Yes, Dieseling or after run is the correct term.
Find the miss first and you may well solve the dieseling problem at the same time.
Dieseling is caused by something lighting off the fuel after the key is off and the spark has stopped. Carbon can cause it. To much timing advance or to little can cause it. Higher idle speeds can attribute to it.
The standard procedure if a carb'd vehicle came in the shop doing this would be to track down the miss first. Then assuming the dieseling is still a problem, set the timing, set the idle speed and mixture.
Shakey, Does the idle speed need to be at 1,100RPM? I know if it's cammed it might need that high of an idle but lowering it a few hundred RPM might solve it.
What do you have for a distributor? Let me run this by you. If your running a race distributor with no vacuum advance can then if your setting the base timing by ear and getting close to 20 degrees (I'm picking a random number for an example), you kill the engine it's still at 25 degrees. If you had a base timing of 10 degrees and and a vacuum advance can hooked to manifold vacuum, then you'd kill the engine with still the same combined timing of 25, but when you kill the switch vacuum drops to 10 degrees, which effectively drops the idle speed.
So with that in mind you might try retarding the timing a little.
And to stop a troubled engine once and for all from dieseling is to install idle speed kicker, with the wire attached to switched voltage, so you can have the 1,000 RPM idle, but kill the ignition and the throttle blades close a bunch more.
Step one for me would be pulling all the plugs and running a compression test, then tune up parts, then troubleshoot the dieseling.
Hopefully something in there is helpful.