Driver side door adjustment

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bigcountry78

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Does anyone have any tips on getting my driver door to line up any better? I think I’ve gotten as much adjustment out of the hinge that I can get, but I still have a gap at the top that is allowing rain to leak in. The door is also dragging just a little bit, making it hard to close. Hinge pins and hinges are in good shape. I have seen body shops use a tool to pry up on the door to line everything up after replacing hinge pins. Is that a good idea, or just a temporary fix?

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73c20jim

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My mechanic wold do it with a length of wood as a prybar.
 

WFO

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Have you checked the hinge pin bushings?
Plus, that striker would need to be adjusted up.
 

bigcountry78

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Have you checked the hinge pin bushings?
Plus, that striker would need to be adjusted up.
Hinge pins were done not very long ago. There is zero play in the hinge area. I think the striker will be ok, it’s barely latching as is. Plenty of room for the door to come up before the striker would need to be moved I think.
 

bucket

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If the rear door gap is even the whole way, then the door needs to slide up, whether it be from moving the door on the hinges or the hinges on the cab.

If the rear door gap is tight at the top, then the top hinge needs moved forward on the cab.

You can use a bar to tweak the door up at the back, but in my experience, that doesn't last at all with these doors because they will just settle back in place from the weight of the door. The front of the door shell could stand to be a little more beefy.
 

bigcountry78

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Can the hinges be adjusted? I was thinking they are welded in place, but maybe that’s not the case? I was thinking about trying some big flat washers on the bottom hinge, but I’d rather fix it right.
 

bucket

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Can the hinges be adjusted? I was thinking they are welded in place, but maybe that’s not the case? I was thinking about trying some big flat washers on the bottom hinge, but I’d rather fix it right.

Yeah, there's room for adjustment where they bolt to the body. You can use flat washers at the bottom, but only if the rear gap is wide enough at the bottom to allow for it.
 

bigcountry78

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Yeah, there's room for adjustment where they bolt to the body. You can use flat washers at the bottom, but only if the rear gap is wide enough at the bottom to allow for it.
Ok so I can loosen the hinge bolt and slide it forward then. I think I have enough gap to at least improve the situation. Then I guess I’ll have to readjust the fender gap too.
 

disenough

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You can adjust the fender when you put it back on. I don't think you can get to all the bolts without taking the fender off.
Also there is 1 bolt on the inside of the cab above the parking brake that is hard to get to.
 

trukman1

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You can adjust the fender when you put it back on. I don't think you can get to all the bolts without taking the fender off.
Also there is 1 bolt on the inside of the cab above the parking brake that is hard to get to.

There is at least one video on You Tube that show where the inside bolts are located. Sure fooled me when I watched one! There is a plastic plug over it if someone hasn't done it before without replacing it.
 

bigcountry78

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I was able to adjust the hinge without removing the fender, but I did have to remove the door. It was a lot easier to do that by myself, but it still wasn’t much fun. The door now seals better, and the boxy line is closer. Still not perfect, but it will do. The door doesn’t drag either. And I don’t know what dope smoking wing nut decided to put that one bolt in from the inside but that dude is a moron. It did have a cap over it. Anyway it’s where I can live with it now. Thanks for the help guys, this place is a life saver.

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