Could use help understanding something in a wiring diagram

[AuroraGirl]

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So I circled my confusion, I know 2240 is the circuit number in the manual and orn is an orange wire. What does the .35 describe?

Before I tear into my trunk to reach this harness where it's hiding, wrapped up in tape and insulation, I was hoping to find the gauge of this wire so I can know how much I can pull out of this 10 amp fused circuit before I need to run a new wire if that was necessary

 

[Bextreme04]

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So I circled my confusion, I know 2240 is the circuit number in the manual and orn is an orange wire. What does the .35 describe?

Before I tear into my trunk to reach this harness where it's hiding, wrapped up in tape and insulation, I was hoping to find the gauge of this wire so I can know how much I can pull out of this 10 amp fused circuit before I need to run a new wire if that was necessary

It's wire size in square millimeters. 0.35 mm^2 is roughly equal to 22AWG

https://lexproducts.com/technical/wire-conversion

 

[AuroraGirl]

It's wire size in square millimeters. 0.35 mm^2 is roughly equal to 22AWG

https://lexproducts.com/technical/wire-conversion

Thank you sir!

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[AuroraGirl]

It's wire size in square millimeters. 0.35 mm^2 is roughly equal to 22AWG

https://lexproducts.com/technical/wire-conversion

by chance, do you think if i would want to run a larger device than the wire is able to handle, could I run a fuse tap and install another fuse and use that wire in addition to the current one as to not overload the wire(it runs about 5-6 feet from the fuse box to the termination on the connector)

I have been lookiing at things to power and 20 amps seems to be the ideal thing I would need ever, and otherwise anything that a 10amp should cover it looks like that distance i would want a 16 gauge wire especially if running continous.

This circuit is unused by anything in the car and only exits for a CD Changer or car phone that i have neither of.

The bused electrical center, to my knowledge, could use a fuse tap inserted the right way as to provide 10 amp protection to the original wire and also, say, 20 amp protection to the wire coming off it? I Wouldnt need to exceed 30, and 30 is where all other fuses limit out at. if i were to use 2 wires i wouldnt use the original wire for the high amp device i would use it separate. anything bigger is a maxifuse under the hood.

 

[Grit dog]

You’re pre-installing a power lead for an unknown, TBD in the future, theoretical “accessory” in the trunk?

Why not just run a heavy gauge fused wire from the battery or power center and if you want it controlled by the key, install a relay that is triggered by any circuit that is ignition controlled?
There’s no point in trying to “use part of the power from an existing wire”. That would be like installing multiple small wires to the starter vs 1 large wire.

 

[Grit dog]

Reasoning behind my statement above is 1. simplicity from a diagnostics standpoint. Nothing you install could "affect" the operating systems of the vehicle.
2. Age and condition of the existing system. You'd be tapping into a system of unknown condition. 20 years takes a toll on vehicles, especially those in corrosive environments. I've always subscribed to let sleeping dogs lie and don't mess with them unless necessary. Subjective for sure, but...example on the ole 86. Previous owners over the years had attached no less than 4 different trailer plug wiring connections into the vehicle's OE system. NONE of it worked and all the factory lights still worked somehow, so that was good. What was removed was a rat's nest of non functional wiring. Why or how, idk, there was literally **** spliced into ****. Only upside was noone cut off the factory plugs. But I did have to repair a few wires that may had been compromised. Best to separate aftermarket electrical needs from OE in most all cases. And more convenient.
If you need a power center in your trunk for whatever reason, dedicated fused, switched line to a simple junction block or fused junction block is much cleaner and more reliable.
Just a suggestion from years of wiring vehicles, boats, trailers for aftermarket accessories.

Plus it's an old 22ga wire, so it's not reasonably going to power much at all, so leave it bein it's happy home.

 

[AuroraGirl]

You’re pre-installing a power lead for an unknown, TBD in the future, theoretical “accessory” in the trunk?

Why not just run a heavy gauge fused wire from the battery or power center and if you want it controlled by the key, install a relay that is triggered by any circuit that is ignition controlled?
There’s no point in trying to “use part of the power from an existing wire”. That would be like installing multiple small wires to the starter vs 1 large wire.

i dont want it switched ignition, i want it hot at all times(then run to a switch if anything but power ports) and no its not for a TBD im actively brainstorming some ideas since I got my refund and on buick forums weve gotten a list narrowed to
1) portable blender charging(not my idea, but a guy really wants his blended drinks at the beach lol)
2) a decent sized 12 volt air compressor which would be used for changing ride height manually or tire airing up.
3) DC cooler, but only smaller sizes would really be feasible
4)USB and 12 volt charging ports, would like to do this almost no matter what. marine grade probably.
5) Inverter(but it wouldnt be good for all that many actual applications)
6) Finally, power to support an auxillary backup lamps that can mount on my receiver for a hitch, ran to a switch. for reversing in the really dark and reminding tailgaters thats im willing to take us both out so back up lol

