Flexibel brake line hose removal??

[81C10]

How would one take the flexible brake hose out of the frame? It's original brake line on 1981 C-10 2wd. Everything I've seen says something about a "C" clip holding it in, but it appears that mine has a flat washer. It looks like it would unscrew form the frame but that isn't working. Any suggestions? The hard line came off no problem....once I got a set of Flare nut wrenches,

Trying to fix a sticky CALIPER on the driver side. I replaced the Caliper with a re-man unit from parts store, and that didn't work. So only other option is the flex line collapsed on the inside, right? At least that's what I narrowed it down to. Passenger side works fine.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks....

 

[Swims350]

it's got a nut that comes off, a thin piece of flat metal that looks like a nut but is more like a washer.

Almost like a panel nut if you know what those are, or what's called a thread cutting nut or whatever.

That's how my old mans 84 c10 was.

You can use a big socket if you bend the hardline out of the way or a wrench, one of ours was so trashed it took a screwdriver and hammer to turn it off, mostly they came off by hand.

If all else fails get some vice grips or channel locks on it, cut the rubber hose, turn the nut on the outside of the frame, made on the rubber hose end, thus spinning the rubber hose out of the flat metal nut inside the frame.

 

[81C10]

Thank you. I found that pesky nut after giving it a second look with a flashlight, up in the frame. Came off way too easy for half a day of cussin!

Replaced flexible line and hard brake line, no more sticky Caliper!!! Back on the road

 

[89Suburban]

Thank you. I found that pesky nut after giving it a second look with a flashlight, up in the frame. Came off way too easy for half a day of cussin!

Replaced flexible line and hard brake line, no more sticky Caliper!!! Back on the road

Thanks for the update, good useful info here guys.

 

[Swims350]

glad it worked, had problems with ours, we ended up changing both front brake hoses and hard lines on the old man's 84 when we did his, hardlines rusty and having problems getting the flex lines off them, so we cut em LOL.

 

[HotRodPC]

Yep, it wasn't a sticky caliper at all. It was a collapsed rubber brake line. When they go, they work like a PCV valve or a check valve. They'll let the fluid go into the caliper to stop you, but then not let the fluid come back up into the master to release the caliper. I've had to drive a vehicle home once like that with a bleeder wrench. Luckily of the trip was freeway, and I slowed way down coming up on lights in hopes I could hit it on green. I didn't touch the brake pedal unless I had, then if I did, I had to get out and the let the fluid go out of the caliper to release it. Only took a 1/2 pint of wasted fluid to get home that night.

 

[dhamp]

Mine started sticking on me again last weekend when I went to help my cousin move. Same temp fix as before. I pulled over, stood on the gas pedal as hard as I could for 10-15 seconds, and it started working fine. I've driven it 2-3 times since w/no problem. So do you guys think that's a line problem or a caliper problem??

 

[HotRodPC]

You mean stood on the brake pedal I hope. No telling really. Sounds like it needs an inspecton to me. Usually when the hose goes, it's gone and that's that. Maybe you have some rust or junk behind the caliper piston not allowing it to return home where it belongs. Believe it or not, reman calipers and this hose will cost you about $30 a side. I'd replace both caliper and hose. To cheap not to for the safety factor and knowing its a 25 year old vehicle.

 

[Swims350]

agreed, we had new calipers on dad's 84, brakes started dragging, changed hoses, same problem, had to change the calipers again. They were still under warranty so it was free.

 

[dhamp]

Yeah HRPC, I meant the brake! Yeah, I know. The PS one was sticking and ruined the rotor years ago. I was in a time crunch and just did that side, intending to do the other side "in a few weeks". That never happened. I need to plan doing it so I can have one of my friends over. I only learned to bleed using the pedal pumping method. I usually clamp the flex line shut to keep air out when I do the changeover, then have someone press the pedal while I crack the bleeder then release the clamp. Last time, my wife let up on the pedal and got all kinds of air up in my system. Ended up taking it to the shop to get fixed. It worked out though, because the fluid was old as hell and the system needed to be flushed anyway. That was so long ago that it's about time to do it again! LOL! I guess now would be a good time to screw it up again!

 

[78 K-10]

hotrod. that trip sounded sweet

 

[HotRodPC]

hotrod. that trip sounded sweet

Buddy, I have drove some **** and can tell some stories. I don't know if that's cuz I am stupid enough or brave enough. I've also got a similar story where one of my drivers when I the bossman, blew a slave cylinder to the clutch in the truck. I drove the truck 30 miles with NO clutch to disengage. I started it in gear holding the clutch to the floor anyway to activate the clutch safety switch. Got it rolling and float shifted all the way to 5th gear. Timed the lights the best I could so I wouldn't have to stop since he killed the battery, I was afraid I couldn't start it in gear again just yet. So when I came to a light, I had him in my truck, hold traffic back in the slow lane of an intersection, I went in one driveway and out another about 4 times in circles on a corner lot till the light turned green. I can float shift like no other in about anything. Upshift, downshift, and many times time it right, still come to a complete stop and take off in first gear without touching the clutch. I do in the roll back all the time at stop signs. Stop lights are different cuz you don't know when they'll turn green. They synchos are toast, so it actually does better being float shifted than driven with the clutch. My boss can't drive the truck right either. He's pretty much said, noone drives the truck but me unless its just a flat out must. I've even driven a truck home with NO brakes at all. Downshifting, timing lights, and leaving plenty of space to stop if I had to using the E brake. No brakes when the master cylinder is fried.

 

[89Suburban]

Buddy, I have drove some **** and can tell some stories. I don't know if that's cuz I am stupid enough or brave enough. I've also got a similar story where one of my drivers when I the bossman, blew a slave cylinder to the clutch in the truck. I drove the truck 30 miles with NO clutch to disengage. I started it in gear holding the clutch to the floor anyway to activate the clutch safety switch. Got it rolling and float shifted all the way to 5th gear. Timed the lights the best I could so I wouldn't have to stop since he killed the battery, I was afraid I couldn't start it in gear again just yet.

We had one of our Pete tractors drive back here like that last week about 40 miles, he lost his clutch disengage. He got 440K out of that clutch too.