Fwiw I put more directions like stuff I remembered after the first post so read them all carefully. Ask questions if you need to. I change control arms steering racks bushings ball joints anything and everything.Caster will not wear out tires, camber and toe will. Toe is actually the most important,there's even a saying among guys on the alignment rack( set the toe and let it go).On somethingbthats too worn to do right. Anyways caster can cause pull left or right or instability at speed. If you set camber carefully and toe carefully,if the cars stable and doesn't pull no need for an alignment shop or a caster sweep. Yep buck is right we bounce the front end up and down to settle the suspension and recheck toe..If you use the string box method center the steering wheel before you set toe and your wheel will be straight. Some one else mentioned it I'll explain it a little bit. If the steering wheel isn't centered loosen the sleeve clamps and go for a drive pull over lengthen 1 side 1/2 turn shorten the other side 1/2 turn repeat as necessary,as long as you
move them both equal turns your to will still be good. One last little tip bit get as close as you can with what yoi have to work with you will be just fine. When we do them on the machine it doesn't say get it exactly this spec. It is this spec plus or minus a certain amount,very rarely are you going to get an alignment anywhere that's dead nuts on spec. If it's in the green it's done. Look at what I and others have written and look at your tires from the tires point of view,if they are sitting flat with the ground not angled in or out at the top and bottom and pointed straight ahead toed in just a smidgen so they straighten out going down the road your tires will be happy.