Electric fuel pump

[Asgeir]

Hello, Im thinking switching to a electric fuel pump to help stop vapor lock after the engine runs. Currently have a mechanical three port one and once the engine gets warmed up and you shut if off to like get gas, I have to crank, crank, crank to get it started. I looked and read some forums that the little red or black electric edelbrocks are like a 50/50 (they work or dont). I just wanted to see what experience yall have and ran with? I would love to do the 87 tank swap with the pump in the tank but I currently dont have that $$, just got the transmission rebuilt. She has a fresh 383 build and a Holley 750 CFM carb.

 

[dd1990]

Never had much luck with those external electric pumps...I think electric pumps need to be in the tank so the gasoline cools it, that's why oem electric in tank pumps work. Is your fuel return line still connected and free flowing back to tank?

 

[AuroraGirl]

you need a pump near the tank that also doesnt have a check valve, since you need it to function with your mechanical pump most of the time, a check valve would block it from pulling fuel. so installed near the tank gives it the best life span since it doesnt have to pull a very long column of fuel and should still have some prime to it while your truck is hot and bothered


Then you wire it to a switch or you put it on a timed relay of sorts so you can run it long enough to reduce the issue

On my dads 95 tbi , it has a hot fuel module, and it runs upward 8 seconds to prime the fuel pump iirc, so if you needed an idea for how long thats how much his tbi (15 psi?) uses from its in tank pump

 

[Asgeir]

Never had much luck with those external electric pumps...I think electric pumps need to be in the tank so the gasoline cools it, that's why oem electric in tank pumps work. Is your fuel return line still connected and free flowing back to tank?

I dont know, havent drop the tanks. I know the tank selector doesnt work and I will be working my way back. I want to say yes, once I drop the trans to replace it with the new one, I will look and see if the line is at least running back there.

 

[Bextreme04]

Hello, Im thinking switching to a electric fuel pump to help stop vapor lock after the engine runs. Currently have a mechanical three port one and once the engine gets warmed up and you shut if off to like get gas, I have to crank, crank, crank to get it started. I looked and read some forums that the little red or black electric edelbrocks are like a 50/50 (they work or dont). I just wanted to see what experience yall have and ran with? I would love to do the 87 tank swap with the pump in the tank but I currently dont have that $$, just got the transmission rebuilt. She has a fresh 383 build and a Holley 750 CFM carb.

It's unlikely that you are actually getting vapor lock with the symptoms you are reporting and the equipment you have. If it was vapor lock you would get an immediate start and then it would die after a few seconds once the fuel bowl ran out. There are a few things that could be causing your issue, but I would first be looking at making sure the carb is fully dialed in right. Hard hot starts are usually caused by flooding, will is start after a few cranks if you put the pedal to the floor and hold it while cranking under the same circumstances?

Make sure you have the float bowls height set correctly and the idle mix screws adjusted properly for a lean idle setting. Then make sure timing is right and that both the regular hot idle and cold idle are set right. What kind of choke does it have? Electric? Is it working right?

 

[Asgeir]

It's unlikely that you are actually getting vapor lock with the symptoms you are reporting and the equipment you have. If it was vapor lock you would get an immediate start and then it would die after a few seconds once the fuel bowl ran out. There are a few things that could be causing your issue, but I would first be looking at making sure the carb is fully dialed in right. Hard hot starts are usually caused by flooding, will is start after a few cranks if you put the pedal to the floor and hold it while cranking under the same circumstances?

Make sure you have the float bowls height set correctly and the idle mix screws adjusted properly for a lean idle setting. Then make sure timing is right and that both the regular hot idle and cold idle are set right. What kind of choke does it have? Electric? Is it working right?

It doesnt have a choke, I have not idea about setting a carb, have a buddy that did it with the vaccum gauge. Down the road, I want to get the sniper II. I will set about seeing if any old timers around my area can help with that.

 

[Matt69olds]

Are you SURE the float level is correct? It needs to be just below the sight glass window, if you shake the truck fuel should just dribble out the window.