The power wire is already run half way down the rear quarter panel and the fuse is under the rear seat in the bused electrical center. i was saying fuse tap a 20amp and keep the original 10 amp wire and then i could run the new wire anywehre, say, opposite side of the trunk, and power a theoretical these lamps via the driver side and power an outlet center on the right side. thats the idea. im just not decided on what i want to put back there for certain

 

[AuroraGirl]

Reasoning behind my statement above is 1. simplicity from a diagnostics standpoint. Nothing you install could "affect" the operating systems of the vehicle.
2. Age and condition of the existing system. You'd be tapping into a system of unknown condition. 20 years takes a toll on vehicles, especially those in corrosive environments. I've always subscribed to let sleeping dogs lie and don't mess with them unless necessary. Subjective for sure, but...example on the ole 86. Previous owners over the years had attached no less than 4 different trailer plug wiring connections into the vehicle's OE system. NONE of it worked and all the factory lights still worked somehow, so that was good. What was removed was a rat's nest of non functional wiring. Why or how, idk, there was literally **** spliced into ****. Only upside was noone cut off the factory plugs. But I did have to repair a few wires that may had been compromised. Best to separate aftermarket electrical needs from OE in most all cases. And more convenient.
If you need a power center in your trunk for whatever reason, dedicated fused, switched line to a simple junction block or fused junction block is much cleaner and more reliable.
Just a suggestion from years of wiring vehicles, boats, trailers for aftermarket accessories.

Plus it's an old 22ga wire, so it's not reasonably going to power much at all, so leave it bein it's happy home.

also, i know what youi mean on trailer wiring. my 96 f150 has the trailer wiring harness present(so a 7 way plug and a 2 relay fuse-box-add-on are all thats needed to completely wire the rear, and a brake controller under dash to the connector there already!)
BUT the PO decided to use an outdoor extension cord to run to the battery to power aux and grounding of the trailer lights... they then plugged into the camper 3rd brake light harness(/other running lights) with a 4 way adapter t plug..... then run that to a universal 7 way which has a 4 and 3 wires. they CUT the running lights wire AT the base of the 7 way plug and just left it a unsoldered and wire nutted mess under the rear of the truck...they also had damn near every fuse in the truck the wrong rating, most of them were too high..

And the trailer brake wire, they snipped it out of the factory plugs (ready for a plug and play harness) at the base of the connector and ran it to the 7 way and it was just twisted when i first saw it.

Goodness.

 

[Bextreme04]

i dont want it switched ignition, i want it hot at all times(then run to a switch if anything but power ports) and no its not for a TBD im actively brainstorming some ideas since I got my refund and on buick forums weve gotten a list narrowed to
1) portable blender charging(not my idea, but a guy really wants his blended drinks at the beach lol)
2) a decent sized 12 volt air compressor which would be used for changing ride height manually or tire airing up.
3) DC cooler, but only smaller sizes would really be feasible
4)USB and 12 volt charging ports, would like to do this almost no matter what. marine grade probably.
5) Inverter(but it wouldnt be good for all that many actual applications)
6) Finally, power to support an auxillary backup lamps that can mount on my receiver for a hitch, ran to a switch. for reversing in the really dark and reminding tailgaters thats im willing to take us both out so back up lol

The power wire is already run half way down the rear quarter panel and the fuse is under the rear seat in the bused electrical center. i was saying fuse tap a 20amp and keep the original 10 amp wire and then i could run the new wire anywehre, say, opposite side of the trunk, and power a theoretical these lamps via the driver side and power an outlet center on the right side. thats the idea. im just not decided on what i want to put back there for certain

For that amount of amperage, and length of run, you will be better off to run a separate wire to the battery terminal and then to a buss bar in the trunk area. Just use a standard 0/2 AWG wire with inline fuse from the battery to a distribution buss in the trunk. Then you can pick off that for power to any or all of the above items. Then you can run low power switching signal wires to relays if you want them to be switched.

 

[AKguy]

For that amount of amperage, and length of run, you will be better off to run a separate wire to the battery terminal and then to a buss bar in the trunk area. Just use a standard 0/2 AWG wire with inline fuse from the battery to a distribution buss in the trunk. Then you can pick off that for power to any or all of the above items. Then you can run low power switching signal wires to relays if you want them to be switched.

What he said.

 

[Corvette Ed]

For that amount of amperage, and length of run, you will be better off to run a separate wire to the battery terminal and then to a buss bar in the trunk area. Just use a standard 0/2 AWG wire with inline fuse from the battery to a distribution buss in the trunk. Then you can pick off that for power to any or all of the above items. Then you can run low power switching signal wires to relays if you want them to be switched.

I agree X2 and like Grit dog said forget that orange 22 AWG wire.