FiTech Fuel Injection

[rpcraft]

It seems like for what you pay for the fuel command center and all the problems that seem to be associated with it it might be a better solution to do an in tank pump and just avoid that. I did hear they have a new version out. I figure they are probably trying to resolve their issues and that seems great, but aside from the constant issues with the fuel command center, from what I have heard the official Fi-Tech customer support seems to be lacking a little. I don't know that personally though but that just seems to be one of the bigger complaints across forums that I visit.

 

[Kyle Childress]

Its far better to just run a full fuel system, get a decent intank pump or inline, run a send and return with a regulator. Done, not heard alot of good from the command center personally.

 

[rpcraft]

I converted my in tank setup on my 85 K5 to a EFI pump for my LS swap but then gain I also put in a 87 TBI tank and sending unit Cost about maybe 250 bucks all together but it was all brand new parts. The tank had the baffle in it for keeping fuel around the pump so it made sense in the grand scheme. I decided to use the Dorman fuel line and adapters from the tank to the front of the motor to save a few dollars. We'll soon see if I regret that or not. I have a few areas where I am going to cover it with the DEI heat tubing just to protect it from header heat and similar issues, but I would have been doing the same thing with the braided or steel fuel lines as well.

 

[mnessman]

I have the same setup in my 79 c20. I also had this same issue, and what I found out is that my vent line going back to the tank was plugged. By it being plugged the pressure in the command center overcame what the mechanical pump could put out and so it ran out of gas in the command center. once I fixed the vent line I have not had any other problems with this setup and I have driven it for more than a year with no problems.

 

[75gmck25]

A surge tank (Command Center, etc.) makes more sense on a pickup EFI conversion where you want to keep dual tanks working. Otherwise you need to buy two EFI tanks and an EFI solenoid and switch, which is quite a lot to install.

Surge tanks are a popular setup for off-road and racing, even with carburetors, since it prevents fuel starvation at high angles or in corners. There are a lot of stand-alone tanks available that you could use to make your own system. They are fairly cheap, and some are as big as 3 liters. However, then you have to buy the pump and connect all the plumbing to make it work. Most also do not have a float system to manage fuel coming in.

Bruce

 

[AzGeo]

While doing my EFI/turbo conversion (still not on the road yet) I investigated the FiTech fuel pump tank/module piece . The "heat problem" with it is simple, and why you only have problems in higher ambient temps . The FiTech system is a "deadhead fuel design", in their attempt to make it More Simple for the builder . The high pressure fuel pump inside the "fuel center canister" is cooled by the fuel running thru it . If the fuel pump is holding solid outlet line pressure and the fuel is flowing VERY SLOWLY, because the engine is at low RPM's, the pump and the fuel in that small tank GET HOT . Compounding the problem is the fact that under hood temps may be raising the temperature of the tank and it's fuel contents to a "boiling point" . IMO, "deadhead EFI fuel systems" require a fuel pump source far away from any external heat, and are usually more viable on "non-high performance installations" . This is why late model cars and trucks that use "deadhead fuel systems", all run their fuel pumps IN THE FUEL TANK, for COOLING the FUEL PUMP .

 

[kevin500]

I recently put the Edelbrock E-Street 2 on my beater square. After researching fuel supplies and various issues people have had with them, I elected to go with '87 tank and sending unit, Walbro in-tank pump, and 2000 Corvette filter. The filter is also the regulator with the return line from the filter so it does double duty. Mounted the filter by the tank so the feed and return lines are less than 2' long, and only one line to run to the engine from the filter. I changed the vent line at the same time because the old one was getting rusty and nasty inside. Nice clean install. $25-30 for a new filter. No fuel/heat issues, just have to make sure the small line inside the tank is firmly clamped between pump and sending unit. (I know this because I foolishly tried the factory plastic clamps.)