Engine Choices

[vicnation]

I'm building a 1976 K10 shortbed to sell. I'm trying to decide the best engine to install for resale. Would people be more interested in an LS (LQ9) or a big block paired with 4sp automatic? What would bring the best return on investment?

Thanks...

 

[CSFJ]

As close to stock as possible. Most people looking for a project, don't want your idea of the perfect truck. A blank canvass that hasn't been molested is a preferred starting point.

 

[rpcraft]

That is good advice CSFJ. I often prefer to buy the closer to stock version and pay less for it because even though I might be swapping something else into it I spend a lot less time trying to figure out why some brain genius has speaker wires running from the battery to mysterious black boxes under the dash and other stupid things. If I am not looking for a running truck all I usually am concerned with is the body and frame and no concern if the motor in it is a boat anchor or not so it's never a bargaining point for me. if it's the difference between paying 2500 or 1000 for a truck I'll tell them to pull the motor and trans and keep and I am willing to walk away. Just saves me the time of tossing it to the side and trying to unload it on someone later. If it currently has nothing in it and its a clean project truck sell it as is and be done with it, unless you are trying to be a wheeler-dealer, in which case do it right and don't half ass it.

 

[vicnation]

Thank you for the replies. I understand what you are saying (2 words). I don't want to build a truck to be a project for someone else. It would probably be close to the same cost to build it to stock as it would with certain upgrades. Everything is being done very well and I am just researching what the market is looking for in an engine for a truck that is built properly.

What is the value of a truck that is put back to stock with a weak factory 350, a TH350, NP203, 3.08 gears, vinyl bench seat, no A/C and the factory burnt orange color?

 

[MtBraun]

Value is dependent on condition and area. For example, I tried to sell a very mechanically sound square that needed a bunch of body work...couldn't give it away and ended up taking it to the scrapyard because I was moving. That's up in northern MN.

If you're doing the project because its what you enjoy, then that's part of your "return" on investment. If it's purely a dollars play, then generally the return on squares is poor in these parts.

 

[CSFJ]

Anything put into an engine, is very hard to prove at point of sale. It all comes down to the buyer taking your word that the listed components are actually in the block. Receipts can only show that you did purchase parts, wether they are installed in the engine at hand is left to the buyer to decide. Not saying you're out to do something like that, but the skeptical buyer is usually not the guy who gets ripped off. That's why I would stay as stock as possible. Spend the time and money making sure everything works as it should, and is as clean as possible. As far as an LS type swap, unless it's executed with a level of detail that makes it look like the factory put it there, it will be a deterrent. For what it's worth, I put a premium on originality.

 

[vicnation]

I definitely understand the value of originality. This truck sat in a field for 14 years and I'm sure you can guess how badly it deteriorated. I am finally getting it back to its best with the body, frame, suspension, electrical and drive-ability systems.I have reconditioned as many original parts as I could save but sadly I had to replace much of the exterior. Original parts are not easy to find in my area because the yards crushed most everything that old. When I first got the truck, I was able to get it running and driving but time was not kind to the driveline. Knowing that I need to either rebuild the current driveline or get a crate engine and transmission and new gearing to match, I just wanted to find out what would be the best option for a powerplant.

As someone with a disability, working on the truck is very beneficial to me. I have a passion for working on old cars/trucks. I don't care if I make a large profit although I do want to break even. I just want to move the truck on to make room for the next project. I need to stay busy with passion projects.

 

[yevgenievich]

Rebuild originals with maybe better heads/cam while motor is open unless the ls swap would be done complete with ac, proper integrated wiring, accessories and etc... Then the ls swap would be a nice things for someone looking for one already done to factory levels. I looked at some a while back and every halfway swapped square was trying to charge a premium for ls motor but not selling very quickly because it was just running and not much else.

 

[Crispy]

Since I'm a tinkerer myself I prefer to buy as close to stock as possible and go from there. Not everyone falls into that category, especially on a vehicle specific message board so your answers may be skewed in one direction. If I was in a position where I was looking to buy a nice driver I would want a LS Swapped square over a big block. If you can do the labor yourself and score the parts needed on the cheaper side then you can stand to make a couple of thousand in my opinion.

