Crate engine swap advise please?

[73 C10]

I did the 4*. I didn't do VA yet. It felt better. No knock.

I'm torn on the kick down switch. I don't like it to kick down on the highway if I mash it. 2nd just tops out too quick. So I like it off.

But it's nice to have a quick shift on the street sometimes.

 

[rich weyand]

I did the 4*. I didn't do VA yet. It felt better. No knock.

I'm torn on the kick down switch. I don't like it to kick down on the highway if I mash it. 2nd just tops out too quick. So I like it off.

But it's nice to have a quick shift on the street sometimes.

You now have 36* BTDC with your foot in it once the rpms come up, which is perfect. You also have 56* BTDC at cruise when both the mechanical and vacuum advances are in. Above 52* BTDC at cruise, you may get some surging. Watch for that. I would still back off the vacuum advance 4 crankshaft degrees (2 camshaft degrees, from 10 to 8). 52* BTDC is always OK, but 56* BTDC can be a problem.

As for the kickdown, you should be able to adjust it so that it actuates only on the very end of the pedal. If you don't want it to kickdown, hold off just a bit on the gas, and if you want the kickdown, mash the pedal. Sounds like yours might be adjusted to kick down too far off the floor.

 

[rich weyand]

So what LS doesn't grenade?

You'll be fine with the G80. I haven't had any problems.

I also don't try to drift the truck, or spin the wheels just for show.

 

[MadOgre]

The proper lubricant is necessary for the G80 to last

 

[rich weyand]

The proper lubricant is necessary for the G80 to last

Shop manual says 80W90 or straight 80W. Is that your recommendation, MO?

I have this service coming up....

 

[DoubleDingo]

Shop manual says 80W90 or straight 80W. Is that your recommendation, MO?

I have this service coming up....

I believe a good friction modifier is recommended as well. I have a posi-unit in my '65 and if my memory hasn't failed me, the shop manual says to use a modifier as well. I've also read that today's 85x140 non-synthetic is more like the old school 80w90 or straight 80 or striaght 90.

I too have this service coming up in my '65 and am going with 85w140 with some friction modifier in it.

I have done both my jeep cherokee and my 81 with the 85w140 and thus far I like it. The jeep was making noises before adding that and getting a little on the warm side running down the open road, now the noise is gone and it runs right where it's supposed to temperature-wise. The 81 diff oil was just plain old, it wasn't making noise or anything but I now know it's good for a few years with amount of miles I put on it.

 

[73 C10]

Shop manual says 80W90 or straight 80W. Is that your recommendation, MO?

I have this service coming up....

75W-140, maybe it was 85W-140, synthetic was suggested in the paperwork. And a additive I believe is to keep it from feeling catchy.

 

[MadOgre]

Shop manual says 80W90 or straight 80W. Is that your recommendation, MO?

I have this service coming up....

It depends if the trucks RPO=G80 is the Eaton GovLok unit or not. I have a 10 bolt limited slip that is not the G80 GovLok it requires limited slip additive. The G80 GovLok however does not require limited slip additive.

GM recommends 80-90w or 80w GL5 gear oil. Not sure if the 14SF is 75-90w ?

I just use a high quality 80-90w oil and I make sure it is GL5 rated. And change the fluid often like every year or 2.

 

[73 C10]

You'll be fine with the G80. I haven't had any problems.

I also don't try to drift the truck, or spin the wheels just for show.

Sorry, don't use the oil I said. I just read about the G80. That' not what I have.

I got the friction disk type posi. I passed on the Gov-Loc when I read up on them a while back. I read bad things. I thought what I got would put more power to ground in turns then what I had (open). I think the lock up is never 50/50. Just 60/40. I can now slide around a long sweeper under power, where as before I would lift a rear wheel at a point, and loose drive. Now when the rear starts to slide the inside rear tire stops lifting. The frame bump stop hits the axle after 1.25" and gets real ridged real fast and stops the body roll. I have welded in a rear torsion bar too. I still need to put the front torsion bar back in.

I don't have drifting hp yet, so I don't know how that goes in this truck, but it feels promising. By the way, I usually "try to drift the truck, or spin the wheels" for myself, when things are low key. It's pretty fun. I'm not part of a "sideshow", and I don't want to run anybody over in town.

 

[73 C10]

It's starting to get better.

I found there to be some bottom end knock when getting on it.

I found the va to be working very little. I noticed this when I went to limit a little with the spiral limiter. I found that when I turned the vac. can screw CW, the va started getting more stroke, starting at less vacuum. I set it at 7 CW turns from the starting point of 0, suggested in the paperwork that came with the distributor. That got the stroke started at ~10".

By the way, I see I could get a limiter that would limit the bottom of the stroke, or one that limits the top. I got the Crane type that limits the bottom. I assume there is a difference in the effect each has, by the amount of vacuum needed to get it started.

Anyway, I set my va limiter, 3 notches limited. When I looked with the timing light, it appeared to be changing 10* on the crank when I attach vacuum. I pulled vacuum by hand pump also, to check that I was getting the full stroke. 10* also. I left it that way for now.

Oh yeah, It's hooking up pretty good now. I did get about four bogs after shifting to second on a launch. I thought fuel starvation from sloshing maybe? My fuel tank might have been real low. I put some in but haven't been out since to try a couple launches. My gauge kinda works, on a warm day

What is the red line on this engine?

What should the shift RPM be for flat out 0 - 60?

 

[DoubleDingo]

I don't know anything about vacuum cans, but I went to buy one the other day and they don't stock them nor could they tell me the diference between the two I found for my application because the information shown on their computer didn't say a word about either one.

 

[rich weyand]

It's starting to get better.

I found there to be some bottom end knock when getting on it.

I found the va to be working very little. I noticed this when I went to limit a little with the spiral limiter. I found that when I turned the vac. can screw CW, the va started getting more stroke, starting at less vacuum. I set it at 7 CW turns from the starting point of 0, suggested in the paperwork that came with the distributor. That got the stroke started at ~10".

By the way, I see I could get a limiter that would limit the bottom of the stroke, or one that limits the top. I got the Crane type that limits the bottom. I assume there is a difference in the effect each has, by the amount of vacuum needed to get it started.

Anyway, I set my va limiter, 3 notches limited. When I looked with the timing light, it appeared to be changing 10* on the crank when I attach vacuum. I pulled vacuum by hand pump also, to check that I was getting the full stroke. 10* also. I left it that way for now.

Oh yeah, It's hooking up pretty good now. I did get about four bogs after shifting to second on a launch. I thought fuel starvation from sloshing maybe? My fuel tank might have been real low. I put some in but haven't been out since to try a couple launches. My gauge kinda works, on a warm day

What is the red line on this engine?

What should the shift RPM be for flat out 0 - 60?

Remember that crankshaft degrees is double camshaft degrees. That's only about 5 camshaft degrees of VA. I would probably go 7.5 (15 on the crank).

If you are getting any knocking, back off two degrees and try again. I don't know what you mean by "bottom end knocking" though.

Red line with stock heads and cam should be around 5000. If you float the valves, you're above it.

Shift point is simple to find. If the acceleration sags after the shift, that's too low. If the acceleration picks up after the shift, that's too high. The best shift point is when the acceleration before and after the shift are the same.

 

[350runner]

It's starting to get better.

I found there to be some bottom end knock when getting on it.

Sounds like spark knock...
http://www.onestopauto.com/What-causes-spark-knock.html

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

 

[Joe383]

^ Yup.

 

[MadOgre]

Sounds like spark knock...
http://www.onestopauto.com/What-causes-spark-knock.html

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

That's a pretty good little write up!