Fuel pump pushrod won’t slide into block

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Catbox

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This is about the simplest electric fuel pump I have used.
Puts out 6psi and can be regulated down lower with an external regulator.
They are common to put on air cooled VW's as an upgrade.

Carter Electric Fuel Pump P60430​


Currently you can get them off Amazon for $31.
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iamtherealJayy

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For that pump would I need a relay or could I just run it to ignition? I have some relays left over from my ls swap. I’d like to get this blazer running sooner than later and hope everything else works out fine. Gotta get a belt and make the gauges work
 

Bextreme04

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For that pump would I need a relay or could I just run it to ignition? I have some relays left over from my ls swap. I’d like to get this blazer running sooner than later and hope everything else works out fine. Gotta get a belt and make the gauges work
Always use a relay. You don't have anything ignition switch related that can handle a 10 amp continuous draw in addition to whatever it is already doing.
 

iamtherealJayy

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Should I use input as just an ignition or while cranking aswell? When I got it they had it on the firewall tapped into dist wire.
 

squaredeal91

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What year is the rig? Was it originally TBI?
 

iamtherealJayy

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83, originally a 6.2 diesel. Previous owner broke the crank, drove home, built a 350, dropped in and was in the process of working out bugs when he traded it to a buddy who neglected it and so he figured it was too far gone listed it for sale I traded my one ton for it.
 

squaredeal91

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Copy that. I was wondering because if it was tbi than in theory it would have wires back on frame to tap into with a relay plug in the engine bay.
 

iamtherealJayy

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I’ll look into throwing that carter pump on, is it safe to just mount on the frame rail?
 

Catbox

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I would say yes, put it on the frame rail close to the tank for reasons already stated.

Use a relay and give it all the juice it wants that way.

You can also run one of these.
We have one on our VW bug for the pump.
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iamtherealJayy

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I’ve got relays from my ls swap, what gauge wire do I need to run to the pump? I can run small from ignition to relay for a signal but what size do I need from 12v to relay and relay to pump?
 

mxer147

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I have a 880 block in my k20, didn’t have the tunnel machined through the casting for mechanical fuel pump. I installed a Carter electric pump which failed with less than a 25 miles on it over a couple of years. The Carter pump was unserviceable so I threw away $125. I believe it failed because of ethanol fuel resulting from gettin old. I recently installed a Holley red pump since it’s serviceable but it sure is noisy. I mounted on the frame just below your feet under the cab, passenger side. It works as designed but is very noisy so much so I don’t consider it a long term solution. I don’t drive this much so it’s good for now. Also, I will only use non ethanol oxygen fuel in this truck, 100% gas only, like I do in all my small engines that aren’t used frequently. I also had to dismantle and thoroughly clean the edelbrock carb as well. I also installed the proper micron fuel filters on either side of the pump.
 
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squaredeal91

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Those holleys are noisy but good. Have an old one on my yellow truck. As far as wire gage goes I wouldn't use any smaller than what the relay is.
 

iamtherealJayy

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Pump came in, temp installed it outside of the frame rail since there’s only a 3” chunk of rubber line between the tank and frame. I just added longer and put it there. The pump fills the filter right before the carb maybe half way? And the engine won’t start unless I give it a dribble of fuel. Once it’s running I let it run for probably 15 minutes. Put it in gear, it stalled and just cranked and cranked and cranked. Accelerator pump is spritzing fuel, I’ve pumped repeatedly, held it to the floor, nothing just cranking. Dribble a couple drops of fuel and it fired right up.
 

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