Crate engine swap advise please?

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Joe383

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It will cost you a little more than $2500 to put the L31 motor in your truck if you go all new. If you reuse the old parts like your water pump, carb and distributor you might be around $2500. You have to replace the cam gear on the distributor with an aftermarket melonized gear. I did a full cam swap and replaced every thing but the short block on my motor but leaving it stock would have been just as good cuz it has a lot of power. Your largest expense after the motor will be the intake manifold. A ram jet 350 cam would be a good swap for this motor but I don't know if the stock valve springs will handle it. I am very happy with my vortec motor. It is way better than rebuilding a stock motor. I like the roller cam, I did a cam swap with the lifters still in the block. The rods look awesome, it has a windage tray, the 2 timing cover bolt holes that are usually missing are drilled and tapped unlike a stock vortec, its a 4 bolt main and the valve cover and oil pan gaskets are reusable.

The bads about it for me were #1 I had to machine the heads to except comp cams beehive springs to get them to fit and LS6 springs did not fit with out machining either#2 there is no hole for a mechanical fuel pump so you have to run an electric fuel pump #3 the timing chain is loose and I would run an older style timing chain cover and aftermarket double roller timing chain as I did. I could not reuse my throttle bracket cuz the old one was using the bolts that held the intake to the head and had to get one that bolted to the carburetor instead. You have to replace the distributor gear if using the stock cam.

I had talked to comp cams about different cams and almost had a cam a custom cam made to use the stock parts. If you go this route you can use a stock distributor gear and springs making the build a little easer. The cam was $280 shipped to my door from comp cams. I had to replace my springs due to my cam choice but having a cam custom made to use the stock parts is an option.

The grind I almost had made was 3595 intake lobe and 3597 for the exhaust the cam would have looked like this 206/218 @0.050 258/270 ADV .435/.447 lift on a 112 LSA and 108 ICL I was going to put .15 shims under the springs to raise the seat pressure a little. This cam with a performer EPS and a demon carb 625 street demon carburetor would be a great set up and is almost what I built but I wanted a little more power so I went larger on cam and carb. Might still grind this cam once the motor is in my truck though and swap carburetors to the demon. Should pull from off idle to around 5K and if I had to guess on power I would expect around 300HP at the flywheel with a little under 400 FTLBs.

I feel the vortec is the best bang for the buck if you are just looking for a mild build but I spent $580 just on machine work to get the springs to fit and having screw in studs installed for my heads and would have been better off getting a short block and some aluminum heads.
 

foamypirate

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Well that's interesting.....for someone Im sure! Apparently you cant accept the fact that the OP wants to stay carbureted. For the OP who wants to stay carbureted Im sure that is relevant info.

:doublepuke: :flipthebird:

Seriously, dude, you've had a 2x4 stuck in your ass the entire past week. RELAX and calm down, you're starting to get on people's nerves with your snippy attitude. We want ChillOgre back! :D
 

73 C10

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I think I'm liking this because it's looks like it has everything, and I can bolt my headers right up. I guess I would still need the electric pump. Does that mean running a fuel return to the tank? It also looks weird. I thought votec heads had the cover bolts running down the middle. This looks like I could use my valve covers.:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-hp32m/overview/make/chevrolet

or this because I can reuse everything off my '73 350 (882 heads):

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-hp291p/overview/make/chevrolet

I am assuming the stoker gets worse gas mileage than the two listed above. Is that right?

If you can see my signature, it lists the current set up that I can reuse stuff off. I'd like to keep the cost down by reusing as much stuff as I can.
 
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Old77

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I think I'm liking this because it's looks like it has everything, and I can bolt my headers right up. I guess I would still need the electric pump. Does that mean running a fuel return to the tank? It also looks weird. I thought votec heads had the cover bolts running down the middle. This looks like I could use my valve covers.:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-hp32m/overview/make/chevrolet

or this because I can reuse everything off my '73 350 (882 heads):

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-hp291p/overview/make/chevrolet

I am assuming the stoker gets worse gas mileage than the two listed above. Is that right?
If you're looking for most cost effective of the two choices above that second one certainly would do the truck because you've already got all the parts to complete it off your '73. I can't speak to the 383 and it's gas mileage :shrug: most of that probably has to do with how you drive it and if you can grandpa it around rather than playing race car driver :driver:
 

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seriously, dude, you've had a 2x4 stuck in your ass the entire past week. Relax and calm down, you're starting to get on people's nerves with your snippy attitude. We want chillogre back! :d

ya ok ok :)
 

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The 383 will always get worse gas mileage then the 350 for simple math reasons. The extra 33 cubic inches will draw more air/fuel volume in every time it rotates. So it doesn't matte how you drive it. At best if you drive the 383 like grandpa it will get slightly better mileage then someone with a heavy foot on a 350.

