Good engine blocks for a build

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BADAZ chevy guy

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So, I have the transmission (4L60) rebuilt so I have a driver once again. Now I need to start collecting parts for the new engine. This is for a 77 C10 short box. I'm torn between a 350 or a 383 but in either case I want to find a decent starter block. What block casting numbers do I need to avoid at all costs and which are ones to keep an eye out for? This is going to be a daily driver. So, the engine isn't going to see much, if any, racing. I just don't want to get her all together and find a puddle of oil from a major casting failure.
Thanks in advance.
 

Boone83K10

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you are going to get a lot of "opinions" and internet banter on this type of question.

People will scream to find a 010 block because they have more nickel content and are stronger...

Some will scream get a vortec block...

2 bolt vs 4 bolt debate...

really just find a good condition block and go from there. just be smart about the heads and cam and you will be fine.
 

BADAZ chevy guy

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I understand what you're saying. 101 vs. 020 and that's part of what I'm asking. I do know to stay away from blocks marked "hecho en Mexico" but what about 1st gen blocks made here?
 

Don5

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What a loaded question. There are so many responses for it. I know that many are going weigh in here with their opinion so here is mine.

Since the engine is going in a 77 I would just look for a 350 block with the dipstick on the drivers side. That is what came on the truck so why change. Or just go with what you can find. Just make sure the block is gone over by a machine shop.
 

firebane

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.010 vs .020
2 bolt vs 4 bolt

Who cares.

There really hasn't been any solid evidence ever to say either of those are better than the other.
 

Skweegle89

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As a dd I don't think it matters. Just find a block that's not already been bored and you will be fine. Even these race guys around here quit looking for 010 blocks a long time ago because they cost too much and didn't make a difference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Lastwords

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If it's a daily I recommend an 87 or newer so you can install factory roller cam setup.
 

68post

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If it's a daily I recommend an 87 or newer so you can install factory roller cam setup.

I couldn't agree more, a late model block also has the one piece rear seal. A good used version of this era of engine alot of times will be a cheaper and easier rebuild. Cylinders that only require a hone and new rings, roller lifters that can be re-used , and vortec heads too.

Better stock compression, better heads, better cam & lifters, better mileage and power too.

This is what I'd do !
 

Dadof2

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Is there an easy way to identify an 87 or newer block if it is no longer in the vehicle? Our 89 suburban has 265K miles on it and I would like to find an engine, have it rebuilt, and put it in the suburban. It is still running fine right now, put I am driving close to 160 miles a day (4-6 days a week) and it isn't going to last forever.

BadAZ Chevy I hope you don't mind if I follow along on your thread vs. starting one of my own covering the exact same topic.
 

BADAZ chevy guy

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AAHHHHHH!!! My thread has been hijacked!!!!!! lol
It's a good dadof2. Just two weary sojourners on the same trail.
But if I see it first... IT"S MINE!!!
 

1984dually

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87 up will have one piece rear seal and should have center bolt valve covers. 87-about 91 trucks still had hyd flat tappet lifter. If looking at one of these make sure it has the bosses for the dogbones and spider(some didn't).
 

68post

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dogbones and spider???

Dogbones = the factory "paired lifter retainers" ( for lack of another better term), and Spider = their spring steel "keeper plate". All part of the factory roller cam/lifter system, just look for pics and it'll be clearer than mud.
 

chevyman82

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driver side oil dipstick 80 or older block passenger side oil dipstick 81 and newer. As for best block late 60s to early to mid 70s HP trumps all
 

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