Fitech

[Burban]

I know some prefer to stay true to the old iron and just retro mod it with today's technology add-ons, but JMO... the cost of these FI systems you can do a 5.3 LS Swap. With just a little more you can add a tuner and bigger injectors and get much more horsepower out it as well as better mpg.

I'm all for economy, no issue with dropping in an LS, but really you can find them for under $800, complete? Where?

I'm thinking even if I got a longblock, I'd still have to get new accessories and plumbing, and all that?

All I'm talking about is spending an extra $200 and getting an all in one EFI instead of a carb?

 

[yevgenievich]

Complete lq9 6.0 for sale here for $1k. And another rebuilt one for $2k. Add $1k in swap parts, subtract $500 for selling old motor. Still $500 or so more than fitech but to me worth it to have factory parts support.

 

[Green79Scottsdale]

With all this "just as cheap to go LS" talk I hear, do any of you tell the guys that still build Ford flatheads how retarded they are for going that route? Before the LS, before the SBC, the flathead was the most popular hotrod motor. It's what got Edelbrock going. Do you guys bash them for going down their path when it would be significantly cheaper to build a SBC/LS that makes a ton more power?

 

[yevgenievich]

Depends on perspective. I am working on all around family vehicle for drivng long distance type scenario. All for keeping tbi or better fi. Used to have a carbed truck and it was okish except my wife could never start it very well. But working with aftetmarket fuel injection you are out of the factory parts realm. Reason ls motors get brought up is when someone wants fuel injection with better power than tbi can offer.
Or get aftermarket fuel injection and keep the carb in the bag under the seat just in case.

 

[gpmorgan]

The kit comes with all the sensors. I installed the 1200 hp unit on my 632 bbc. There is some tuning you have to play with. The heat sensor they send with it is garbage. It read 20 degrees to cold and was causing some problems. It was a gm knock off so I just got one for a 97 vortex engine and all is well. All of the injectors and sensors are suppose to be gm. This past week I set it up to do ign control. I used the distributor from the tbi engine that came in my truck because it's already locked out and the rotor is phased from the factory. It's all pretty simple to install and set up. You just need to pay attention to the instructions. Throttle response is killer. I've also heard that the fuel comand center has had some issues but they may have got it figured out by now. I'm using a aeromotive pump in my tank. It's a 92 c1500 truck so that's all I had to upgrade.

 

[Burban]

Depends on perspective. I am working on all around family vehicle for drivng long distance type scenario. All for keeping tbi or better fi. Used to have a carbed truck and it was okish except my wife could never start it very well. But working with aftetmarket fuel injection you are out of the factory parts realm. Reason ls motors get brought up is when someone wants fuel injection with better power than tbi can offer.
Or get aftermarket fuel injection and keep the carb in the bag under the seat just in case.

Fair point, but your math relies on being able to buy an LS for $1K, and have it be good, and be able to buy all the add on parts, and be willing to swap the engine, and be able to find someone to buy the old one.

At that point I'm easier just chucking the '83 and buying a used Toyota.

Really I'd just never seen this Fitech stuff before, and for a couple of bungs and a bit more than a carb, I could get better drivability out of the old one (allegedley or maybe not, which was why I was asking)

 

[HotRodPC]

I'm all for economy, no issue with dropping in an LS, but really you can find them for under $800, complete? Where?

I'm thinking even if I got a longblock, I'd still have to get new accessories and plumbing, and all that?

All I'm talking about is spending an extra $200 and getting an all in one EFI instead of a carb?

That's not bad to spend $200 more for an EFI over a carb.

Yes, that's why I said 5.3. If you want 6.0 or 6.2 you'll pay more but I've heard of several guys around here getting the much more common 5.3 with ECM and harness for $500 and $600 with 100,000 - $150,000 miles. There's still lots of life in a 5.3 with 150,000. At least 100,000 probably 150,000 if it was maintained.

Though do keep in mind there is more to get too. Exhaust, Mounts, Conversion for your old trans if you don't swap that etc. It is a bit more than just the cost of the engine, ECM and harness.

So if you need a carb, and it's only a $200 difference to keep what you have, then you're probably on the right track. Now if you needed an engine and was going to pay $1600 for a crate engine, then hell yes, I'd for sure go for the Used LS option first.

 

[Burban]

I think if I was going engine swap, I'd probably try and get a diesel in there, a 4BT or an Isuzu, preferably something with a mechanical pump so I'm not messing about with ECU's. I have an OM616 but I don't think it could pull it, though there are adaptor plates to bolt it to the 700R4

 

[OkieFishMan]

I have a good friend that put a Fitech Go Street on his Jeep with the fuel command center. It worked extremely well and he had absolutely zero problems. Throttle response was way better than the carb that was on it. There are some keys to getting them to work well. You can't have any exhaust leaks before the O2 sensor, make sure the throttle body has a good ground, you may have to make some IAC adjustments on them, and you must have good fuel pressure. I loved his and wouldn't hesitate to buy one in the future.

 

[HotRodPC]

I think if I was going engine swap, I'd probably try and get a diesel in there, a 4BT or an Isuzu, preferably something with a mechanical pump so I'm not messing about with ECU's. I have an OM616 but I don't think it could pull it, though there are adaptor plates to bolt it to the 700R4

For a daily driver pick up, I'd love to do a 4BT Swap. We had a member on here do it in a Suburban and he did a tilt nose on it. He was a good guy to have here, but he sold the truck since he was a traveling nurse and he hasn't been here in years. I'll dig up his link. If he had finished it off, I think it would have looked good but he sold it before finishing it off.

 

[HotRodPC]

Here is @wildcatjason thread to his tilt front end. I guess he didn't do a thread on the 4BT Swap, but you can see pics of it.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/full-tilt-front-end.2798/

 

[Burban]

Going back to the Fitech for a bit, one that thing that makes me want it, is that supposedly it's E85 capable, which living in the Midwest is a big plus for me, corn juice can be had for cheap round here, year round. I'd be interested to see how the mileage is affected though. I had a 2.4 Chevy flex fuel and it dropped 5-6 mpg on E85 vs regular. Fitech say expect a 30% power drop for the overall capability. I'm imagining that's because it takes more fuel to make the same horsepower. Seeing as I'm on a bone stock 350 AFAIK I don't think that'll be an issue.

So I'm thinking new fuel lines, a new high pressure inline pump and somehow run a return. I'm hoping that's as easy as swapping a sending unit plate??

Will I have to block off where the current fuel pump is?

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Going back to the Fitech for a bit, one that thing that makes me want it, is that supposedly it's E85 capable, which living in the Midwest is a big plus for me, corn juice can be had for cheap round here, year round. I'd be interested to see how the mileage is affected though. I had a 2.4 Chevy flex fuel and it dropped 5-6 mpg on E85 vs regular. Fitech say expect a 30% power drop for the overall capability. I'm imagining that's because it takes more fuel to make the same horsepower. Seeing as I'm on a bone stock 350 AFAIK I don't think that'll be an issue.

So I'm thinking new fuel lines, a new high pressure inline pump and somehow run a return. I'm hoping that's as easy as swapping a sending unit plate??

Will I have to block off where the current fuel pump is?

Block off plate are cheap. You should be able too o swap in a fuel injection sending unit with a return. You can get a high pressure pump to put on the end of the new sending unit and be good to go after it's wired.

 

[Burban]

I was going to go with an inline pump, is it better to get an in tank one?

My thinking was I already have an auxiliary fuel pump somewhere on the frame rail, I used to wait for it to stop ticking before I'd try and start, because that meant the fuel was pumped into the system.

 

[yevgenievich]

Intank usually lasts longer