Double Dingo's 1965 3/4 Ton "Crusty Biscuit"

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Catbox

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461
There was a point where I wanted to do all that stuff to the 235 in my Bel Air.
But then I priced it out and I shelved that idea.

I am happy to see there are those out there that still like the straight sixes.
Looking forward to the photos of the fancy engine stuff...
 

squaredeal91

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5.9 Cummins 12 valve
My first truck was a 1966 c20. I bought when I was 14. I still have it and every year on or around my birthday I do something to it lol. Happens to be tomorrow. So today I'm starting on cleaning up in front of it to pull it out and do some much tlc. New starter and changing water pump.
 

DoubleDingo

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81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s
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Carb'ed Vortec 350
For me, I got the engine and planned to just run it. But, after I bought some parts, decided it would be best to clean up the block, honed the bores, and redo the lumped head properly. I still have the factory head in the event I want to have it redone as a backup.

It ran me 2k for the machine work. I have not tallied the parts and don't plan to. I really don't want to know...lol... I bought them before inflation hit because I knew FJB would eff things up and my wife agreed to me buying things while the buying was good.

I now need to do a thorough inventory of parts and see where I stand for doing the engine assembly. I think I have everything to assemble it, but may need to get a few more odds and ends.
 

78C10BigTen

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There was a point where I wanted to do all that stuff to the 235 in my Bel Air.
But then I priced it out and I shelved that idea.

I am happy to see there are those out there that still like the straight sixes.
Looking forward to the photos of the fancy engine stuff...
Id like to hop up a 250 IL six and put it in my square! They have a soft spot in my heart right nexta the 73 c10 stepper! (Bare bones, all manual)
 

squaredeal91

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5.9 Cummins 12 valve
Growing up My friends dad was an engine builder and a really good too. Once he built a 300 Ford for someone and it was nasty! Had so much compressionit wouldn't start. Good thing it was a manual because it had to be pull started to do initial break in. After that it would start with a starter with a super fresh battery. I put a 250 into my first 4x4 and I still have it and always wanted to build a nasty 250 sometime.
 

rusted nuts

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Thanks.

Do any of you have any knowledge of aftermarket overdrive units? This is odd, let off the throttle and the engine drops down to idle because the truck is freewheeling. I can drop it into 1st gear while coasting no matter what speed I'm doing and it has no effect. The clutch is good, no slipping. I can mash the throttle and the truck will take off but let off the throttle and there absolutely no engine braking whatsoever. I have never experienced this in any vehicle I've driven. Even an automatic transmission has engine braking if you downshift or let off the throttle. I hate relying solely on the brakes to stop. And going down a steep grade I would have to ride the brakes, which is not wise, but without engine braking there would be no other option. If I can't figure this issue out, I will be forced to yank out the transmission with the overdrive and add one of my other transmissions so I can have engine braking. I am sure there is a way to fix this freewheeling issue without replacing the whole transmission.
 

rusted nuts

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Here's some shots of the transmission and the attached overdrive unit...

As I was uploading photos I got a call from Gear Vendor's. I left a message with them Saturday afternoon in hopes they could help diagnose the problem that is causing the freewheeling with the OD unit disengaged. It sure is nice having overdrive, but that freewheeling crap has to go. Luckily with it engaged the truck acts normal, I just have to make sure I disengage it before coming to a stop and for sure before trying to back up because then you cannot get into reverse, and if you do you cannot move the truck period. Before I called GV on Saturday I turned off the truck with it in 1st gear and left the e-brake off, I was able to roll the truck forward no problem but it wouldn't go backwards.
The old ford 3 speeds with over drive would freewheel when in overdrive But don't remember them not going in to reverse or problems with low gear I wonder if the clutch is cause part of Your problems
 

DoubleDingo

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Engine Size
Carb'ed Vortec 350
The old ford 3 speeds with over drive would freewheel when in overdrive But don't remember them not going in to reverse or problems with low gear I wonder if the clutch is cause part of Your problems
I figured it out soon after posting that. It was baptism by fire, so to speak. The po didn't show me how to use the od. Ironically, it would go into reverse at his house and during the test drive, but the test drive was short, and I didn't get going fast behind cars.
 

squaredeal91

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5.9 Cummins 12 valve
Dixie says she would like to see crusty back on the road again too. These trucks are such a cool part of GM history
 

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DoubleDingo

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Carb'ed Vortec 350
Dixie says she would like to see crusty back on the road again too. These trucks are such a cool part of GM history
Thank you Dixie. Dixie looks like a fine truck. If Crusty could be worked on in a garage or shop a lot more would get done on it.
 