Once you’re sure that’s good, drive the truck until the engine is good and hot, then shut it off. Wait a few minutes, check the float level again. If it’s gone up, your hot restart issue isn’t vapor lock, it’s more than likely flooding.

You say the pump is a 3 port, is the return line actually functional? Too many people think you can just cap that line and go. The return line is designed with a tiny orifice in the pump, its purpose is basically a controlled internal leak. The leak constantly circulate fuel thru the lines, pump, and back to the tank. It also vents fuel back to the tank after a hot shutdown. Without the return point, the hot fuel in the lines and pump will expand, possibly to the point where it can push the float off the seat, dumping fuel into the intake.

 

[dusterdude]

If you are using a qjet,its likely the gas is draining from the carb thru the well in the bottom of the carb.the aftermarket used to sell well plugs,not sure if they still do.

 

[Bextreme04]

It doesnt have a choke, I have not idea about setting a carb, have a buddy that did it with the vaccum gauge. Down the road, I want to get the sniper II. I will set about seeing if any old timers around my area can help with that.

We need to see some pics of this. What holley 750 is it? If you get the Sniper, then you might as well get the holley in-tank sender/pump kit at the same time. Until then, you aren't going to solve this problem with another pump in the mix.

 

[Matt69olds]

We need to see some pics of this. What holley 750 is it? If you get the Sniper, then you might as well get the holley in-tank sender/pump kit at the same time. Until then, you aren't going to solve this problem with another pump in the mix.

Without a doubt. Holley has enough quality control issues on their own, you don’t need the added headaches of an external fuel pump.

 

[squaredeal91]

If you are using a qjet,its likely the gas is draining from the carb thru the well in the bottom of the carb.the aftermarket used to sell well plugs,not sure if they still do.

I haven't seen any kits but basically you only need some Allen/ hex set screws and a couple thread taps and that's it.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Are you SURE the float level is correct? It needs to be just below the sight glass window, if you shake the truck fuel should just dribble out the window.

Once you’re sure that’s good, drive the truck until the engine is good and hot, then shut it off. Wait a few minutes, check the float level again. If it’s gone up, your hot restart issue isn’t vapor lock, it’s more than likely flooding.

You say the pump is a 3 port, is the return line actually functional? Too many people think you can just cap that line and go. The return line is designed with a tiny orifice in the pump, its purpose is basically a controlled internal leak. The leak constantly circulate fuel thru the lines, pump, and back to the tank. It also vents fuel back to the tank after a hot shutdown. Without the return point, the hot fuel in the lines and pump will expand, possibly to the point where it can push the float off the seat, dumping fuel into the intake.

i feel better about my answer that you concur with it

 

[Ricko1966]

My expierience with the little edelbrock pump wasn't good. I don't remember the details,it was over 10 years ago. The important part is it made it about 60 miles from my house and quit. The good news was I bought it from one of the big chains pulled it at roadside swapped it and finished my trip. So I put about 80 miles on pump number 2 and pulled it off,because I didn't trust it. As I said I can't remember all the details,but I am sure I would have mounted it low and by the tank. Can't remember if I ran deadhead or bypass. For a few years now I've been running an airtex pump blowing through a factory 3 line pump that has no pushrod behind it. This allows my to keep my bypass function. Pump is mounted low and by the tank. Which is where you are supposed to mount an electric pump.

 

[75gmck25]

Lots of good suggestions, and I agree that it’s probably not vapor lock.

If there is a return line, you have a 6 port tank solenoid. For now I would just bypass it and connect up the fuel line, return and vent for only one tank, and then continue troubleshooting.

You said you have no choke, so how much of the remaining carburetor choke linkage is still connected? When you get that initial good start, is the choke plate wide open or is it closed? In the colder weather I don’t think mine would get a decent cold start with no choke, and then it certainly would not idle until it was warm. When you have difficulty with a hot start, is the choke plate still wide open?

 

[geolee]

I have a small red edelbrock on my 84 and actually like it. I have it ran next to the tank and switch on and off also a inline fuse. I have had it on there for years without any problems. When you first use it just make sure not to run it dry cause it will burn up very quick. Only reason I got one is cause I have a 92 350 that doesn't have a provision for fuel pump push rod