Front end lowered problem

[DarthKnight84]

Evening all. I just finished the front end part of my 5/7 drop on my 84 c10. Aside from having to shave off some material from the western chassis spindles and waiting a call back as to why their shocks don’t line up with their tubular control arms all went well until I had to move it. The left front tire is rubbing considerably, the right has about half an inch clearance from tire to fender.
1 any ideas what is causing the tire rub on the left side?
2 is the half an inch clearance enough on the right side.

Ps this is my first major drop (did a 2/4 on my old 2005 Dodge Ram) sorry if the question is remedial.


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[Rusty Nail]

*crickets*


Hi, welcome to the internet!

Pictures are the coin of the land, so PAY UP!

 

[DarthKnight84]

*crickets*


Hi, welcome to the internet!

Pictures are the coin of the land, so PAY UP!

Too easy. I’ll post them first thing in the morning.


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[bluex]

What part of the fender is it rubbing on?

 

[DarthKnight84]

What part of the fender is it rubbing on?

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[CSFJ]

Looks almost as if it needs some camber correction.

 

[bluex]

Some negative camber could help amd you can roll your fenders.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Yep, you're gonna need an aluminum baseball bat...roll it against the tire that way until you has clearance, Clarence .

Then we're gonna require moar pix...of course!

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[smoothandlow84]

Too much positive camber and your wheels offset may be too much. What size tires ? With that much front end drop back when my 84 was static dropped 5 front, 7 rear....I had 285x45r20 tires without contact unless full compression of the suspension cycle. You can expect problems with inner fender clearance having that much sidewall on your wheels with that amount of drop in front. You can also as previously suggested roll the inmer fender. Instead of rolling my inner fenders, I used a body hammer and dolly to add fender clearance for the sidewalls.


I would also suggest cutting off your lower bumpstops AND metal brackets as well. You may also,want to replace the rubber lower bumps with polyurethane units. You can simply drill a mounting hole on the lower control arm, mount the poly bumpstop and cut it to the desired contact height for maximum down travel without metal to metal contact. The "adjustable " poly bumpstops are available online or at autozone/O'Reilly auto parts. I used a hacksaw to cut my bumpstops to the desired height.

 

[DarthKnight84]

Looks almost as if it needs some camber correction.

I took two shims out from behind of each side of that wheel’s upper control arm and it didn’t help.


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[DarthKnight84]

Too much positive camber and your wheels offset may be too much. What size tires ? With that much front end drop back when my 84 was static dropped 5 front, 7 rear....I had 285x45r20 tires without contact unless full compression of the suspension cycle. You can expect problems with inner fender clearance having that much sidewall on your wheels with that amount of drop in front. You can also as previously suggested roll the inmer fender. Instead of rolling my inner fenders, I used a body hammer and dolly to add fender clearance for the sidewalls.


I would also suggest cutting off your lower bumpstops AND metal brackets as well. You may also,want to replace the rubber lower bumps with polyurethane units. You can simply drill a mounting hole on the lower control arm, mount the poly bumpstop and cut it to the desired contact height for maximum down travel without metal to metal contact. The "adjustable " poly bumpstops are available online or at autozone/O'Reilly auto parts. I used a hacksaw to cut my bumpstops to the desired height.

I’m running the stock rims and new upper and lower tubular control arms. Still cut off the bumper stops? I can actually unbolt these. Tires say 30x9.5. A little too tall I’ve been informed. They’re old so I need new tires anyway.


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[DarthKnight84]

Yep, you're gonna need an aluminum baseball bat...roll it against the tire that way until you has clearance, Clarence .

Then we're gonna require moar pix...of course!

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

What other pics would help? Thinking of cutting the inner lip of the outer fender.


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[smoothandlow84]

I’m running the stock rims and new upper and lower tubular control arms. Still cut off the bumper stops? I can actually unbolt these. Tires say 30x9.5. A little too tall I’ve been informed. They’re old so I need new tires anyway.


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The geometry of the upper and or lower control arms might be an issue if not made to specs. If aligned and still not corrected something might be not made correctly. I have had issue before on builds uaing replacement tubular arms. Who manufactured the arms? Why did you opt to replace the arms? The oem arms will work with that amount of drop unless you want to narrow the track width and have more camber adjustability. I was unawars that your drop consisted of tubular control arms. When I mentioned cutting and swapping out the bumps, that was referring to oem parts. Pics of the upper and lower control arms and the setup would be helpful so that we can all grasp better what is going on here.

