Fuel gauge and valve questions

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Dmack

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2019
Posts
342
Reaction score
449
Location
Central OR
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
Hello all,

I have been trying to troubleshoot my system to get my gauge to work.

I have an 83 K20 with dual tanks. I have sender readings at both the A and C connections on the weather pack connector. When I plug it into the pollack valve, I don't have a reading at the B wire to the gauge. I have cycled the switch with the key in the on position and still nothing.

I have confirmed that the switch has power at the dash, and that it reverses polarity at the weather pack to the valve.

I have plugged in another pollack valve into the connector (spare used pollack valve) with the same results.

The wire from the B terminal to the gauge was cut under the firewall when I got the truck and I have been working my way from tank valve forward.

My initial assumption was that the switch inside the valve was shot, but I am questioning that when I have the same result on two different, albeit used, valves.

Am I missing something or do I need to get a new pollack valve?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
 

C10MixMaster

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2016
Posts
756
Reaction score
1,428
Location
Kingman AZ
First Name
Ben
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C10 BIG10
Engine Size
ZZ4 350
Hello all,

I have been trying to troubleshoot my system to get my gauge to work.

I have an 83 K20 with dual tanks. I have sender readings at both the A and C connections on the weather pack connector. When I plug it into the pollack valve, I don't have a reading at the B wire to the gauge. I have cycled the switch with the key in the on position and still nothing.

I have confirmed that the switch has power at the dash, and that it reverses polarity at the weather pack to the valve.

I have plugged in another pollack valve into the connector (spare used pollack valve) with the same results.

The wire from the B terminal to the gauge was cut under the firewall when I got the truck and I have been working my way from tank valve forward.

My initial assumption was that the switch inside the valve was shot, but I am questioning that when I have the same result on two different, albeit used, valves.

Am I missing something or do I need to get a new pollack valve?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.


If you suspect the valve , disconnect it and run a jumper wire between a-b then c-b , also check the weather pack connector to see if the b terminal is damaged, Tug on the B wire see if it pulls lose from the connector.
 

Dmack

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2019
Posts
342
Reaction score
449
Location
Central OR
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
If you suspect the valve , disconnect it and run a jumper wire between a-b then c-b , also check the weather pack connector to see if the b terminal is damaged, Tug on the B wire see if it pulls lose from the connector.


Thanks for the suggestions. I have continuity from the weather pack to the firewall through the gauge wire. I'm not sure if I will accomplish anything jumping a or C to the B terminal. It should be switched inside the valve, at least my understanding is that when it switches tanks, it will also switch the sender signal to the gauge, but I will try it.
 

Dmack

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2019
Posts
342
Reaction score
449
Location
Central OR
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
I probably got myself all screwed up. But your wire to the gauge from the switch is good correct?

This thread might help... https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/dual-tank-operation.20921/

thanks for the help. I'm not hooked up to the gauge yet as I'm working my way forward from the switch to the valve and then the gauge. The switch is working, but I can get the sender ohm reading through the valve. Normally I would conclude a bad valve, but since I'm having the same problem with two different valves, I want to make sure I'm not missing something obvious before buying another.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
44,424
Posts
957,555
Members
36,777
Latest member
paulteigrob
Top