Front Drive Shaft Bolts

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McCSquare

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If yours is an 87 V10, I have this from an 87 V10 laying in my backyard. 700r4/NP208. I bet I can find out for sure in daylight.

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That looks like just like it.
 

HotRodPC

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Just saw your post. I think this is what I'm going to do. I don't see how there can exist a bolt that will actually thread into this thing. There isn't anything I can get my hands on between a 3/8" and M10.

If you do, like I suggested above, I'd use RED Loctite. I know it's a bitch to take off if need to later on, but I've heard of front driveshaft stealing being a bit common. Make yours tougher than the rest so they'll move on and not get yours. I fully intend to use Red so that someone walking parking lots with hand tools won't get mine.


Just ask Mr Clean. His got stolen in a Movie theater parking lot. Cops even hit the guy up as they patrolled, the guy said his front axle was messed up so he was having to pull the driveshaft to be able to get it home. Isn't that some ****?
 

89Suburban

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3/8" NC thread with a 9/16" socket head last I recall?? :shrug:
 

HotRodPC

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That looks like just like it.

I think I have a thread pitch gauge in my Tap and Die set. I'll try to pull one and see what I can figure out. Hopefully tomorrow in daylight. If I forget, hit me up by PM or bump this thread and remind me when I visit my subscribed threads.
 

McCSquare

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I think I have a thread pitch gauge in my Tap and Die set. I'll try to pull one and see what I can figure out. Hopefully tomorrow in daylight. If I forget, hit me up by PM or bump this thread and remind me when I visit my subscribed threads.

Thanks for checking. I honestly have been thinking about it... I would bet that the previous owner messed up these threads somehow. The last owner doing somethin' stupid has been the explanation for about 90% of my headaches.

Based on what I've tried so far:

3/8" = 0.3750" = 9.5250mm -- Too small
M10 = .393701" = 10.00mm -- Too big
7/16" = 0.4375" = 11.112mm

I'm guessing its just jacked/ruined formerly 3/8" threads. :emotions133:
 

HotRodPC

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Thanks for checking. I honestly have been thinking about it... I would bet that the previous owner messed up these threads somehow. The last owner doing somethin' stupid has been the explanation for about 90% of my headaches.

Based on what I've tried so far:

3/8" = 0.3750" = 9.5250mm -- Too small
M10 = .393701" = 10.00mm -- Too big
7/16" = 0.4375" = 11.112mm

I'm guessing its just jacked/ruined formerly 3/8" threads. :emotions133:

Could be. You don't have a Tap and Die set you can chase the thread and clean them up? Got a Harbor Freight nearby? They have a cheap SAE Tap and Die set go on sale all the time, actually your choice of SAE or Metric for like $14 IIRC and it works well for light to medium duty stuff.

HF Item #39391 SAE $15.99 Right now.
HF Item #39384 Metric $15.99 Right now.
 

MrMarty51

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I recently had one of those apart but I can not rememer what size they wuz.
Quit laughing You young whippersnappers or I`ll whack Yuh wit Mee cain,if I could rememr where I putit.
 
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McCSquare

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Could be. You don't have a Tap and Die set you can chase the thread and clean them up? Got a Harbor Freight nearby? They have a cheap SAE Tap and Die set go on sale all the time, actually your choice of SAE or Metric for like $14 IIRC and it works well for light to medium duty stuff.

HF Item #39391 SAE $15.99 Right now.
HF Item #39384 Metric $15.99 Right now.

I've been meaning to make another trip out there. Tap and Die sets have been on my list for awhile but I always forget to snag a set.
 

chengny

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A preferred alternative to using a nutted bolt: increase the bolt size to the next fractional diameter and tap the flange accordingly.

If your stock bolts (3/8") are loose due to lost steel in the female threads, it's easy and cheap to drill and tap them for a 7/16" bolt.

Just going by how you decribe the fit of new 3/8 -16 bolts which have a major diameter of .375, the major diameter of the female threads is probably somewhere around .380 - .385".

The diameter of the drill bit used to tap for a 7/16 - 20 NF bolt is 25/64" (about .390"). It might be close, but there should still be sufficient steel around the existing threads to tap 7/16 -20 holes - without having to go up to a 1/2" bolt.

The drilling will be easy, and a 7/16" NF tap & drill combo kit is only about $5. From Pep Boys - for example:

Kawasaki 7/16-20 Tap & Drill Combo
Part # mpn 840500 SKU: 9880113

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The end result will look professional and there will be minimal loss of strength in the flange.

NC bolts are okay, but you'll gain additional protection against backout if you use NF threads
 

McCSquare

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A preferred alternative to using a nutted bolt: increase the bolt size to the next fractional diameter and tap the flange accordingly.

If your stock bolts (3/8") are loose due to lost steel in the female threads, it's easy and cheap to drill and tap them for a 7/16" bolt.

Just going by how you decribe the fit of new 3/8 -16 bolts which have a major diameter of .375, the major diameter of the female threads is probably somewhere around .380 - .385".

The diameter of the drill bit used to tap for a 7/16 - 20 NF bolt is 25/64" (about .390"). It might be close, but there should still be sufficient steel around the existing threads to tap 7/16 -20 holes - without having to go up to a 1/2" bolt.