At idle the 383 will always burn more fuel and through out the entire rpm range compared to a 350.
 

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I think I'm liking this because it's looks like it has everything, and I can bolt my headers right up. I guess I would still need the electric pump. Does that mean running a fuel return to the tank? It also looks weird. I thought votec heads had the cover bolts running down the middle. This looks like I could use my valve covers.:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-hp32m/overview/make/chevrolet

or this because I can reuse everything off my '73 350 (882 heads):

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-hp291p/overview/make/chevrolet

I am assuming the stoker gets worse gas mileage than the two listed above. Is that right?

If you can see my signature, it lists the current set up that I can reuse stuff off. I'd like to keep the cost down by reusing as much stuff as I can.

A lot of the new manufactured after market cast iron heads have dual purpose valve cover bolt holes. So you could run the old school perimeter pattern or the newer center style valve cover.
 

MadOgre

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Another thing to think about with engine selection is the torque curve ? A race 350 that you put in your Camaro is not typically the engine you want in your truck. If your tubbing it and plan on doing lots of high speed driving with it then maybe the race engine is what you want. But if you plan on driving it like a truck Peak HP is not what your after. A strong torque curve off idle is! So something like a GM260 HP with the RV cam is what will actually give you seat in the pants truck performance with good towing ability. If your building a square Camaro then the street race GM 350HP is what you want.

The thing is with a race styled motor the cam usually doesn't produce until in the 2500-3500 rpm range. Where as an RV cam produces strong torque off of idle. The race engine is a more powerful engine and will send you down the highway or freeway faster but from stop light to stop light the RV cam will beat you every time unless you are lighting up a set of slicks and launching from light to light LOL
 

73 C10

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I like to get of the line fast sometimes. Light to light kind of stuff. Drifting is fun too.

So, I guess low end torque is where the fun is for me. What's good for 1/4 mile times? No Slicks. Daily driver.

I cruz the highway around 65-70. As long as I can pull on someone to pass then settle back down to 70 I'm cool. I think I cruz just under 3000rpm.

I think I would like a stick at some point.
 

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By reading what you just wrote it really sounds like your gonna need a cam with a little duration and higher power band.

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

73 C10

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I don't think I want a LS. I'd like a vortec 4 bolt main and roller lifter, if after parts I could turn the key for $2500. Otherwise, It sounds like it's narrowed down to maybe this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-hp291p/overview/make/chevrolet

with a cam? I'm cam illiterate. How do I pick between "RV" cam, "4x4" cam, "truck" cam.

Please remind me if there is another option that slipped my mind that will come in on budget. $2500.
 

350runner

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the engine Your looking at already has way bigger then an rv/truck cam in it. if your set on getting a cam to put in it. .. do yourself a big favor and call up Scott Brown. @ buyracingparts.com
do some reviews on him and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

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I don't think I want a LS. I'd like a vortec 4 bolt main and roller lifter, if after parts I could turn the key for $2500. Otherwise, It sounds like it's narrowed down to maybe this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-hp291p/overview/make/chevrolet

with a cam? I'm cam illiterate. How do I pick between "RV" cam, "4x4" cam, "truck" cam.

Please remind me if there is another option that slipped my mind that will come in on budget. $2500.

What do you have in it now?
 

73 C10

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What do you have in it now?

'73 C10 Cheyenne Short Fleet, 2" front spring drop/5" axle flip drop w/ Caltracs traction bars, 1973 350ci base timing is 12* BTDC, HEI w/ 10* Vac. Adv. and 20* centr. blu/ylw springs, Vac. Adv. on carb mani. port, Eldelbrock 1406 98 primary (stock) 95 secondary (stock), 6557 rods, 8" springs), Holly Contender, Cam:shrug:, '74 882 heads 76cc 1.94/1.5, 1.5" OD header 2-7/8" collector, 142-148psi dry comp., dual exhaust (no crossover), th400 w/ shift kit, 12 bolt Eaton posi, 3.73 gears, 28" tires.
 
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Don5

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I like to get of the line fast sometimes. Light to light kind of stuff. Drifting is fun too.

So, I guess low end torque is where the fun is for me. What's good for 1/4 mile times? No Slicks. Daily driver.

I cruz the highway around 65-70. As long as I can pull on someone to pass then settle back down to 70 I'm cool. I think I cruz just under 3000rpm.

I think I would like a stick at some point.

Ok with these comments then all future talk about gas mileage is foolish. Just saying. The truck has the aerodynamics, big word:shrug:, of a brick. You just need it to run good, be efficient, be reliable and pass everything but a gas station.:) Torque is what you want. You have the right gearing.
 

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