front axle identification help

[75k20]

Its going to cost more for a new axle than it would to just get an entire used front diff honestly. I'd try to hit junkyards and used parts sellers in your area. The axles are all the same on all 1/2-3/4 ton 4x4 squares. You can usually get an entire front Dana 44 for $150 or less in my experience. You can find new inner shaft for about $75.. its Dana PN#6273942. The outer part of that shaft is Dana PN# 41677 and is about $50-60. Then you need the U-joint which will be a Dana PN# 5-760X

do i need new seals? or are those part numbers all i need? sorry, new to this

 

[Bextreme04]

do i need new seals? or are those part numbers all i need? sorry, new to this

You have to tear everything apart to get it in, so I would replace every seal and gasket. Depending on how long it's been like that, you should also clean the heck out of everything and regrease the hubs as well. Drain the pumpkin and see how gross it is in there.

 

[454-k10]

Definitely a Dana 44. 60 has kingpins and only 3 u bolts. It should only take 45 minutes to an hour to disassemble the hub and get to the shaft. I’ve done a ton of them years ago and most of the time I didn’t have the funds to buy all new parts. Remove caliper. Remove the locking hub, there’s a ring on the outside locking the assembly to the hub and a snap ring on the inside holding it on the shaft. You don’t have a shaft so I wonder what’s inside. Next you need a special tool to remove the 2 nuts and lock ring inside the hub. After that the hub should slide off. There’s 2 tapered roller bearings. Inner and outer. The one on the back side has a seal so the bearing shouldn’t come out of the hub. The spindle is next and the caliper holder/backing plate. 6 nuts either 9/16 or 1/2. They should be on tight and they are a special nut. Make sure they are in halfway decent shape. Spindle and backing plate off the shaft slides in and out the assembly. Check your ball joints. Easiest way is to turn the vehicle on, have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth while you check EVERY moving steering component. Squares, especially lifted with oversized tires typically have worn steering components. Spend literally a solid minute or 2 watching every moving part. Pen and paper help. I always write the condition of each joint. Always, always, always drain every gear box when getting a new square. Front, rear diff, and t-case if its 4x4. You can spend well over a $100 on new seals and bearings changing a shaft. Or make sure everything is serviceable and reuse what you can. Some people say “you’ve got it apart might as well change it” but let’s face it, that isn’t always possible. My first few chevys I was in and out of a lot. I learned a lot about them and enjoyed what I was doing. I would check junk yards before I bought new shafts. Or eBay. I broke a ton of shafts and actually never bought any new. There are plenty of half ton trucks you can rob shafts from. And it’s a 100 times easier to swap a shaft than an axle. But definitely drain the diffs and check the condition of the gears and bearings internally. And make sure your axles are the same gear ratio. So many people swap axles and don’t match gear ratios. I can do nearly everything mechanically but I don’t have the tools to install gears in axles. I checked a couple weeks ago on prices and they wanted $1500 an axle. So I got junkyard axles with matching gears. If you have any other questions or need more clarification send me a message

 

[454-k10]

And also I don’t worry about part numbers at all. Auto parts store website has most part numbers and if they don’t I search the internet with year, make and model and the part I need. Also, I have an lmc magazine and they break down the vin and tell you exactly what you have