Crate SBC 350 installation plan

[BlazerBill]

I’m prepping to install a new complete turn key GM crate SP350 (385HP/405TQ) engine into my ‘83 K5 that I have (almost) finished with the multi-year restoration on and would like to get y’all’s final recommendations on the engine install plan/idea before I get started. Things to note: I am doing the work by myself but can get help, if needed but it may not be right away that any help would be here to help me. So, I’ll need to take the fastest, easiest and safest approach. I have a hoist, transmission jack, lift jack, an engine hoist, engine leveler/chains, an engine stand and an engine lift bracket that mounts to the intake manifold. I’m working in my very hot garage and will have to have the Blazer front end just inside the garage and the eng/trans/hoist inside the garage for smooth concrete to roll the hoist forward. I removed the entire radiator core support for more direct installation (the fenders and wheel wheels are still in place). All the new engine accessories, pulleys, carb, brackets, starter, etc. have not been installed. My initial thought is to mate the core engine to the completely rebuilt 700R4 and install the combo first using just the hoist and the manifold lift bracket since I can go almost straight into the engine compartment. Doing it this way will eliminate the additional weight making it easier for me to man-handle the eng/trans and hoist
and will eliminate all the accessories from getting caught on things. Then I would install the accessories from the open front end and the starter from underneath since I have plenty of headroom under the 4” suspension lift. Now for my questions. Is this the best approach considering my situation and limitations? I don’t yet have the new trans lines but should I buy/install them onto the trans before installing the eng/trans combo? Trans dipstick: install before or after eng/trans combo install? I am considering exhaust manifolds over headers. Should I install them before or after engine install? What else should I do before I get started? Any other recommendations? I provided a picture of the complete turn key SP350 engine but again, I have not yet installed the front accessories. Only the distributor is installed. Another reason for using the manifold lift bracket instead of the leveler and chains is to eliminate the need to remove the distributor and also since I’ll be able to go almost straight in with the eng/trans I don’t risk damaging the distributor. Thank you, so much, for your guidance, once again!!!

 

[ali_c20]

Sounds like a good plan to me. I would install the dipstick tube and cooler lines before you put it all in. Just take care that the lines don't get caught or pinched during installation. Exhaust manifolds and everything else after. My 0,02$

 

[75gmck25]

So this is a 2WD Blazer?

Just checking, since on a 4WD you usually install the transfer case and transmission first, and then drop in the engine.

On my K25 I bolted everything on the engine except the carburetor, and then dropped it into place using, using the cross bar to level it. You have quite a bit of space to work with on a squarebody. A little challenging to get the motor mounts to line up, but it didn’t take that long to work it into place.

 

[BlazerBill]

It’s 4WD. Thanks for the input!

 

[fast 99]

Most times I assemble the motor as much as possible before installation. Access is much easier on the engine stand. Have never used a leveler. My engine plate has 5 holes instead or the usual 3. Using the second one back angles the rear down. Will easily bolt up. Works on everything from a small block to a 6.5 diesel. Can't remember who made this plate.

 

[mrdap]

Hello,
You're have a really cool set up there looks great!
I think you have a solid plan there.
Here's my recommendations for what it's worth:
Others may agree or disagree.
1. Personally I would axe the carburetor lift plate. Go with your chains and leveler. Even if you have to remove the distributor. I just don't trust the carb plates. Especially if you have an aluminum intake manifold which I'm not sure if you do or not.
I know that many other people swear by the carb plates I just don't trust them myself.
2. Factory cast iron exhaust manifolds can be mounted to the engine prior to installation.
3. Aftermarket exhaust headers probably should be installed during the installation process, so you can move the engine around as you need to to get the headers snaked into the chassis.
You might be able to mount the headers to the engine first but I'm not sure about that.
4. I would install the transmission cooling lines first into the chassis. And then once you have the engine and transmission installed install the lines to the transmission.
5. As someone else has noted, the process will differ between two wheel drive and four-wheel drive.
6. For the trans. dipstick I think it would be easier to install it to the engine transmission assembly prior to installation. But it can also be installed after installation without too much trouble except for the little steel bracket if you still have it. I would try to install it on the engine trans assembly first.

Good luck looking good!

 

[BlazerBill]

Thanks everyone for the great input!

 

[BlazerBill]

If I were to use the chains and leveler to attach to the engine instead of the carb/manifold plate are there bolt holes that I can use that would still eliminate the need to remove the distributor and it not get damaged?

 

[mrdap]

I suggest you Google this:

"factory engine lift brackets small block Chevy"

The GM factory used engine lift brackets which are now being reproduced.

You can also find GM original brackets on eBay.

One of them mounts on the left hand driver side front of the engine using two of the 3/8" intake manifold bolts

The other one mounts diagonally on the back side of the engine on the right hand passenger side. Bolts to the back of the cylinder head I believe in one of the accessory bolt holes.

You can also rig up your chains in a similar fashion without the factory brackets but I have found them to be most convenient.

And since this is the way the factory does it you can be confident that you won't have any problems.

After installation, you can remove the brackets for better appearance if you want.

 

[legopnuematic]

I have done it both ways, with the factory lift brackets, and with a carb plate. Both work fine assuming the rest of the rigging is good.

Pulling the 79’s engine with factory brackets

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Installing 76’s engine with carb plate, aluminum intake, iron heads.

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[75gmck25]

My old SBC had the factory lifting eyes already on it, so I used them in combination with a balancer bar. I took the distributor and carburetor off so I wouldn't crunch them in the process, but had all accessory drives (but no fan), the fuel pump, and the iron exhaust manifolds mounted on the engine.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

Like Ali-20 said, Install the trans with the motor, and put the trans dipstick tube in first, as it is very difficult getting it in there after it is in. Also use two orings on the tube, helps seal.

 

[BlazerBill]

Thanks again for all the good input. I did buy the GM factory brackets to lift the new engine off the pallet and mount onto the stand and the brackets worked great!