The drilling will be easy, and a 7/16" NF tap & drill combo kit is only about $5. From Pep Boys - for example:

Kawasaki 7/16-20 Tap & Drill Combo
Part # mpn 840500 SKU: 9880113

You must be registered for see images attach


The end result will look professional and there will be minimal loss of strength in the flange.

NC bolts are okay, but you'll gain additional protection against backout if you use NF threads

I already bolted the driveshaft up with 3/8"-16 x 1 1/2" Grade 8 Flanged Bolts with nuts on the back. Fits pretty well I don't think it'll be going anywhere.

I agree that your solution would be best, but I would need to remove the flange from the vehicle to ensure I drilled it correctly. I didn't have a socket big enough for the nut holding the flange on the T/C.

I might reconsider if I need to rebuild the double-knuckle side of the driveshaft. I already replaced the yoke side u-joint. Has anyone rebuilt one of these before:

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The double u-joint side seems specialized. Not sure what part couples the two joints together etc.

Snow is coming in tonight so I'll see if she vibrates/squeals, etc in a proper road-test.
 

chengny

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It's a CV joint.

This type of universal joint (Fig. 10) consists of two conventional cross and roller joints connected with a special link yoke. Because the two joint angles are the same, even though the usual universal joint fluctuation is present within the unit, the acceleration of the front joint (within the yoke) is always neutralized by the deceleration of the rear joint (within the yoke) and vice versa. The end result is the front and rear propeller shafts always turn at a constant velocity.

Fig. 10:

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The cross journals are the kind found in standard u-joint. Rebuild kit for the centering ball is on the shelf at NAPA:

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http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=PUJ606_0157650532

Here is a link to the first time I encountered and rebuilt one:

http://www.truckforum.org/forums/gmc-truck-forum/14496-vintage-spicer-double-cardan-p171.html


Don't ask me how to do the rebuild, that was 5 years and thousands of Natty Ice's ago.
 
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chengny

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Here is the rebuild procedure:

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Constant Velocity Joint
To disassemble the constant velocity joint, the bearings should be removed in sequence shown in Fig. 11. This method requires the least amount of work.


1.Mark all yokes before disassembly as shown in Fig. 12, so that they can be reassembled in their original relationship to maintain driveshaft balance. The following procedure can be performed in a vise. A cross press tool, Fig. 13, can be used in place of the socket used to drive the bearings.

2.Support the driveshaft horizontally in line with the base plate of a press. Place rear end of coupling yoke over a 1-1/8 inch socket to accept the bearing. Place a socket slightly smaller than the bearing, on the opposite side of the spider.


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3.Press bearing cup out of coupling yoke ear. If bearing cup is not completely removed, insert spacer C-4365-4 or equivalent, Fig. 14, and complete removal of bearing cup.

4.Rotate driveshaft 180°and shear the opposite retaining ring, and press the bearing cup out of the coupling yoke as described previously, using spacer C-4365-4 or equivalent.

5.Disengage cross trunnions, still attached to flange yoke, from coupling yoke. Pull flange yoke and cross from centering ball on ball support tube yoke. The ball socket is part of the flange yoke. The ball on some joints is not replaceable. The joints with a replaceable ball can be recognized as shown in Fig. 15. Do not attempt to remove solid ball, as removal tool may be damaged.

6.Pry seal from ball cavity, then remove washers, spring and shoes, Fig. 16.


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Ball Socket


1.To remove ball, separate universal joint between coupling yoke and flange yoke by pressing out trunnion bearing in coupling yoke. Pull flange yoke and cross with ball socket from centering ball as a unit.

2.Clean and inspect ball seat insert bushing for wear. If worn, replace flange yoke and cross assembly.

3.Pry seal from ball cavity, then remove washers, spring and ball seats.

4.Clean and inspect centering ball surface, seal, ball seats, spring and washer. If parts are worn or broken, replace with a service kit.

5.Remove centering ball as shown in Fig. 17, using components of tool C-4365 or equivalent. Install components as shown, and draw ball off ball stud.
 

HotRodPC

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Good Info Jerry. I was going to see if you'd bring your pics over here and do us a write up, but then seen your comment of it being 5 years ago.

You can also get the kit Jerry posted, which is a Precision/Moog Kit for $17 at Rock Auto, or the AC Delco Kit at Rock Auto for $18. I know Napa is quite a bit more than that.

You can also get all those hard parts from RockAuto in AC Delco or Dorman brand too.

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MrMarty51

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The first one of them CV joints I rebuilt I thought,What in the worls did I get Myself into,but,then it was quite straightforwards and not so bad after all.
 

McCSquare

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Jerry,
That is some serious HOWTO/Pin worthy info. Thanks! :headbang:

It does look a bit involved. But I don't think I need to do it.

Driveshaft barely clears the crossmember, probably 1/4 to 1/2". And when I romp on the throttle it clicks or when the chassis is torqued. My first guess would be worn T/C bushing/mount on the crossmember? Maybe my motor mounts?

I'm not sure I'll fix it, its not terribly violent and I don't really use 4WD all that often.

I'd go under and check but its too snowy and cold to bother crawling around under that thing right now.
 

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