely be taking it all into consideration when I move to headers.

PS - Jesus, I forgot how good a SBC sounds with a 40 series FM on her backside. Damn, it's music to my ears....

G'nite y'all!

 

[Raider L]

I'll tell ya'll a story, I'll make it brief, about old mufflers. Shortly after buying the truck I have now back in '82 I was going to the lake one weekend towing my mother-in-laws old "Sketter" boat. I noticed that the further down the road we got the slower it seemed we were going until when I turned onto the last leg of the trip I could barely get the truck moving.

So I pulled over, got out and checked the engine, trans, and after checking fluids and all, everything checked out okay. I cranked the engine and was looking underneath I noticed there were some small rust holes in the muffler. Well that was the muffler that was on the truck when I bought it and it must not have been in very good shape because as I went to the back of the truck and reached down to feel the exhaust, there was hardly any coming out. Back then I only had one exhaust pipe and muffler on it. So I went in my tool box and got my small ball peen hammer out.

I went back and hit on the muffler. And when I hit the side of the muffler I could hear a bunch of stuff shuffling around inside of it. After hitting it a couple more times, thinking I might knock the stuff loose enough where the muffler would start working again, a small tear opened up near those little rusty holes, and rusty pieces fell out. So I hit it a little harder where those rust holes were and the whole side of the muffler caved in from the muffler being rotted out inside. It had got so bad the insides of the muffler had fallen apart in there and blocked the muffler. So I relieved that problem by bashing some big holes in the muffler and heard all kinds of exhaust coming out. I got back into the truck, put it in gear and acceleration was normalized, and we went on to the lake. Problem solved.

Of course a short while after we came back I got a new muffler and everything was fine.