DISC BRAKE COVERSION

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Powerhouse Ranch

3G Connoisseur
Joined
Jan 6, 2021
Posts
1,464
Reaction score
2,609
Location
PA
First Name
Luke
Truck Year
1980 & 1988
Truck Model
C25 & V15
Engine Size
454 & 350
How do we feel about converting the rear axle drum brakes to disc brakes and what would be the best kit to buy?

P.S. Is this only limited to 1/2 tons? (LMC only sells for 1/2 ton applications)
 
Last edited:

Bextreme04

Full Access Member
Joined
May 13, 2019
Posts
4,438
Reaction score
5,570
Location
Oregon
First Name
Eric
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K25
Engine Size
350-4bbl
I know its popular on the 14 bolts in 3/4 and 1 tons. I honestly feel it is much more appropriate and worthwhile in the 1/2 tons. The 14 bolt drum brakes work awesome, but are pretty heavy. I think the whole axle is something like 800lbs though, so saving a few hundred going to less functional brakes probably doesn't do much for a daily driver. If you are just trail running it then sure.
 

77 K20

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Posts
3,101
Reaction score
3,119
Location
Montana
First Name
Mike
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
K20 5" lift
Engine Size
HT383 fuel injected
I did a rear brake conversion on my K20. My rear drums had filled up with mud a few times from water crossings, and since I don't have a good crawl ratio some of the trails I went down I had to ride the brake the whole time. Once drums get hot they won't cool down for a long time.

Disc brakes fixed those issues- but still aren't perfect for me. Had issues with the rear brakes wanting to lockup before the front ones. Ended up having to add a manual brake proportional valve to the rear.

I also no longer have a parking brake.
 

Nonstop

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2014
Posts
775
Reaction score
2,420
Location
Ca
First Name
Nick
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K2500
Engine Size
454
I converted to rear discs with Cadillac calipers. I then replaced them with 3/4 ton front calipers and lost my parking brake. I then converted back to drum rear brakes - 13x3.5 and was happy as a clam and got a parking brake back!
 

Bextreme04

Full Access Member
Joined
May 13, 2019
Posts
4,438
Reaction score
5,570
Location
Oregon
First Name
Eric
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K25
Engine Size
350-4bbl
I did a rear brake conversion on my K20. My rear drums had filled up with mud a few times from water crossings, and since I don't have a good crawl ratio some of the trails I went down I had to ride the brake the whole time. Once drums get hot they won't cool down for a long time.

Disc brakes fixed those issues- but still aren't perfect for me. Had issues with the rear brakes wanting to lockup before the front ones. Ended up having to add a manual brake proportional valve to the rear.

I also no longer have a parking brake.
ORD does now have the caliper kits with parking brake. They didn’t used to.
 

eskimomann209

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Posts
1,849
Reaction score
2,005
Location
Modesto
First Name
Marcus
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
5.3
I don’t wanna give up my 15” rims. Otherwise I might have considered it.
 

Ricko1966

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2017
Posts
5,371
Reaction score
8,567
Location
kansas
First Name
Rick
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
How do we feel about converting the rear axle drum brakes to disc brakes and what would be the best kit to buy?

P.S. Is this only limited to 1/2 tons? (LMC only sells for 1/2 ton applications)

I did a rear brake conversion on my K20. My rear drums had filled up with mud a few times from water crossings, and since I don't have a good crawl ratio some of the trails I went down I had to ride the brake the whole time. Once drums get hot they won't cool down for a long time.

Disc brakes fixed those issues- but still aren't perfect for me. Had issues with the rear brakes wanting to lockup before the front ones. Ended up having to add a manual brake proportional valve to the rear.

I also no longer have a parking brake.

You can cut holes in the backing plate with a hole saw,to let dirt, mud and water escape the from the drums on off-road rigs.
 
