Exhaust/valve tick

[maxtwms]

Dude.
Pull it out and remove the valve "flap", leave the rest of it alone, and put it back where it came from. I THINK it's beveled on the exit side and flat on the upstream side, so a donut gasket IS necessary.

Pretty sure.

The EfE is 2 inches thick or so, you can't NOT put it back without exhaust work.


Maybe you have a sticky lifter...
Substitute one quart motor oil for one quart DEX 3 and forget about it until lifter unsticks.

Hope this helps!

I actually removed the valve cover while running and relashed the valves the other night and the tick was still there. Either I was sloppy (work quality/drinking) or it's gotta be that ******* efe bs

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[Rusty Nail]

Well, I made very sound suggestions and don't wish to repeat myself. That said, I believe that the EfE valve "flapping" is extremely unlikely. It will NOT turn a circle inside the exhaust pipe. It IS beveled on one end and if I remember correctly, the ID of the exhaust pipe is actually reduced inside the valve itself.

The premise of removing the valve is kind of to make you feel better and would REALLY only serve a purpose in very,very, extreme and rare circumstances where every last HP or 100th of a second really counted, for example.
UNLESS for some reason you believe the actual valve FLAP is hanging, or sticking closed for some reason, it's basically an exercise in futility and you just adjusted your valves with one of them sticking closed.

Do yourself a favor and invest in some MARVEL MYSTERY OIL and use it as directed in both your gas tank AND your crankcase.

Substituting a quart of oil for a quart of DEX 3 is also a pro tip and I mean PRO.

 

[maxtwms]

I wasnt suggesting it was spinning, I meant that it could be flapping back and forth since there isnt a constant exhaust pressure and would allow it to smack both sides. I could be wrong but wanted to rule it out.

I cannot find this Dex 3 oil you speak of. The only thing I see is for transmissions.... maybe this is why you called it a pro tip?

 

[Frankenchevy]

It is ATF. The detergents are supposed to free stuck lifters that won’t pump up. Definitely worth trying if it is a stuck lifter.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Yessir, I reference Dextron 3 transmission fluid.

 

[maxtwms]

Done. Got a needed oil change today and added it in. Do I run it until the tick stops or 3000 miles (whichever comes first) or is there a tipping point?

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[Rusty Nail]

Yes.

Lol...it may take awhile! There's no sense in rushing the dex.
You could even go TWO quarts if your driving is NOT "spirited".
I have over the winter, switching with MMO, when I was sitting in my truck for HOURS and HOURS at a time with the engine running for the heater.

The end result was that it worked. I wouldn't lead ya astray.

Best stick with the one quart for starters (it is MUCH thinner than motor oil) and only one quart HAS effectively reduced the oil's overall weight/viscosity. Keep that in mind next time you're planning a full throttle upshift.

 

[maxtwms]

Nice. I put some MMO in the fuel tank too.

I was reading up on the EFE valve from the Haynes manual and it noted that a malfunctioning EFE could result in run-on. That was interesting. I'm assuming that's when its stuck closed. The reason I didn't know what was open or closed is becuase its rusted bad enough that the spring doesnt work, or the spring/diaphram is bad altogether. Im going to hit it with some PBB and see what happens just to get a feel for where it is mechanically.

Instead of deleting or tieing it off, Id like to get it to work so I can start and warm up quicker in the winter months. Ive read it's better for fuel economy (like that exists). Don't take it for being stubborn if I combine all the suggestions and don't choose yours.

 

[maxtwms]

Wait, so it’s stuck open, but you can move it? Even if it’s still working, it can make noise. I suspected mine, and while I couldn’t 100% confirm, I just tied it open anyway. I think it’s designed to work in conjunction with the heat stove and riser tube that go to the thermal apparatus in the air cleaner, and I don’t think it would provide any benefit except if all of it was there, everything was working, and it was cold. If you had a mechanic’s stethoscope, you could probe it and confirm it for sure, but I’m thinking just get rid of it functionally.

So reading back through this and from my understanding, the exhaust would just feed back through the manifold across the intake to the other side. Is this not true? Maybe I just dont understand how this thing works.

