Electric fuel pump

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legend57

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San Jose, CA
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Rob
Truck Year
1976
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
400
I've had good luck with the Carter electric pumps. Here is my go to;
Always had good luck with these. Same design for over almost 40 years. Had one on my 57' Chevy back in the mid 80's. Now have one on my '76 K20.
I do have a fuel pressure regulator that has a return on it, so any overflow returns, just as the original mechanical pump did. This ensures I have both fuel recirculation to help keep it cool and consistent fuel delivery at the carb.
Here is the fuel system set up from the tank to the carb on the '76.:
Tank (Stock) - 100um filter(Wix) - Selector Valve (Stock) - Electric Pump (Carter) - 10um filter (Wix) - Regulator (Holley) - Carb (Stock Qjet)

I mounted the electric pump near the selector valve so it is lowest in the system and primes easily.

Everyone has their own experiences/preferences, but I haven't run a mechanical pump in 40yrs. I run this Carter for any carbureted vehicles. Oh, and for fuel injection, I'm just fine with the inline pumps. I ran an inline pump on one of my Holley fuel injected cars for 20 years without a single failure. Yes, the factory cars do run them in the tank, but that doesn't mean you can't run them inline.
 
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Robert Davis

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Robert
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1975
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K-5 Blazer Cheyenne
Engine Size
350
Hello, Im thinking switching to a electric fuel pump to help stop vapor lock after the engine runs. Currently have a mechanical three port one and once the engine gets warmed up and you shut if off to like get gas, I have to crank, crank, crank to get it started. I looked and read some forums that the little red or black electric edelbrocks are like a 50/50 (they work or dont). I just wanted to see what experience yall have and ran with? I would love to do the 87 tank swap with the pump in the tank but I currently dont have that $$, just got the transmission rebuilt. She has a fresh 383 build and a Holley 750 CFM carb.
 

Ricko1966

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kansas
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Rick
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1975
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c20
Engine Size
350
Running an electric pump,if you mount it in the rear and blow through the factory pump. You can maintain all your factory lines in the front no added rubber lines,clamps or connections. My truck has a flat fuel pump lobe on the cam so I have to run an electric pump for now. Temporary has turned into years. There is no pump pushrod behind my factory pump. The factory pump has valves similiar to reed valves in it you can blow right through it,and it can be used to regulate fuel pressure if necessary. We can cross that bridge if we need to. Any way just wanted you to know it can be done and still maintain the integrity of the factory lines and bypass.
 
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SquareRoot

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I didn't think it got hot enough in Oklahoma to cause vapor lock. :mexsmoke:
 

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