Dads 92 astro wont start

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woodsrider250

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We conveniently get 10% HEET added to all of our fuel...for 'free' ;) I let my old 96 Burb sit with a half tank for 6mos, and the 10% ethanol absorbed/turned completely to water. I added two 1/5ths of everclear, and 5 gals of fresh gas, and it was able to run just barely enough to burn the tank through. Have never left a tank with E10 in it sit without being full since.
 

89Suburban

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No engine light or codes?
 

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The only code we got was a lean 02 code all the other codes was from us unplugging stuff.
swapped in the injectors from the 5.7 tb I have and we couldnt see a spray from them but it ran off what was leaking around the o-rings.
 

roadtriper

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We used a chunk of hose on the end of the feed line at the tb and got 18-19 psi.

Is there any sensors that could affect this or possibly a bad signal from the ecu?

18-19 dead head pressure is good . do you have a Noid light? if not you can use a test light the injectors should have key on bat voltage on one pin and the ECM controls the ground side on the oposite pin. if you have Keyed Bat Voltage on one side take your test light between the other side of the connector and bat+ crank the engine and see if the test light blinks. if the light blinks it means the ecm is triggering the injector.
 

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Red and white injector plug wires are the positives, and the blue and green wires are the negative triggers. should be able to feel them click when it cranked over too. I am thinking there may be a blockage in thebthrottle body.
If the injectors are dripping, and they are not firing, you need to rebuild the throttl body and replace the O rings.
 
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bucket

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I once had a customer with an Astro that towed the van in because it would no longer start after running very poorly for a while. Both injectors were bad. Apparently they were driving around with a bad injector and then finally the second injector finally quit. Maybe a similar issue here?

As for your fuel leakage past the o-rings, I've seen those rebuild kits come with instructions that include an incorrect parts diagram. If you followed the instructions, that might be your problem. Or you just pinched one.
 

notverrysmart

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Ill give the test light a try tomorrow.
as for the re-build there was no leak until we swapped the injectors with the ones from the 5.7 tb that I have my guess is the upper o-ring got pinched when we did the swap cuz we just removed the top piece and were between the seats doing the swap.

so now we are leaning towards bad injectors possibly as bucket said, one was bad then the second went, but it was running smoothly for the most part just had the hard starts that was "fixed" by new cap rotor and plug wires. But idk for sure cuz its not my van so idk how it was running for sure just by what my dad says.
 

bucket

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But idk for sure cuz its not my van so idk how it was running for sure just by what my dad says.

That always makes it difficult too. People don't always have an accurate description of what actually happened, or sometimes they are just unobservant of what was happening before the crap hit the fan.
 

notverrysmart

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Ya isnt that the truth lol, I trust what he says though, he is usually pretty observant, and the couple times I rode in it from what little attention I was paying it ran pretty smooth.
 

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we have a 97 sebring my wife drove it home ran fine next day wouldn't start i thought fuel pump . ended up being a sensor. i think mechanic said it was the camshaft sensor
 

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we have a 97 sebring my wife drove it home ran fine next day wouldn't start i thought fuel pump . ended up being a sensor. i think mechanic said it was the camshaft sensor

Should have thrown a code saying it was the sensor. Most cars cant self diagnose a fuel system issue, unless it is electrical.
 

bucket

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we have a 97 sebring my wife drove it home ran fine next day wouldn't start i thought fuel pump . ended up being a sensor. i think mechanic said it was the camshaft sensor

Very common. Did you get a new sensor from the dealer I hope? The aftermarket sensors often fail early in life and can also cause driveability issues.

Should have thrown a code saying it was the sensor. Most cars cant self diagnose a fuel system issue, unless it is electrical.

Usually not on those. You have to put the scanner on it and check for cam and crank signal and also make sure they are in sync. Often there is cooked/oil soaked wiring and shorted wires too.
 

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The only non OEM sensors I ever use is Airtex/wells....The best stuff in a pinch.
 

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it was just an idea, i'm no mechanic, lol as everyone can tell . i think the sensor was a autoz*ne lifetime my mechanic didn't charge much to put it one . i told him what i checked. he guessed that's what it was, runs great. the main reason i bought a older sb no sensor's my f150 had sensors always going out .
 

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