drive shaft hits crossmember

[skysurfer]

You're dropping the crossmember, not the t/c itself. And you don't need anything that fancy, the bits that RC supplied with my kit were simply 4 pieces of thick-walled pipe measuring 3/4" o.d. X 1" tall. Placed between the crossmember and the frame with longer bolts, they provide more driveline clearance.

 

[McCSquare]

Doesn't that put a lot more stress on the bolts and the holes in the frame? Normally you have the whole edge/face of the crossmember contacting the frame to distribute force.

 

[skysurfer]

Maybe, but I've been running it that way for ten years without issue and my truck works hard. Lots of steep offroad use carrying more than 3000 lbs. If it were going to fail it should of by now.

I've seen some other kits come with a solid piece of steel instead of individual bits, you can use those if you're not sure about it.

 

[McCSquare]

Maybe, but I've been running it that way for ten years without issue and my truck works hard. Lots of steep offroad use carrying more than 3000 lbs. If it were going to fail it should of by now.

I've seen some other kits come with a solid piece of steel instead of individual bits, you can use those if you're not sure about it.

Glad to hear they have held up. Keyboard engineering isn't as important as long term field testing. The kit that RC currently sells looks like a composite material, with a few holes in it. Do you know who else sells these kits?

 

[skysurfer]

Do you know who else sells these kits?

http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/10702-gmc-jimmy.html

Rancho also sells a kit but it's $33. http://www.amazon.com/Rancho-RS6641...-1&keywords=rancho+transfer+case+lowering+kit


You could easily make your own with a 8" piece of 1" thick bar stock. Cut in half, drill four holes, paint, done.