Front spring question

[ChuckN]

I don’t recall- I know that the lower control arm has a “pocket” for the end of the spring to sit into- I don’t remember the upper perch having the same but can anyone confirm?

The reason I’m asking is that my truck after lowering has always had a bit of a 1/2” or so lean toward the driver side. I’d initially thought that the reason the passenger rear was up a tad was because something was off in the rear flip kit, but I got to looking and I’m certain it’s because the front left corner is sitting a little low.

So I need to double check that the passenger front isn’t shoving the front end over toward the driver side. I’m certain I checked all that out when I did the front suspension, but just want to make sure the front end is right. More than anything, I suspect poor quality front lowering springs.

Thanks in advance,
Chad

Edit- I’ll tag @bluex here too.

 

[Grit dog]

Ya tough call. If the truck is otherwise straight then you could put a little coil spacer in the saggy side and see how it looks. 1/2” ain’t much if it drives good. Should still be fine with a smidge of lift?
I like cheap simple solutions.

 

[Ricko1966]

Ya tough call. If the truck is otherwise straight then you could put a little coil spacer in the saggy side and see how it looks. 1/2” ain’t much if it drives good. Should still be fine with a smidge of lift?
I like cheap simple solutions.

Or he could get a fat passenger. Just thinking out loud here.

 

[ChuckN]

Ya tough call. If the truck is otherwise straight then you could put a little coil spacer in the saggy side and see how it looks. 1/2” ain’t much if it drives good. Should still be fine with a smidge of lift?
I like cheap simple solutions.

You’re speaking my language. I just got a 3/8” spacer off scamazon, which by all reports means roughly translated .75” correction, and theoretically would be completely level once I get my 165 lb frame in the driver side. I’ll check to make sure the springs are seated all the way into the pockets first.

Truth be told, I wouldn’t even have noticed if the bigger wheels that sit closer to the fender lips hadn’t made it plainly obvious. But now that I’ve seen it, I can’t unsee it. It’s likely my OCD, I’m sure no one else would give it a second glance.

 

[ChuckN]

Or he could get a fat passenger. Just thinking out loud here.

Hey, don’t talk about my wife like that.

 

[TotalyHucked]

I'm the same way, my truck sits ~3/8"-1/2" lower on the pass side front, just cuz I didn't cut the springs the same and have never fixed it lol.

But to answer your question, the LCA has a pocket for the coil spring's tail to sit in. The top bucket on the frame has a D shape with a flange that the top of the spring (the skinnier/smaller wound end) locates on. It's a loose fit up there but it is possible to have the spring sitting in there crooked and be stuck on the flange. I did that just a couple weeks ago on a truck we're building and had to take it all apart after I realized.

 

[ChuckN]

I'm the same way, my truck sits ~3/8"-1/2" lower on the pass side front, just cuz I didn't cut the springs the same and have never fixed it lol.

But to answer your question, the LCA has a pocket for the coil spring's tail to sit in. The top bucket on the frame has a D shape with a flange that the top of the spring (the skinnier/smaller wound end) locates on. It's a loose fit up there but it is possible to have the spring sitting in there crooked and be stuck on the flange. I did that just a couple weeks ago on a truck we're building and had to take it all apart after I realized.

Good to know. It’s hard to see up in there with the spring still in.

I tried to get the lower ball joint out this afternoon, but it won’t pop out seemingly without ruining the ball joint pressed into the tubular LCA. I tried a good amount of heat, all the tricks but it’s really in there. I managed to sneak a portion of the coil spring spacer underneath it since there is some wiggle room, just maddeningly not enough to get the full circle of it in there.

The difference is just highlighted because the wheels are so much closer to the fender lips. Truth be told, I’m not sure I’m keeping the Halibrands so it may not be an issue.

 

[bluex]

Huck got most of your questions answered it seems.

If you pay attention at shows all these trucks lean one way or another. Just try not to let it bother you. Most people don't measure before or notice but they lean before you lower them too. Its just more noticeable after because like you said, the tire is closer to the fender now.

Your fixes are a spacer on the low side, trim the spring on the high side, or bag it with height sensors lol.

 

[Ricko1966]

Huck got most of your questions answered it seems.

If you pay attention at shows all these trucks lean one way or another. Just try not to let it bother you. Most people don't measure before or notice but they lean before you lower them too. Its just more noticeable after because like you said, the tire is closer to the fender now.

Your fixes are a spacer on the low side, trim the spring on the high side, or bag it with height sensors lol.

Or a fat passenger. Everybody leaves that one out.

 

[Ricko1966]

Good to know. It’s hard to see up in there with the spring still in.

I tried to get the lower ball joint out this afternoon, but it won’t pop out seemingly without ruining the ball joint pressed into the tubular LCA. I tried a good amount of heat, all the tricks but it’s really in there. I managed to sneak a portion of the coil spring spacer underneath it since there is some wiggle room, just maddeningly not enough to get the full circle of it in there.

The difference is just highlighted because the wheels are so much closer to the fender lips. Truth be told, I’m not sure I’m keeping the Halibrands so it may not be an issue.

I'd try 2 bolts screwed into a coupling nut. Use them as a wedge to push on the lower ball joint stud leave the ball joint nut on but back way off. Unscrew the bolts from the coupling nut putting pressure on the ball joint stud,then smack the side of the steering knuckle with a hammer,right next to where the ball joint stud goes into the knuckle.

 

[ChuckN]

I'd try 2 bolts screwed into a coupling nut. Use them as a wedge to push on the lower ball joint stud leave the ball joint nut on but back way off. Unscrew the bolts from the coupling nuts putting pressure on the ball joint stud,then smack the side of the steering knuckle with a hammer,right next to where the ball joint stud goes into the knuckle.

I’ll run to the hardware store and talk to the guys. They have rows of stuff there. I’m sure they can help me out something together. Thanks!

 

[TotalyHucked]

Huck got most of your questions answered it seems.

If you pay attention at shows all these trucks lean one way or another. Just try not to let it bother you. Most people don't measure before or notice but they lean before you lower them too. Its just more noticeable after because like you said, the tire is closer to the fender now.

Your fixes are a spacer on the low side, trim the spring on the high side, or bag it with height sensors lol.

^This. The only trucks that are dead nuts level are on coilovers since they have easy, minute adjustability. That's one thing I love about 4x4 NBS trucks, I can make small adjustments with the torsion bars to get it within 1/4" on all 4 corners. Just gotta tell the alignment guy not to touch the bars unless absolutely necessary lol

 

[bluex]

I'd try 2 bolts screwed into a coupling nut. Use them as a wedge to push on the lower ball joint stud leave the ball joint nut on but back way off. Unscrew the bolts from the coupling nut putting pressure on the ball joint stud,then smack the side of the steering knuckle with a hammer,right next to where the ball joint stud goes into the knuckle.

This, i have an old piece of shaft that I got from the scrap barrel at work. Drilled it to fit some M12 bolts (that's what we had in 12.9 lol) I use that with a bolt on both sides. Get it tight, hold the head of one bolt an tighten the nut. It will usually pop them without a hammer. I think 2 times maybe I've needed the hammer. All the pieces will go flying when it pops though lol.

Whatever you use make sure it's good quality grade 8 or equivalent.