Fuel Selector Valve - 1 wire > 6 wire

[Kasey 1977 K10]

My mechanic and I are having some problems with switching to the Sniper EFI. We have to change the 3 port fuel selector valve to a 6 port fuel selector valve. As you may know the 6 port 1 wire selector valves are hard to find. We want to minimize electrical changes so are trying to find a way to utilize the 6 wire valve without rewiring everything. I found a post (link below) where a guy used a double pole relay to bridge that gap. Only used the current one wire and added a constant. Do you feel this is a viable approach? Have any of you tried to accomplish something similar? If so do you have any details on the relay to use and the wiring diagram for it? Any other ideas or suggestions? Any information is greatly appreciated.

http://www.barthmobile.com/eve/foru...31087061&m=4303955787&r=6213934197#6213934197

 

[chengny]

Parts Voice shows these two vendors have the correct valve in stock (single terminal 6 port - P/N 467513). Don't get your hopes up though, who knows when they last updated their inventories:

Dan's Obsolete Gm Parts
Chinook, MT 59523
406-357-2615
Shows 11 in stock


Craig Motors -Napa Gm
Napa, CA 94559
800-224-8111
Shows 1 in stock

 

[Kasey 1977 K10]

Parts Voice shows these two vendors have the correct valve in stock (single terminal 6 port - P/N 467513). Don't get your hopes up though, who knows when they last updated their inventories:

Dan's Obsolete Gm Parts
Chinook, MT 59523
406-357-2615
Shows 11 in stock


Craig Motors -Napa Gm
Napa, CA 94559
800-224-8111
Shows 1 in stock

I tried Dan's earlier this week with no luck. Just called Craig Motors and they want $566.18. Thanks for the leads though!

 

[chengny]

I tried Dan's earlier this week with no luck. Just called Craig Motors and they want $566.18. Thanks for the leads though!

Yeah really, talk about price gouging. There is one on ebay. He wants $350 plus - get this - $100 for shipping!

In the event that you do decide to hit the salvage yards, see the list of target vehicles below. Just as info, the 467511 valve is a single terminal but with only 3 ports.

T.H. = Turbo Hydra-Matic transmission (both the 350 & 400):

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[chengny]

You know, I was just looking at the wiring diagrams. Although they operate in completely different ways, both types (solenoid & motorized) of valve/sender set-ups only utilize 3 wires from the dash to the tanks/valve.

The old system ran two leads back to the senders (one for each tank) all the way from the dash switch. Gas gauge indication was changed at the dash switch.

The newer system only used one lead for the gas gauge - running from the dash to the valve. When the valve internals were shifted a set of contacts within the valve head also switched the tank that would show on the gas gauge.

The point is, you have enough leads (3) running from the dash to the valve to use a 5 terminal motorized transfer valve. As I'm sure you know those are all over the place and fairly inexpensive.

You would have to get the correct switch and wire it like the newer circuit (because the motorized valve isn't grounded, you would need to have a ground connection to the switch - in addition to the hot wire).

You must be registered for see images attach

Since the new type of valve only requires one lead for gas gauge indication, that enables you to use the other sender lead to provide the reverse polarity for switching the valve.

So the tan lead goes straight to the valve for common gas gauge indication.

The LT BLU - that formerly went to the LH sender for gas gauge indication - is now the power to switch to one tank

And the LT GRN is the power to switch to the other tank

You will need to run two pigtails from the valve to each individual tank sender for tank level indication.

I am not very articulate this evening. Maybe the dwgs below will make what I am trying to say clearer:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

I don't know if you can buy a harness connector for the 5 terminal Pollak valve, but if you can find one it would make the wiring job much easier

 

[Obwonkonobe]

Have you looked at any yards? It may not be the safest bet but that's where I found mine, or you can use 2 of the 3 ports if it come to it. But i just pulled one from a crew cab, checked it with my battery and listened for the solanoid to click, then bought it for a couple bucks

 

[Kasey 1977 K10]

A good Samaritan here on this forum had an extra and is shipping it to me! Faith in humanity restored.

 

[Kasey 1977 K10]

I was lucky enough to get a used valve from my new friend Perry (idahovette) but for those of you that aren't as lucky I found a really good post about a workable option without having to change your selector switch. If you are in the same boat as me its worth a look. He updated it today with additional details about viable relay options and wiring diagrams.

http://www.barthmobile.com/eve/foru...31087061&m=4303955787&r=6213934197#6213934197

 

[SquareRoot]

I used a Edelbrock remote sump in the d/s headlight area on my Sniper setup. Tee'd the vent into the fuel tank to cannister line and done! Didn't have to mess with any of the stock dual tank system. Runs great.