I think it being a round eye will command a few more dollars over a square square if the body is in good shape.

If you dont mind sharing, what are your costs, estimated expenses and hopeful asking price?

 

[vicnation]

Hard cost to date without powertrain, AC, trim and my labor is about $3600, including the cost of the truck. Powertrain costs are unknown right now because I still have some decisions to make.

I have up to a $20K budget that I can use and I'm doing the labor myself. I don't know what I will ask for the truck but breaking even is fine with me so I can move on to the next one. I won't ever make up for my labor costs but that's okay.

 

[4WDKC]

if its mechanically solid and looks like **** no one will pay more than $500 for it but, literally people used to sell cars with shinny paint jobs and saw dust in the oil to keep the engine from knocking and people line up to buy them. This still holds true, check out your local fs ads, you will see runs great rusty and reliable $500 still available, the next with will be has blown head gasket, 300k miles in fantastic condition $3000

FInd the $500 driving junker and swap in the engine and trans, this helps keep the price down and allows the next buyer to either have a nice driver for descent price or not pay alot for an engine/trans that they are going to swap anyway.

 

[AzGeo]

I may have read the original question differently than others here, because he (IMO) was asking about "sales value of a restored/custom vehicle", and how to get the most money for it . Quality and detail will make or break any project vehicle, for sale or not . Unlike some who offered opinions here, many people would pay "top dollar" for a a good looking, reliable, mild custom truck, that they did not have a hand in building . Some would like all the "hard work done" and just buy and install their choice of wheels, and sounds . Hate to jump on the "trend wagon", but a used 6.0/4L60 will offer the best reliability and performance, for the time and money spent here . Then go into both axles with 3.55/3.73's for a REAL street and off road performer . Finish off with some "factory truck rally wheels" and reasonable 30" M/S tires, and NO MONSTER LIFT KIT . He is not asking about "building and then selling to another builder", he's asking about selling to a "buyer without a tool box" . I see it this way; "you can spend $5K for an off road flooding carb, or an on road continuous 700 R4 cable adjusting nightmare, or you could spend $7500 on a viable modern vehicle" .

 

[peats]

what are the actual dollar numbers that you have in mind? i have found that it usually takes $5k to $8K to get a barn find right without paint. that is with no return on my hours. if this is a flip you will probably be working for $2 bucks an hour. i just don't think the market is there for squares. there should be a business plan in place if this is to be a money making project. i don't see a good return on your investment.

 

[82sbshortbed]

Some pics would help to get an idea of what your working with. If I was you I'd not even get close to your $20k budget. That kinda money in the truck would mean it's totally custom and would need the right buyer to buy it. Guy had a total custom square body short bed with ls3,custom paint,interior rims and tires with all the bells and whistles on it. He wanted $24k for it. Which means he had $20 or more in it. The ad was up for months. Then he started saying he take trades because nobody wanted to pay that much for it. If you want to sell it quick so you can start another one. Then I'd keep it close to stock. Crate 350 and rebuilt th350. Then an intake new carb and maybe some headers. Like what was stated before you can have receipts for internal engine parts but, they can't see them. Everything you put on it needs to be seen so there is no doubt that you put them on the truck. Just some decent rims and tires. I'd put a $500-800 paint job if the paints not in good shape. If no rust and paints decent? Then I'd just buff it out to put some shine to it. Keep it around $5000-8000 in it to help the speed of the sale, shorter time to have it up. If it looks good and running dependable then they can put the stuff like rims and tires and so forth that they like on themselves to make it feel more like theirs. Jmo

 

[tanyourhide]

Im big on originality. Im running a 74 c10 with straight six and a th350. I cant imagine driving a 44 year old square with a newer hi falootin motor with all ghe electromic gizmos. If i wanted something like hei ignition or tbi i would by a truck that came with it. Driving a square should be driving a square not a modern truck that looks like a square