door lock cylinder not working on passenger side

[75k20]

i have replaced the door lock cylinder with 2 different kits and both times the passenger side door will only turn 90 degrees to the left to lock it, but i’m unable to pull the key out in this position so i have to unlock it again in order to remove the key.

any ideas as of how to fix this?

 

[75k20]

i have replaced the door lock cylinder with 2 different kits and both times the passenger side door will only turn 90 degrees to the left to lock it, but i’m unable to pull the key out in this position so i have to unlock it again in order to remove the key.

any ideas as of how to fix this?

i should also note that i’m unable to push the lock down from inside the cab when the key isn’t inside the door cylinder, without the cylinder in the door, the lock moves freely up and down

 

[codfish]

Have you ever figured this out??

Having the exact same problem.

Codfish

 

[scrap--metal]

Assuming these are power locks? I don't have a sure solution, but something funny happens on my K10 sometimes that sounds related.

If I try to unlock the passenger side door, via the lock switch on my driver's door, while someone is trying to open the locked passenger door, the whole lock mechanism in that door gets stuck. The lock knob can't be lifted inside, the key in the door cylinder won't turn, and the power lock switch won't unlock it.

To get things functioning again, someone needs to push HARD on the outside of the door while pulling up on the lock knob inside the cab. I've unlocked it that way probably half a dozen times, and it functions normally afterward, but it's always a struggle.

Maybe pushing the door in and working the lock will fix your dilemma???

 

[codfish]

Yeah I’m not sure what’s going on with mine.

I had no keys when I bought mine. Bought a set of door lock tumblers. Both looked identical when I got them. Same as the originals. Swapped them out, pass side wouldn’t work, behaving EXACTLY as OP stated above.

Decided to swap them side to side, still only the pass side not working properly. If I unhook the cylinder from the door mechanism, I can lock and unlock it with the knob, but as soon as it’s hooked up, the knob is inoperable. Both cylinders function fine with the key with the mechanism in your hand.

 

[codfish]

And mine are NOT power locks. I was wondering if the mechanisms were different with power or manual locks.

 

[TotalyHucked]

Dang, I was gonna comment and say to try the other cylinder in the kit. I found out they're side specific when I replaced mine, but you already did that. The only thing I can really suggest is while the door panel is off, play with it and see if something is bound up. There may be a rod routed wrong in the door or something causing it to stick.

 

[codfish]

Hmm

Never really looked that hard at them but maybe two of the same were in the package???

Something to check I guess. Everything else seems silky smooth movement wise.

 

[fast 99]

Did you try spray lube on the latch assy?

 

[codfish]

Yeah lack of lube is definitely not the issue. Lots there.

Are the cylinders side specific? Possible both are for the drivers side I guess.

And do power and non power setups have the same cylinders?

Codfish

 

[Jgonick]

@codfish -Did y’all ever figure out what was wrong?

 

[codfish]

No sir

Never really thought about it since. But we’ve been using the truck A-LOT this summer and not being able to unlock the passenger side with the key as normal is a PITA.

I think I’m gonna order another set of locks. I’m wondering if the set I bought previously contained 2 locks for the driver’s side??

Again, I’m having the EXACT same issue as the original poster above.

Codfish

 

[Snoots]

Power and non-power use the same cylinders. There's just an extra 'link bar' from the power solenoid/motor to the latch/lock mechanism.
On another note, I've never thought that being a left or right side cylinder made any difference.

 

[TotalyHucked]

They are side specific, as I found out. I'm fuzzy on it now cuz that's been 4 years ago but I had the exact same issue. Replaced the driver's side first and the key would behave EXACTLY as the OP mentions. Tried the other cylinder out of the kit and it worked fine. Put the first cylinder in the pass door and it worked perfectly. Not sure what makes them side specific but they are

 

[codfish]

Ok thanks

Perhaps it’s the direction that the key turns?? Maybe?