 

[78C10BigTen]

So reading back through this and from my understanding, the exhaust would just feed back through the manifold across the intake to the other side. Is this not true? Maybe I just dont understand how this thing works.

My truck had it also but i planned headers and custom duals so i just chopped it off lol

 

[Rusty Nail]

Ah hah!
We're on to something!

The short answer to your question is "no" and me intention is to help you understand. I have spent a great deal of time many moons ago in such an effort and believe perhaps we can teach each other something while the audience watches with a baited breath, waiting on one of us to say the wrong thing. It's a fun game, if you accept that challenge to not misspeak. Oh! AND be sure that your grammar and spelling are correct or you risk losing cool points.

There is no re-routing of exhaust gas, ever.
The EfE system captures produced HEAT and reroutes it into the carburetor via the thermatic air cleaner.
There is a passage within the stock intake manifold AND cylinder heads that allows produced HEAT to freely flow underneath the carburetor.
The system will also allow fresh, cool air into the carburetor OR force it to ingest captured HEAT from the exhaust manifold, rather the opening behind the grille.
These determinations are calculated and valued via the multitudes of vacuum / heat switches that rely on both ambient air temperature AND coolant temp.

If any part of your system in M.IA. OR INOP, the total system efficiency is WILDLY reduced as all parts work very closely with each other and DIRECTLY affect fuel mixture.

Hope this helps!

 

[maxtwms]

Ok so back to unsticking the valve.... Not sure if this is how it should work but the tick is louder and the optimistic side of me wants to believe it has broke free and now I get to readjust the valve lash and everything will be smooth as Creek bed butter. Sound right?

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[maxtwms]

Ah hah!
We're on to something!

The short answer to your question is "no" and me intention is to help you understand. I have spent a great deal of time many moons ago in such an effort and believe perhaps we can teach each other something while the audience watches with a baited breath, waiting on one of us to say the wrong thing. It's a fun game, if you accept that challenge to not misspeak. Oh! AND be sure that your grammar and spelling are correct or you risk losing cool points.

There is no re-routing of exhaust gas, ever.
The EfE system captures produced HEAT and reroutes it into the carburetor via the thermatic air cleaner.
There is a passage within the stock intake manifold AND cylinder heads that allows produced HEAT to freely flow underneath the carburetor.
The system will also allow fresh, cool air into the carburetor OR force it to ingest captured HEAT from the exhaust manifold, rather the opening behind the grille.
These determinations are calculated and valued via the multitudes of vacuum / heat switches that rely on both ambient air temperature AND coolant temp.

If any part of your system in M.IA. OR INOP, the total system efficiency is WILDLY reduced as all parts work very closely with each other and DIRECTLY affect fuel mixture.

Hope this helps!

Im not offended bud. I've accomplished enough to know what I don't know and I'm not ashamed to ask what I don't. I realize all y'all here are way more educated on the intricacies of these trucks, or any vehicle for that matter, than I'll ever be. That why I'm here offering my ******* assessments. Willing to be the whipping boy. I appreciate the comradary. I don't come here to be right and argue. I come here for the expertise and knowledge. Some things just take a bit for us newbies.

But to the point of the efe, that makes sense. As an engineer I understand the compounding effect of all that crap in symphony. If anything, at least, the valve should be tied open. Done

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[maxtwms]

I went back to the exhaust fellas and I had them replace the gaskets to the efe valve. Tick is gone!! Gaskets we're totally busted. But... Now the truck runs like crap off the line. Sputtering and what not. Again, I didn't get a good look while he had it off (totally my fault) so I don't know if the spring inside the valve forces it open or closed. I wanna tie the damn thing off but don't know which way to swing it.

So question is, is it normally open or closed with a functioning spring and no vacuum. Thanks

 

[Rusty Nail]

I recall the valve adjustment to make the EfE stop leaking?

I would do it again now...that's likely a good place to start.

I want to say when the thermal vacuum switch on the thermostat housing operates the valve, it is pulling it closed. Exhaust gas flow would force it open by default.