Edelbrock 1405 carb running rich

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potent rodent

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i would get a new set of plugs like i said before those old plugs were nasty
 

iamtherealJayy

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Here’s a video of it idling at roughly 600 rpms according to the tach, which still freaks out for a few seconds before reading the rpm. It’s missing a lot and the rpm isn’t steady, is that just because it’s cold? When you get closer to the exhaust it sounds like it’s slightly backfiring. I shut the engine off to get on here and tell the latest and hopefully get ideas to make further progress. Also to warm up lol it’s 26° right now. Although with these R43TS plugs it fired instantly with no choke but it wouldn’t idle. It ran longer than the other plugs did lol. I turned up the choke screw for fast idle and closed the choke and it fired right back up. I also gapped the r43ts plugs to .045, the r44t plugs were all close ish to .035. I checked the gap for all the 43ts plugs and got them all within .001.
 

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Also, no I don’t have any friends that could loan me a carb all I’ve got is old dirt track car carbs.
 

Bextreme04

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Here’s a video of it idling at roughly 600 rpms according to the tach, which still freaks out for a few seconds before reading the rpm. It’s missing a lot and the rpm isn’t steady, is that just because it’s cold? When you get closer to the exhaust it sounds like it’s slightly backfiring. I shut the engine off to get on here and tell the latest and hopefully get ideas to make further progress. Also to warm up lol it’s 26° right now. Although with these R43TS plugs it fired instantly with no choke but it wouldn’t idle. It ran longer than the other plugs did lol. I turned up the choke screw for fast idle and closed the choke and it fired right back up. I also gapped the r43ts plugs to .045, the r44t plugs were all close ish to .035. I checked the gap for all the 43ts plugs and got them all within .001.
Sounds like the floats are sticking open. Once started definitely try and get the rpm up and get it warmed up! Does it smooth out at all at higher RPM? I would try and run it at the smoothest RPM I could find until warm. Then get it to idle and SET THE TIMING! You need to get the timing set ASAP! Fiddling with plugs, carb, everything else should come after you have the timing set correctly. Make sure you disconnect and plug the vacuum advance before doing that.
 

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I’m setting timing right now I’ve let it run and it did smooth out some, what should I set it at? 12? It’s slightly advanced right now.
 

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Did you check and set the float level?

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Bextreme04

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I’m setting timing right now I’ve let it run and it did smooth out some, what should I set it at? 12? It’s slightly advanced right now.
I would start at 8 or so. You want it to be about 32-35 total at ~3500RPM or so. At 8 degrees advanced it should run good, especially once you reconnect the vacuum advance.
 

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No I did not mess with them, they were both about a finger from the top, I couldn’t find a 7/16 drill bit. I planned on doing all that after if this carb is useable. Is the float level the reason it’s leaking around the throttle shaft?
To set total timing do I have to know what rpm it is or just when it stops increasing? My timing tab doesn’t go very far, maybe 12°. I have one of those fancy timing lights where it’s adjustable so how would I go about that?
 

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With the timing light I have I wasn’t able to set the total timing. But initial timing is at 10° according to my light. I’m not sure that’s correct though because it initially showed about 4° retarded and I’m not sure how I had it turned slightly advanced after redoing the distributor but it showed slightly retarded on the timing tab.
 

Bextreme04

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No I did not mess with them, they were both about a finger from the top, I couldn’t find a 7/16 drill bit. I planned on doing all that after if this carb is useable. Is the float level the reason it’s leaking around the throttle shaft?
To set total timing do I have to know what rpm it is or just when it stops increasing? My timing tab doesn’t go very far, maybe 12°. I have one of those fancy timing lights where it’s adjustable so how would I go about that?
I would just set initial at 8 and leave it until you get everything else figured out. If you really want to set it off total, you would just throttle it up until it stops advancing. Dial the timing light to around 34 degrees and then throttle it up until you see the timing mark. Once you see it stop moving with RPM increase, you would move the distributor until the timing mark lines up with 0 on the tab.
 

Bextreme04

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With the timing light I have I wasn’t able to set the total timing. But initial timing is at 10° according to my light. I’m not sure that’s correct though because it initially showed about 4° retarded and I’m not sure how I had it turned slightly advanced after redoing the distributor but it showed slightly retarded on the timing tab.
That should be fine. You said your dad had been moving it around. I'd leave it at that and move on to trying to figure out your other issues
 

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With timing at around 10° the manifold vacuum was around 16 inHg I turned in the idle mixture screws equally and got up to 18 inHg the truck is currently idling around 700 rpm. I’m not sure if it’s currently running rich, I don’t smell fuel and it’s not backfiring unless you hold throttle pretty much wide open and just let off, then it pops a little. I need to get a choke cable bracket installed and take it for a test drive. After I finish putting the inside back together… I’m uploading video of it running right now will post the link
 

iamtherealJayy

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Here’s a video of idling and a hefty rev.
Edit: is the pop just because I haven’t finished the exhaust? Also anyone got some good muffler recommendations lol. As good as it sounds wide open straight piped I don’t wanna be popping going down the road. Also idle sounds not so good either.
 

Bextreme04

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Here’s a video of idling and a hefty rev.
Edit: is the pop just because I haven’t finished the exhaust? Also anyone got some good muffler recommendations lol. As good as it sounds wide open straight piped I don’t wanna be popping going down the road. Also idle sounds not so good either.
That sounds WAY better! The popping after letting off is pretty standard for no exhaust. It still doesn't sound perfect, but its good enough to drive it and get it dialed in. With it only getting down to 18" I'd bet you are still running rich. I'd go take it around the block and see if you can blow the carbon and fuel out of the cylinders now that it is firing right. Then check everything again after you come back. Maybe pull a plug and see if it is still wet. If it is still wet with fuel, I'd say start messing with one thing at a time starting with the float level.
 

iamtherealJayy

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I need to find the correct filler neck so I can put more fuel in the truck and put the seat in and I’ll drive it down the road later. The current filler cap is like one of the bedside that doesn’t have a fuel door but the bed is one with a fuel door. So it’s angled all wrong and I have to use a funnel but my funnel had a crack last night and got gasoline all over my amazing(not really) paint job lol. If it is still running rich could that be the float level incorrect? Or should I purchase a different set of jets/rods. The last set I got the line wrong and ended up getting the wrong set lol. My error no ones fault but my own. So it did end up leaner than anticipated. Bextreme I’ll try and figure out how to private message you if I can’t find a closer choke cable bracket. Although it fired right up, rough but idled, with the other plugs. I’ll look into getting a new set of the ts plugs after I know it’s not running rich and won’t foul my plugs.
 

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