Dome light door switches. How to change without twisting wire?

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MisterB

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My dome light works when I turn the headlight switch, but not when I open the doors. Both doors have switches.

I started by loosening the passenger side switch, but I could tell as I unscrewed it, I could hear the power wire twisting inside, and it almost seems like there's resistance there. I just stopped and screwed it back in, because I don't want to mess it up.

Sounds like I need two new door switches, but what's the procedure to remove and install the new ones so I don't twist the wire all around inside the door panel and have it snap off?

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TubeTruck

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Haha, I just did this not even an hour ago and had the same question. Inquiring minds want to know.. though my fine light doesn't work with my switch. I got some figuring to do.
 

80BrownK10

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I have never had an interior light. It's on my to-do list one day. It will probably start with the need for new switches.
 

Charlie

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I replaced mine not long ago. I connected wire, turned it counter clockwise for about 5 or 6 turns, then screwed in. Seemed to work ok.
 
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bucket

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I always just use a socket on them, but give them a backwards "pre-twist" before threading them in.
 

Blue Ox

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79Scott

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I'm having a slightly different issue. I replaced the bulb for the cargo light last night. The switch I have (I believe its oem on the pillar near the drivers head) only has an option for cargo light or dome light so I always have a light on.... Didn't have time to look at the dimmer switch or door switches yet
 

75gmck25

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IIRC, the way my cargo light switch works is that the dome light comes on with the door switch or headlight switch. Then, if the dome light is on and the cargo light switch is on, you get cargo light at the same time. The cargo light only comes on if the dome light is already on. And by the way, that cargo light bulb is really lame. It doesn't really do much to illuminate the bed.

I have another related question - I got new door switches when I purchased an add-on interior light kit (from LMC?), but the switches have a smaller diameter threaded part than the OEM switches in my '75. They just push right through the original hole My old switches are rusty and don't always work, so I'd like to use new switches. Has anyone run across true replacement switches that have the right thread size?

Bruce
 

TPISly-C10

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just change mine last week...the nuts is independant from the connector so don't be affraid to unbolt it! :)
 

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