Electrical woes....

[Kyle Childress]

Thought I had it all sorted out..... But I have no power inside cab, I remade main hot from battery and purple wire to starter and I have power to fuse box, but I have nothing on the ignition side of things. I have head lights and markers but anything that is key on is dead. I replaced the ignition switch last year along with the column, and the old neutral safety switch caused issues then, can this be the cause? Can I disable to switch entirely? Also ground straps, body to frame and engine to frame, can this be the cause?

 

[Snoots]

Digging for info here...

Ignition 'ON' (not start), do you have radio or heater/ac blower?

Ignition 'START', will it crank?

It could be a problem with the Neutral Safety switch but I would not remove or bypass it.

 

[Kyle Childress]

Ignition on I have nothing

key to crank I have nothing

The neutral safety switch is a left over from back In the day when the truck had automatic at one point. But the automatic is long gone as well as the auto column, but I swapped the switch over when the columns were swapped. I also swapped in a new ignition switch, all of which were working when the truck was driven into the shop about a year ago.

 

[Snoots]

So, you're saying you have the neutral safety on the manual (clutch) now?

Now it's starting to sound like an ignition switch adjustment at the base of the column.

 

[Kyle Childress]

Yes..... I know it sounds like a rigging and... it is, BUT. The switch is just hanging out under the dash in the park position I thought, which is why I was wondering how to remove the switch entirely to eliminate it from being an issue or culprit. Would the neutral safety switch take away current from everything inside the cab?

 

[Snoots]

Which switch is 'just hanging out'?
Ignition or neutral safety?

If it's the neutral safety, then it's open (no connection). You won't get any power to the solenoid.
If it's the ignition, there's no guarantee that it's in the 'PARK' position.

Get out your electrical schematic and meter (DMM) and,
1) Check for continuity with the neutral safety. Make certain it works.
2) Check for power (12VDC) at the ignition switch.

I've had these issues before. Just a simple adjustment here and there.

 

[Kyle Childress]

Can do, I've already printed off the whole 1979 wiring diagram on 11x17s and had it there yesterday. I know my issues was there at the column because everything is a green light up to that point. Should there be power at any of the ignition labeled spots on the fuse panel before this? Because there is not, I'm still wrapping my mind around the factory wiring diagrams, they are a little confusing and jumbled up, doesn't help my truck was once a diesel either.

 

[75gmck25]

You can just use a jumper between terminals on the neutral safety switch to leave it always connected. IIRC you just need a short wire with two male spade terminals.

However, the neutral safety is only used to control the starter, so you should still have power to the dash and all accessories if your ignition switch is working. When you worked on the column before, did you install a new ignition rack? That little square pot metal piece is what connects the ignition switch to the rod on the column, and then the rod actuates the electric switch lower in the column. If the pot metal fractures it will not pull the rod evenly and the electrical will not work. If the rack is still good, you may also need to adjust the electrical piece up or down on the column to get it lined up right.

Another place to check is the fusible link that comes straight down off the junction block that is right next to the brake booster. This link can burn internally and cut off the power. Check for power at the post on that junction block. If it is not powered, the fusible link at the upper end of the wire (at the junction), or possibly the one at the bottom (usually at the starter?) may be blown.

Bruce

 

[Kyle Childress]

You can just use a jumper between terminals on the neutral safety switch to leave it always connected. IIRC you just need a short wire with two male spade terminals.

However, the neutral safety is only used to control the starter, so you should still have power to the dash and all accessories if your ignition switch is working. When you worked on the column before, did you install a new ignition rack? That little square pot metal piece is what connects the ignition switch to the rod on the column, and then the rod actuates the electric switch lower in the column. If the pot metal fractures it will not pull the rod evenly and the electrical will not work. If the rack is still good, you may also need to adjust the electrical piece up or down on the column to get it lined up right.

Bruce

No new rack just the switch, and it was all adjusted and working properly a year ago but..... big but, since then ALOT has happened but nothing that I would have though would have jacked with the alignment on the rods. I'm sure its something that I neglected or done to it while messing with everything else.

 

[Snoots]

DAMN!
If it ain't one thing it's another.

Well, you said you had lights so I presume that you have power at the fuse box. BUT, there are different circuits fed by different fusible links.

Lights should be hot all the time. All others are controlled by the ignition switch but are fed from the starter solenoid thru fusible links that then go to the fuse panel/box.

You could have a bad one there. Make sure that all of your power feeds at the starter solenoid are on the 'S' terminal, not the 'R' terminal.

This is assuming that the ignition switch is aligned properly. Get that done first then, concentrate on the neutral safety.

 

[Kyle Childress]

I am using a MSD dynaforce starter that only has the S terminal which is ran to the original ignition wire from the bulkhead. I also went to a MSD one wire alternator that is running directly to the hot post.

I am going to make sure everything in my ignition switch is still aligned properly, then deal with the neutral safety switch. The bulkhead on the fire wall, what should be running to/through it? as of right now I only have the main hot going through it to fuse box, but I removed what I think was the hot for the alternator correct? I know I'm drowning you guys with questions, the more I learn the less I have to ask and bug yall.

 

[Snoots]

but I removed what I think was the hot for the alternator

Need more description here or a picture.

 

[Kyle Childress]

These three wires.

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[Kyle Childress]

Also on the GM wiring diagram master, does this mean it needs power or sends power?

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[Kyle Childress]

Because if this means it receives power I may have figured out what I did wrong..... and I feel like an idiot.