Door Replacement and Alignment Advice?

[Doppleganger]

I learned that quality control in this era sucks! No two doors are the same. If you're going to swap doors, don't bother marking anything as it will just take lots of time and effort (beer) to get them close to being right.

This has been my fear / suspicion. My drivers door had a slight 'push' just front of the door handle. I dont think it could have been fixed - was like a stretch in the steel that would pop in-out. I took one of those mending panels you get at a hardware store - 5x8 piece of steel with like 20 holes in it - and some 3M panel adhesive. Using some magnets from an old hard drive on the outside, I glued it inside the door to thicken and reinforce the stretched area. Worked very well. You can still get it to flex, but its solid now - is much stronger and straight like it originally was. So I think my original door is ok to keep, but they still need to come off to repaint / color change. I dread that.

 

[80BrownK10]

This has been my fear / suspicion. My drivers door had a slight 'push' just front of the door handle. I dont think it could have been fixed - was like a stretch in the steel that would pop in-out. I took one of those mending panels you get at a hardware store - 5x8 piece of steel with like 20 holes in it - and some 3M panel adhesive. Using some magnets from an old hard drive on the outside, I glued it inside the door to thicken and reinforce the stretched area. Worked very well. You can still get it to flex, but its solid now - is much stronger and straight like it originally was. So I think my original door is ok to keep, but they still need to come off to repaint / color change. I dread that.

You could cut the stretched part out and weld new metal into it. Or have someone do it.

 

[Doppleganger]

That would have been the outer skin on this whole area.

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It worked well and looks fine with the piece glued in. 3M panel adhesive has a 35mph crash test rating.

 

[SquareRoot]

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Any dent causes the metal to stretch resulting in the annoying "tin can effect."

The correct fix is to shrink it back into it's original shape. It's usually done with a torch and wet sponge. It's an art and not one I want to try to learn.

I recently saw a tool made specifically for this. It was some kind of flat disc that attaches to a right angle grinder. The guy just ran it back and forth on the dent causing it to heat up and then he quenched it and it eventually became unnoticeable.

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[Doppleganger]

It wasn't even a dent.....just an area that would pop (as in the slightest of bows) in-out. I saw an old G-body have the same thing on the tops of the front fenders from pushing down on them to show how firm the shocks were (first time gas shock install). Guy got underneath it with a wooden drumstick and got the areas to pop out....but if you pushed on them at all, they bowed down again.

Being this was right next to a door handle, the odds of it staying put was zero. It looks and works fine - probably shouldn't have even mentioned it. I just didn't want to have to find another door - sounds like aligning the originals is a PITA enough as it is.

 

[SquareRoot]

Ya, you shouldn't have mentioned it. Now you're committed! Lol

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[shiftpro]

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Any dent causes the metal to stretch resulting in the annoying "tin can effect."

The correct fix is to shrink it back into it's original shape. It's usually done with a torch and wet sponge. It's an art and not one I want to try to learn.

I recently saw a tool made specifically for this. It was some kind of flat disc that attaches to a right angle grinder. The guy just ran it back and forth on the dent causing it to heat up and then he quenched it and it eventually became unnoticeable.

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This is the proper fix and actually, it's not that difficult. Once you get it right, it all "Holy crap that was easy!". When you get it wrong it's like "**** me that sucks!".

 

[shiftpro]

My personal preference in hanging doors is to do it with the fender off, that way I can click the rear in on the striker, then start a bolt in each of the hinges, I can then get it lined up to the Pillar and then to the rocker, tighten them up and then fender on.

Something else I found out is that the striker can be accessed with the door closed and the door panel off, which eliminates the need for snugging it, gently opening the door and tightening it hoping it won't move.

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Absolutely the correct and only way to do it. Line up the doors to the cab focusing on the rear and bottom door gap. Then line the fender to the door. Try not to freak out that it's not perfect. THAT is the bigest challenge here..

 

[shiftpro]

Since someone brought it up I'll post link. This is the tool that I use for door springs. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-38384...ocphy=9033263&hvtargid=pla-569339804601&psc=1 Basically you shove it in the spring, tighten it down and remove the spring. I've had mine for probably 20 years (obviously I didn't get mine from amazon but it's the same brand), while I don't work at a body shop, I do use it at the shop and it has held up great.

Nice tool but it's for coil springs. Squares have the S spring and all you need is a big screwdriver and a little hammer. The next model after the squares, Gen 5 I believe, use the coil springs afaik.

 

[SquareRoot]

This is the proper fix and actually, it's not that difficult. Once you get it right, it all "Holy crap that was easy!". When you get it wrong it's like "**** me that sucks!".

That's why I won't try it. I know which side I'll end up on.

 

[SirRobyn0]

Nice tool but it's for coil springs. Squares have the S spring and all you need is a big screwdriver and a little hammer. The next model after the squares, Gen 5 I believe, use the coil springs afaik.

Oh crap you're right. LOL the later generation chevy's have the coil. I've worked on to many cars to keep them all straight in my head sometimes.

 

[legopnuematic]

Something noteworthy as well is if you replace the strikers, be sure to retain the shims that were with the old ones and not to mix them up. Even if you end up needing to change the shim stack, it makes it easier to have a starting point.

Also take the weatherstrip off, then you won't be fighting trying to compress it when aligning the door.

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[Burb restorer]

Here is the door dolly I made to help install all the doors for a 1987 Chevrolet Suburban. And, I made two alignment studs by cutting off the head of a bolt and grind down the smooth end to a taper and use a hacksaw to saw a small slot on the taper end (Just in case you need a screwdriver for the screw install/removal) and screw one stud in an upper hinge hole and one stud in a lower hinge hole on the door itself. This REALLY makes the job much easier. 23 months on this "Dante's Peak Suburban" and it's almost ready to drive.

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[AuroraGirl]

On the subject of door and hinge alignment, since my cab has a shot floor, crappy interior im not too worried about the door looking nice. I would, however, like the drivers door to latch with less force. It clearly sages down, which I figured was the pins but it sounds like it could be the latch or hinge. Is the latch easier to adjust or the hinge? And if the latch is easier, is it able to move a good amount or does it have limited area to move? If it can move about 1/4 inch it can match my door better... which Im fine with sag because its a plow truck, but it would be nice to secure the door.