HotRodPC

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Yesterday I finally got the engine block, flywheel, and head back from the machine shop. I will post up pics when I uncover it. I was hoping it would clean up at 0.20 over, but he bored it to 0.30 over. There was no ridge on the cylinder bores, which is why I thought it may clean up at 0.20. The head now has 1.94/1.60 valves, z28 springs, lumped ports, and screw-in studs. Sylvolite pistons with coated skirts, Hastings rings, and the rods I got from 12Bolt with ARP bolts installed, the rods were balanced to with a gram of each other, or something like that. Same with the crank, got that from 12Bolt as well, and it was balanced to within a gram.

Unfortunately the rain we got during the wintertime kept me from working on the truck, so now I have a lot more on my plate.
You'll be alright with the .030 over. It's not like .020 would save another build cuz in most cases, a block will never clean up at .010 and the .030 being much more common makes it easier to come up with parts and you can still have the .040 option if it would clean up at .010 and also the .060 which will be fine for that old of a block. Some of the newer 4in bores you really don't want to do the .060.
 

DoubleDingo

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You'll be alright with the .030 over. It's not like .020 would save another build cuz in most cases, a block will never clean up at .010 and the .030 being much more common makes it easier to come up with parts and you can still have the .040 option if it would clean up at .010 and also the .060 which will be fine for that old of a block. Some of the newer 4in bores you really don't want to do the .060.
I don't know if he checked to see if it would clean up at 0.020, or if he went straight to 0.030. I bought the dial bore dial gauge, but it sounded like I needed to get it up to him quickly or miss out on him doing the work, so it was a hurried disassembly. If I had known it was going to take him so long to do the work I would have measured the bores before taking it up to him so I knew where it stood and I could relay that info when I dropped it off. There wasn't even a ridge on the cylinders. The only thing I couldn't remove was the lifters. I left the cam in too because I didn't have time remove it. If I could have removed the cam I could have removed the lifters, but they would not pull up and out of their bores. Oh well, too late now. If I recall, having a 292 bored out 0.030 makes it a 302? Similar size to the GMC 302? I may be wrong. Either way it hopefully will run well and last a long time and be reliable as well.
 
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HotRodPC

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I don't know if he checked to see if it would clean up at 0.020, or if he went straight to 0.030. I bought the dial bore dial gauge, but it sounded like I needed to get it up to him quickly or miss out on him doing the work, so it was a hurried disassembly. If I had known it was going to take him so long to do the work I would have measured the bores before taking it up to him so I knew where it stood and I could relay that info when I dropped it off. There wasn't even a ridge on the cylinders. The only thing I couldn't remove was the lifters. I left the cam in too because I didn't have time remove it. If I could have removed the cam I could have removed the lifters, but they would not pull up and out of their bores. Oh well, too late now. If I recall, having a 292 bored out 0.030 makes it a 302? Similar size to the GMC 302? I may be wrong. Either way it hopefully will run well and last a long time and be reliable as well.
What size engine is it now? A 350 is a 355 at .030 over, so I'd guess a 327 to be about a 331 at .030.
 

DoubleDingo

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Engine Size
Carb'ed Vortec 350
What size engine is it now? A 350 is a 355 at .030 over, so I'd guess a 327 to be about a 331 at .030.
Rebuilding a 1966 292. It'll have an Aussie Speed Intake, Pontiac Sprint Quadrajet, the head has been lumped and mildly ported and gasket-matched. The cam is going to provide .43 lift. I need to degree the cam to see what all the specs are, but it's supposed to be one level above stock so it's supposed to still have good low end with better mid range. At least what's I've been told about the cam.
 

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