In regards to cutting the inner lip of the inner fender, some people have also done that to "massage" the amount of clearance needed. I removed my front inner fenders and fabricated new ones for the cleance needed. I went from a 5 inch front droo to full air ride a year later (which led to moving the heat/ac fan higher up on the firewall and moving the battery and overflow tank among othe things). One thing about altering a vehicle by lowering the stance is at some point mods include trimmimg and cutting and moving alot of other items for cleance in order to achieve clearance. Stock wheels will limit you with clearance and the backspacing of the oem wheels leads many to modification of the lower control arm (which I am not a fan of cutting off the reinforced edge of control arms unless it is done along with gussets). If you went with Djm control arms.......that is the issue. DJM over the years is lacking in quality control and several people have had serious issues with all of what they manufacture. With control arms, you really do get what you pay for unfortunately. Unless the parts are made in the U.S., you are taking a gamble with quality control.

Show a few pics of the control arms from a front view (of course you will have to jack up the front end). You may also want to include a pic of he suspension from the front and siide with the tire removed

 

[DarthKnight84]

The geometry of the upper and or lower control arms might be an issue if not made to specs. If aligned and still not corrected something might be not made correctly. I have had issue before on builds uaing replacement tubular arms. Who manufactured the arms? Why did you opt to replace the arms? The oem arms will work with that amount of drop unless you want to narrow the track width and have more camber adjustability. I was unawars that your drop consisted of tubular control arms. When I mentioned cutting and swapping out the bumps, that was referring to oem parts. Pics of the upper and lower control arms and the setup would be helpful so that we can all grasp better what is going on here.

In regards to cutting the inner lipmof the inner fender, some people have also done that to "massage" the amount of clearance needed. One thing about altering a vehicle by lowering the stance is at some point mods include trimmimg and cutting. Stock wheels will limit you with clearance and the backspacing of the oem wheels leads many to modification of the lower control arm (which I am not a fan of cutting off the reinforced edge of control arms unless it is done along with gussets). If you went with Djm control arms.......that is the issue. DJM over the years is lacking in quality control and several people have had serious issues with all of what they manufacture.

Show a few pics of the control arms from a front view (of course you will have to jack up the front end). You may also want to include a pic of he suspension from the front and siide with the tire removed

I bought western chassis’ 5/7 drop kit and then paid for their tubular control arms. I bought the arms for two reasons, I didn’t want to deal with fighting the bushings in the originals when trying to replace them and I read several times tubular was the way to go with lowered trucks because the front lip on the oem bottoms out and starts to peel back or split.

I haven’t had it aligned yet, I am waiting until the correct lower control arms come in (the pair they sent me, doesn’t allow the shock to line up correctly with the lower mount) and my flip kit and c notch installed.

Pictures will come in the next few days as I’ve started my c notch and flip kit on the rear while I wait for the front to be sorted out. Thanks for the responses everyone!


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[smoothandlow84]

I bought western chassis’ 5/7 drop kit and then paid for their tubular control arms. I bought the arms for two reasons, I didn’t want to deal with fighting the bushings in the originals when trying to replace them and I read several times tubular was the way to go with lowered trucks because the front lip on the oem bottoms out and starts to peel back or split.

I haven’t had it aligned yet, I am waiting until the correct lower control arms come in (the pair they sent me, doesn’t allow the shock to line up correctly with the lower mount) and my flip kit and c notch installed.

Pictures will come in the next few days as I’ve started my c notch and flip kit on the rear while I wait for the front to be sorted out. Thanks for the responses everyone!


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Hmmm. In all the years of lowering truck and cars, I have never heard that issue before using oem control arms. My 84 is bagged, lays out the engine cross member and I have the oem arms without any issues. If you have tube upper arms and oem lowers, that may explain why you already have cleanace issues as well as the camber out. Not being aligned also adds to the clearance issues at the moment. All of the parts need to be installed, alignment has to be done before going further with making or needing more clearance on the fenders.