Electrical woes....

[4WDKC]

have you checked the hot wire supplying power to the fuse box? I had one on my vette get corroded cause charging issue and lost power to the dash lights before I found it..lucky I did too as the resistance was causing so much heat the insulation from that wire was melting off. I replaced the entire harness bumper to bumper.

 

[Kyle Childress]

Hot wire to fuse box is new, just ran it, even pulled the wire from the bulk head and replaced it, I have power to fuse box just nothing key on or ignition.

 

[hatzie]

Dumb question but...

Do you have juice at the big fat red wire on the ignition switch? It should be hot with the key off or on. Doesn't matter.

 

[Kyle Childress]

I'm going to check more this afternoon once I get off work, I think I may have found the issue if I am understanding the GM wiring diagram correctly, think I missed some wires when I was hooking things back up that I thought I didn't need any more....... most likely it was me being an idiot that caused all my problems......

 

[Kyle Childress]

I think wires 3 and 4 need voltage.... it says "feed" then a explanation of what the wire is. Unless I am missing the big picture, which is also likely.

 

[4WDKC]

Hot wire to fuse box is new, just ran it, even pulled the wire from the bulk head and replaced it, I have power to fuse box just nothing key on or ignition.

Did you you inspect and replace the terminal in the box? here is what mine did

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I thought I had one of the plastic bulk head melted too and the slop that allowed theterminal to move around.

 

[Kyle Childress]

No I have not.... Now I know what I'm looking for inside the cab though. Thank you all for your help, ive got a good place to start now!

 

[Kyle Childress]

Will not have a chance to work on it this afternoon, will update as soon as I can go to the shop and worl on it more.... bad weather and a near 9 Month pregnant wife makes it hard to get to shop.

 

[Snoots]

most likely it was me being an idiot that caused all my problems......

bad weather and a near 9 Month pregnant wife makes it hard to get to shop.

Rule #1: STOP FEELING LIKE AN IDIOT!
Rule #2: We've all been there at some time.
Rule #3: Forget the truck for now and take care of your wife and kid(s). THEY are #1 now.

We'll be here for you. Chill the f out . . . while you can.

Congratulations to you both!

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[Kyle Childress]

Rule #1: STOP FEELING LIKE AN IDIOT!
Rule #2: We've all been there at some time.
Rule #3: Forget the truck for now and take care of your wife and kid(s). THEY are #1 now.

We'll be here for you. Chill the f out . . . while you can.

Congratulations to you both!

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Thankyou, that's why I'm in a scramble to get it driving lol

 

[Blue Ox]

Rule #1: STOP FEELING LIKE AN IDIOT!
Rule #2: We've all been there at some time.
Rule #3: Forget the truck for now and take care of your wife and kid(s). THEY are #1 now.

We'll be here for you. Chill the f out . . . while you can.

Congratulations to you both!

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Yeah, you have no idea. But congrats from me too. Ultimately it's the most important thing you'll ever do. Although apparently it doesn't seem like it for a while.

 

[Kyle Childress]

She is really understanding at the moment because she knows once he's here I will not be allowed in the shop for a good while.

 

[HotRodPC]

You can just use a jumper between terminals on the neutral safety switch to leave it always connected. IIRC you just need a short wire with two male spade terminals.

However, the neutral safety is only used to control the starter, so you should still have power to the dash and all accessories if your ignition switch is working. When you worked on the column before, did you install a new ignition rack? That little square pot metal piece is what connects the ignition switch to the rod on the column, and then the rod actuates the electric switch lower in the column. If the pot metal fractures it will not pull the rod evenly and the electrical will not work. If the rack is still good, you may also need to adjust the electrical piece up or down on the column to get it lined up right.

Another place to check is the fusible link that comes straight down off the junction block that is right next to the brake booster. This link can burn internally and cut off the power. Check for power at the post on that junction block. If it is not powered, the fusible link at the upper end of the wire (at the junction), or possibly the one at the bottom (usually at the starter?) may be blown.

Bruce

Or you can use those 2 end of P N safety switch to the clutch switch if you did a conversion and it works the same way IIRC, just not the way it's wired from factory but it equates to the same thing and allows the starter to be energized.

 

[Kyle Childress]

Im going to try the jumper method first to eliminate that as a probable cause, you think things would be easier on a truck that started life as a 2wd automatic with that piece of junk 5.7 olds diesel.....

 

[Kyle Childress]

Update to all!!! I had the accesory hot wire ran to the constant hot bulkhead..... my mistake, but fixed it and everything is a green light go! Can I upload a video?