Last edited:

Curt

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2017
Posts
676
Reaction score
1,141
Location
Loco Hills
First Name
Curt
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K-30
Engine Size
383
I like my disk brakes.Brake jobs are much easier,much faster.I like wrench on squarebody trucks,but drum brakes is not one of my favorites.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

Powerhouse Ranch

3G Connoisseur
Joined
Jan 6, 2021
Posts
1,464
Reaction score
2,609
Location
PA
First Name
Luke
Truck Year
1980 & 1988
Truck Model
C25 & V15
Engine Size
454 & 350
I like my disk brakes.Brake jobs are much easier,much faster.I like wrench on squarebody trucks,but drum brakes is not one of my favorites.

You must be registered for see images attach

not a bad idea and not a bad rig (your driveshaft is missing haha)
 

Bennyt

Full Access Member
Joined
May 17, 2019
Posts
1,188
Reaction score
1,824
Location
Surprise
First Name
Ben
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
All this is my opinion and you can tell me to suck it if you like. Half of the cars/trucks I build I do rear conversions, but only if it adds up.

Other than wet environment there is almost no benefit on the rear.

Pros:
Easier to change pads then drums

Possible braking improvement but since your rears do about 30-40% of the braking and unless you are upgrading to a 14" rotor and 4-6 piston $3k rear set-up, you'll only get a maybe a 10-20% over a drum, the net return will be maybe, maybe 3-5% better. Only in the right environment. If you tow, you'll overheat a small pad much quicker than a large shoe.

Cons:
Ineffective parking brake on most set-ups.

Rear disc suffers from knock back issues unless it's a full float. Have to drag or pump brakes to keep pad to disc if road racing.

Reduced gas mileage. Disc brakes usually outweigh drums when you add up bracket, calliper, rotor. Increased unsprung weight and more rolling resistance as pads frequently in contact.

Increased lining changes. How often you change shoes vs. Pads? I would bet 2-3x as much.



Racing-yes
Off-road only-yes
Rain every day and you don't know how to pump-yes

Daily driver-no

If it's a 1/2 ton. Better return is the larger 1/2 ton drum set-up. Increased performance without all the hassle. Cost $50-100 at junkyard and another $100 for all new parts for it.
 

Bennyt

Full Access Member
Joined
May 17, 2019
Posts
1,188
Reaction score
1,824
Location
Surprise
First Name
Ben
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
Maybe disks weigh more on a 1/2 ton axle,not sure,but I know I’m about 75 lbs lighter on the full float 14 bolt with out drums...

I agree and with 14b FF every part is heavy so switching to discs makes sense. Also, the rotor that is swapped is larger than what is used on the 1/2 ton. But I haven't seen a caddy caliper set-up that I trust with the parking brake. The stock pedal simply does not take up enough movement in the cable. Adding a ratcheting handle or an e-stopp makes it safer.
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
30,396
Reaction score
28,178
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
All this is my opinion and you can tell me to suck it if you like. Half of the cars/trucks I build I do rear conversions, but only if it adds up.

Other than wet environment there is almost no benefit on the rear.

Pros:
Easier to change pads then drums

Possible braking improvement but since your rears do about 30-40% of the braking and unless you are upgrading to a 14" rotor and 4-6 piston $3k rear set-up, you'll only get a maybe a 10-20% over a drum, the net return will be maybe, maybe 3-5% better. Only in the right environment. If you tow, you'll overheat a small pad much quicker than a large shoe.

Cons:
Ineffective parking brake on most set-ups.

Rear disc suffers from knock back issues unless it's a full float. Have to drag or pump brakes to keep pad to disc if road racing.

Reduced gas mileage. Disc brakes usually outweigh drums when you add up bracket, calliper, rotor. Increased unsprung weight and more rolling resistance as pads frequently in contact.

Increased lining changes. How often you change shoes vs. Pads? I would bet 2-3x as much.



Racing-yes
Off-road only-yes
Rain every day and you don't know how to pump-yes

Daily driver-no

If it's a 1/2 ton. Better return is the larger 1/2 ton drum set-up. Increased performance without all the hassle. Cost $50-100 at junkyard and another $100 for all new parts for it.

All good points, but one thing worth mentioning is modulation. On bigger 4x4 trucks with large tires it's not so much of an issue, but with smaller tires it tends to be easier to modulate the rear brakes in a panic stop with discs.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,067
Posts
948,702
Members
36,134
Latest member
gtewolf79
Top