Most aftermarket locking differentials (at least for my 14 bolt FF) are designed to bolt into an open differential, and the aftermarket ones work much better than the Gov-Lok. Look through some of the choices available from Summit racing. Not cheap, but they work well.
For maximum traction I would add a locking differential in the rear, and an air locker in the front. You want the front one switchable, or it would destroy tires while driving on pavement.
Gov- Lok G80 differentials have a bad reputation because they are designed to lock up when the wheel rpm is only about 200-300 rpm difference between the two rear wheels. At that point the centrifugal force moves the locking pawl out and it locks the two wheels. If you spin up the wheels quickly, the rpm difference will be much higher, and the locker may destroy itself as the pawl tries to lock the axles. It’s a “farm truck stuck in the mud” locker, not a “drag race on pavement ” locker.
Bruce