Dual carburetors on 250 I-6?

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DoubleDingo

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You can buy the head pre-lumped from MrHotRod6. You don't have to enlarge the valves right away, you can leave it with stock valves and still see some gains. If later on you decided to have bigger valves put in, you could install your stock head and run it while the work was being done.

I am with you on there being so many paths to take. That is why it has taken me so long to acquire all my parts for the direction I chose on my 292. I now have 99% of the parts, but will have an engine that will run way better than stock. I still need to get the rod bearings and main bearings, and check the bores. I may still need pistons, or I may be able to leave the stock ones in there. But I tossed around the Clifford/Weber setup. The Offenhauser. The Aussie Speed. Quadrajet. Holley. 2G. Quadrajet. Holley. 2G. Holley 2G Sniper EFI. Quadrajet. I waffled all over the place. Then which cam to go with the improved air flow but maintain good low end while improving the cruise mid-range and a cam that plays nice with the valve train. Then I'd go to buy the parts and 12Bolt would be sold out. This year when I saw they were available I jumped on them quickly and soon saw what I ordered had sold out. Didn't matter, I got mine for my project. I was actually set on buying the Offenhauser, there is a local shop an hour away that sells them. I missed calling them by one minute before they closed. That same night I was browsing ebay and saw the Aussie Speed. It was cheaper than the Offy, and what I actually wanted all along, I just didn't want to spend the money on shipping to the states, and the aussie intake I found was from mrhotrod6 out of Florida. One thing I like about the aussie is it doesn't require an adapter plate to run a Holley. So to run a Q-Jet I just need a squarebore-to-spreadbore adapter if I later choose to run a Q-Jet. And, with the 2G adapter I had made for the aussie, if I decide to spend the money on a 2G sniper efi, I have the adapter for it. I bought parts that allowed me to have options down the road without having to buy a new intake. Only thing I can recommend is pick the path and stick with it. You can always buy more parts to improve upon what you already bought and only take a day or weekend for the upgrade.
 

AuroraGirl

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If you find a need for monojet or dualjets or somehow an intake for a varajet or even 2 jets I have too many of them. I only have one monojet tho. The varajet is the smaller 4 cylinder engine carb I think and dualjets are the 79 on 2 barrels for v8 and v6 that are the front half of a quadrajet and the 2 jets are the old circular 2 barrels that would have came on cars and trucks before 80 I think
 

JohnTaurus

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I'm strongly leaning towards a new Clifford 6=8 intake, with their adaptor and a single Weber 38 2bbl carburetor.
Opinions on this setup?
My goals are reliability, daily driveability with decent performance for what it is. I don't expect to run with a 5.0L Mustang, just get up to (and maintain) speed in a reasonable manner and deliver acceptable fuel economy.
I'm liking the lower complexity of having a single carburetor vs. duals. Thanks to doubledingo for pointing me towards Clifford.
I emailed both Tom at 12bolt and Larry at Clifford, hope to hear back soon with suggestions.
 

AuroraGirl

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I'm strongly leaning towards a new Clifford 6=8 intake, with their adaptor and a single Weber 38 2bbl carburetor.
Opinions on this setup?
My goals are reliability, daily driveability with decent performance for what it is. I don't expect to run with a 5.0L Mustang, just get up to (and maintain) speed in a reasonable manner and deliver acceptable fuel economy.
I'm liking the lower complexity of having a single carburetor vs. duals. Thanks to doubledingo for pointing me towards Clifford.
I emailed both Tom at 12bolt and Larry at Clifford, hope to hear back soon with suggestions.
If you do find yourself needing more than one 2 barrel Rochester I’ll prob be stuck with em for a while so feel free to holler if you need
 

JohnTaurus

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If you do find yourself needing more than one 2 barrel Rochester I’ll prob be stuck with em for a while so feel free to holler if you need

Thank you. Btw are you into Oldsmobile Auroras, or is your screen name something else? Just curious, because I'm a huge fan of the first generation, 95-99.
 

AuroraGirl

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Thank you. Btw are you into Oldsmobile Auroras, or is your screen name something else? Just curious, because I'm a huge fan of the first generation, 95-99.
Well what a coincidence, if you are interested you could show your appreciation and do my brake lines or buy the kit from inline tube lol


Joking. But this was my life yesterday. Haven’t moved it in over a year, put a battery and fired right up, but wheel is locked...it won’t budge and I moved far lol. It’s gonna help me drive it down hill to my garage since it will be my functional brake. And reverse.
It needs a bit

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AuroraGirl

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my first aurora was a 2001. Rip. Current is a 99

so yes, it’s a reference to the aurora from Oldsmobile lol
 

JohnTaurus

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Its beautiful. I have driven them but never owned one. The closest one in my price range in decent condition is like 6 hours away...or I'd be in the cozy confines of an Olds right now.
 

AuroraGirl

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Its beautiful. I have driven them but never owned one. The closest one in my price range in decent condition is like 6 hours away...or I'd be in the cozy confines of an Olds right now.
Let me tell ya something, if you can handle the headache of waiting for parts every time it needs something, and you have a little self hating tendencies then you’d love it. It’s got the substantial feel of a park avenue but the allure and sleek, sporty feel. And if you get the right suspension components it’s may weigh 4000 but it handles roads very firmly and assuredly. Also power helps. And highpeed li,it from factory.
Premium gas hurts a bit.
But I’ve been pumping premium into 4/5 of what I pump gas into for 3 years about so I’m used to it.

also, don’t get a 97.
2001-2003 are fine, they have the same wheel base and suspension as a 99, but they are.. cheaper interiors plastics break. In wisconsin it’s horrendous. Maybe the south wouldn’t be bad. The 2001-2003 have a real late 2000s feel, ahead of their time. 99 has a very timeless de sign but interior shows it’s age a tiny bit. Still holds well
 

AuroraGirl

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Its beautiful. I have driven them but never owned one. The closest one in my price range in decent condition is like 6 hours away...or I'd be in the cozy confines of an Olds right now.
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this is what happened to my first car. Rip subframe to unibody rust
 

JohnTaurus

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Oh yeah, i know that living in the rust belt would torture me. Kicking around in the used-car-starved South is bad enough, having spent my early adulthood in The Land Of Plentiful Cheap Interesting Cars, aka Washington state.

I am a sucker for underappreciated cars that are not worth on paper what I spend on them, i think that is what constitutes an enthusiast, in some respects, haha.

My baby (aside from the C10) is a 1995 Ford Taurus that I drove for many years. It shows its 250k+ miles, but the engine, transmission and body are still very good, so its parked awaiting replacement of things like a weak brake master cylinder, and leaky timing cover and power steering system. It's still movable around the property, but because the coolant hoses are disconnected, I only run it for a few seconds at a time.

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DoubleDingo

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Carb'ed Vortec 350
Either the Weber 32 or 38. If I recall he jets them to work with his intake and engine size.

And I've heard the Weber's are good reliable carbs. Not cheap, but reliable
 

JohnTaurus

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Either the Weber 32 or 38. If I recall he jets them to work with his intake and engine size.

And I've heard the Weber's are good reliable carbs. Not cheap, but reliable

Thanks!


Would I also need an electric fuel pump? If so, that's a shame because I just installed a new OEM fuel pump late last year.
 

DoubleDingo

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Thanks!


Would I also need an electric fuel pump? If so, that's a shame because I just installed a new OEM fuel pump late last year.

Not sure. I think all depends on what pressure they need to run at. But being a carb, the OEM pump should work. Hopefully someone with more knowledge on that subject will chime in.
 

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