Raider L
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2020
- Posts
- 1,892
- Reaction score
- 1,001
- Location
- Shreveport, LA
- First Name
- William
- Truck Year
- 1974
- Truck Model
- C10
- Engine Size
- 355
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So I have $600 soldering station at work. It's one of those all in one soldering units, with adjustable temp for the iron, and a built in heat gun for shrink wrap. Well we had guy working for us for a little while that already knew how to weld plastic, and one day he showed me how to do it. Also for example I plastic welded the strap on my face shield back together after it broke. It's just a thin band of plastic and it came back apart after using super glue. 1 1/2 later the welded band is still going strong. It's not I plastic weld every bit of broken plastic, but there is some structural parts that it works really well at.@SirRobyn0,
So what prompted your shop needing you to learn plastic welding instead of just gluing the parts together with some of that stuff I showed? The two part epoxy.
I feel like the plastic weld thing if its old plastic or just a certain kind in general would lead to spot thats strong yes, but the surrounding stuff could potentially split from it like that process may create a stress point dpeending on what it is or what its doing. Im sure you use it wisely and where needed tho, but at least epoxy exists where there would be any doubt. I used jb weld just yesterday on smooth plastic to a piece of scrap wood and the weak point now is probably the face of the wood LOL (like to try and pull them apart)@Raider L I've used super glue and keep a tube just about everywhere. I've never used quick grip but will keep it in mind. I remember at one time we use to have a two part super glue type product at the shop. It wasn't really an epoxy I don't think, it acted much more like a super version of super glue and would pretty much stick anything together for life. I no longer remember the products name and it doesn't really matter because it's been unavailable for years now.
A couple years ago a guy I use to work with taught me how to weld plastic with a soldering iron. It's really kind of an art form almost, you have to have some plastic just like the stuff your welding and , like welding metal, you have to melt in deep enough to get good penetration, hot enough to melt, but not so hot you burn the plastic, and fill with the correct plastic filler, or donor piece from the parts your welding together. Done right the welded part of the plastic will be stronger than the rest of the plastic. So these days I do a lot of plastic repair like that.
I don't disagree though I can't think of a plastic weld that I've had come apart, at least not since I was learning it. We keep JB weld on hand at the shop. I do find welding plastic tedious and time consuming if I have to do very much of it. But for another example you break a plastic clip off an interior piece and there is no room to JB weld the clip back on and super glue won't hold it. Plastic weld it. It doesn't have to (nor should it) replace other methods it's just another tool to put plastic back together with.I feel like the plastic weld thing if its old plastic or just a certain kind in general would lead to spot thats strong yes, but the surrounding stuff could potentially split from it like that process may create a stress point dpeending on what it is or what its doing. Im sure you use it wisely and where needed tho, but at least epoxy exists where there would be any doubt. I used jb weld just yesterday on smooth plastic to a piece of scrap wood and the weak point now is probably the face of the wood LOL (like to try and pull them apart)
JB weld does make a "plastic weld" too lol!I don't disagree though I can't think of a plastic weld that I've had come apart, at least not since I was learning it. We keep JB weld on hand at the shop. I do find welding plastic tedious and time consuming if I have to do very much of it. But for another example you break a plastic clip off an interior piece and there is no room to JB weld the clip back on and super glue won't hold it. Plastic weld it. It doesn't have to (nor should it) replace other methods it's just another tool to put plastic back together with.
I wouldn't want to plastic weld a hood back together, it would just be so time consuming IMO. For me at least it's small parts only. I've never used JB plastic weld that I can remember. The regular JB quick, we get in big tubes at the shop I think 10oz and it seems to do very well with plastic, but of course it looks gray.JB weld does make a "plastic weld" too lol!
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thats a picture of the accidental 4 ply(or was it 2 ply?) tire I put on and now it rides like a jackhammer
Buttttt, the point was I used "plastic weld" to piece together the hood that was in about 7 pieces and I wasnt going for a perfect look just serviceable and It did okayu, even sitting above a radiator and 26hp engine. But there is one spot I insufficiently covered and Need to over-correct so I can ignore it for more years
The jackhammering probably wasnt helping lol
yeah the plastic weld is clear with a hint of opaque maybe hint of yellow so its not an eye sore but I went over the thing with flat hvac duct metal tape, tad a glue to hold it best, then went over with build up primer, then john deere green. the upper hood piece is only the top part the lower hood was okay but i had to manuever with it attached to do the final parts to gether. Was a lot of clamps weights things etc. I Only had one little triangle piece evidently missing but I Just used the scrap chips off another couple and made it work.I wouldn't want to plastic weld a hood back together, it would just be so time consuming IMO. For me at least it's small parts only. I've never used JB plastic weld that I can remember. The regular JB quick, we get in big tubes at the shop I think 10oz and it seems to do very well with plastic, but of course it looks gray.
A little bondo and some actual JD paint and be as good as new.yeah the plastic weld is clear with a hint of opaque maybe hint of yellow so its not an eye sore but I went over the thing with flat hvac duct metal tape, tad a glue to hold it best, then went over with build up primer, then john deere green. the upper hood piece is only the top part the lower hood was okay but i had to manuever with it attached to do the final parts to gether. Was a lot of clamps weights things etc. I Only had one little triangle piece evidently missing but I Just used the scrap chips off another couple and made it work.
Doesnt even look baddYou must be registered for see images attach
you can see the foreground the tape
the tape was to provide a small amount of "Fishplate" type of support, its not a fishplate in the sense its not bolted or welded, so there is probably another word, but that I figured was surface area where the tape has tensile strength and kinda can hold some of the force off the worst/heaviest/more issue prone area and also to improve the looks because it looked god awful lol. I could have probably went across it another direction and made it better looking yet but I was good with it. the primer did a lot too. then i ran out so we switched to painting
I mean its not JD brand JD but its KrylonA little bondo and some actual JD paint and be as good as new.
What You did do there looks good as is.
I don't know the answer to that, I've never worked in autobody. With plastic body panels around here all I hear about is body shops replacing them. I would think in many cases the cost in labor to weld a plastic panel would exceed cost of replacement.@SirRobyn0,
I wonder what shops use the actual "plastic welding", like the video I watched, method to do repairs? And what would be the charge for the tech doing it, hours? Would they explain to the customer what they did? Or just tell them, "Here you go, it's fixed."?