Correct Replacement Radiator

[Splandman]

Does anyone know the correct Direct Fit radiator for a 1982 K10, 350, Auto, w/ac.
This seems like it should be simple enough. A few months ago I bought an expensive aluminum Champion (I think) radiator and dual electric fan kit from Brothers. It said the radiator was a direct fit. It does have all the correct spots to hook up lines and everything but there is no way to use the stock mounting brackets. Something would have to be fabricated.

I put that radiator to the side and decided I will use that on my 78 C10 when I get around to building that truck. Went to O'reillys, gave them my info on the truck and took the measurements for the radiator I removed. Got theirs home, would not fit, but like the Champion it could be used, just not with stock mounts. Took it back, went to Auto Zone, same damn thing.

I decided to make this one fit and it's in the truck now but it is redneck engineered with one stock radiator bracket and 4 massive zip ties I used for holding up some sheep fencing.

Rock Auto lists 5 or 6 28 1/4 by 17 inch radiators. Anyone know a part number for one that actually works with the stock brackets?

 

[89Suburban]

I've had the same issue and just modified the stock brackets to adapt.

 

[firebane]

The radiator I put into my 74 was a Spectra CU161 if I recall properly and everything bolted up fine.

 

[Splandman]

The radiator I put into my 74 was a Spectra CU161 if I recall properly and everything bolted up fine.

I will check my receipt, I'm pretty sure the one I have installed is a Spectra.

 

[Splandman]

I've had the same issue and just modified the stock brackets to adapt.

I am guessing you might be a better modifier than I am. I will post a pic once I get home today so you can have a laugh. It's ugly, and the way I have it in there kind of tweaks the shroud. Everything works and it does not hit the fan but I don't like it.

Just talked to a radiator shop in OKC. I didn't ask about price but they can rebuild my original.

Why are the radiators on LMC over twice as much as the ones at all the part stores? Are they still all metal tanks instead of plastic?

 

[89Suburban]

I am guessing you might be a better modifier than I am. I will post a pic once I get home today so you can have a laugh. It's ugly, and the way I have it in there kind of tweaks the shroud. Everything works and it does not hit the fan but I don't like it.

Just talked to a radiator shop in OKC. I didn't ask about price but they can rebuild my original.

Why are the radiators on LMC over twice as much as the ones at all the part stores? Are they still all metal tanks instead of plastic?

I am guessing the LMC radiators are all brass.

Here is pics of my modified brackets. Basically I had to make them longer with another set of brackets I had and had to space them up with some hex nuts. When I close the hood the hood liner felt hits the brackets. Cost me under $100 with the $25 dollar discount store coupon shipped to my door. This is the 3 row aluminum with plastic tanks from Autozone and limited lifetime warranty.

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[bucket]

The 70's trucks could be fitted with a short or a tall radiator of different thicknesses. The 80's seemed to all have the tall radiator, of varying thicknesses (the diesel one was really wide though). I've bought replacement rads for my '84 and '88 and had zero fitment issues, I think they came from NAPA. I also Put a Champion in my old '86 big block Burb and it fit pretty good, only needed slight mods. What's the big issue with the rads you are getting?

I am guessing the LMC radiators are all brass.

Here is pics of my modified brackets. Basically I had to make them longer with another set of brackets I had and had to space them up with some hex nuts. When I close the hood the hood liner felt hits the brackets. Cost me under $100 with the $25 dollar discount store coupon shipped to my door. This is the 3 row aluminum with plastic tanks from Autozone and limited lifetime warranty.

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Looks like you got the thick one generally found in big block trucks. There's a specific upper mounting panel for it, rather than the two little brackets.

 

[firebane]

The 70's trucks could be fitted with a short or a tall radiator of different thicknesses. The 80's seemed to all have the tall radiator, of varying thicknesses (the diesel one was really wide though). I've bought replacement rads for my '84 and '88 and had zero fitment issues, I think they came from NAPA. I also Put a Champion in my old '86 big block Burb and it fit pretty good, only needed slight mods. What's the big issue with the rads you are getting?


Looks like you got the thick one generally found in big block trucks. There's a specific upper mounting panel for it, rather than the two little brackets.

Agreed. Which also requires a new top plate, rubber bushings and shroud.

 

[89Suburban]

 

[Splandman]

Here is the best I could manage with mine. Drivers side I was able to get one bolt in the mount. I could not get the left mount in at all because it would hit the radiator cap. The measurements for the cooling area are the same as the one I took off and all the hook ups for the lines are the same. There is a difference in the tanks though.

 

[firebane]

SBC vs BBC radiators is that the BBC is thicker and generally a 4 core. As I stated above this requires multiple different parts to work properly.

I was going to go to a BBC 4 core rad but all the extra parts wasn't worth it.

 

[Splandman]

The 70's trucks could be fitted with a short or a tall radiator of different thicknesses. The 80's seemed to all have the tall radiator, of varying thicknesses (the diesel one was really wide though). I've bought replacement rads for my '84 and '88 and had zero fitment issues, I think they came from NAPA. I also Put a Champion in my old '86 big block Burb and it fit pretty good, only needed slight mods. What's the big issue with the rads you are getting?

I probably should have gone to NAPA in the beginning. It's our only auto parts store in town. I was impatient though. They usually have to order things for me.

 

[Splandman]

SBC vs BBC radiators is that the BBC is thicker and generally a 4 core. As I stated above this requires multiple different parts to work properly.

I was going to go to a BBC 4 core rad but all the extra parts wasn't worth it.

I have another truck, a 1983 GMC K2500. The VIN says it came with a 350, someone put a 454 in it and did a nice job. Looks factory. Your post makes me wonder if they changed all the parts for the radiator or if they just used the small block radiator. I am guessing they used the small block radiator. I have not noticed cooling issues except when I am in the city sitting still. Then the temp starts rising.

 

[RnDFabrication]

We make a bolt-in all-aluminum radiator for the 1973-1987 Chevrolet & GMC C10 / C20 / Suburbans! We can build these for stock engines, as well as for LS & other engine conversions with ports in the correct locations for your engine. All units include a transmission cooler at no additional charge (specify when ordering). If you want one for an LS conversion, there is no additional charge, and simply specify if you want the steam port or not. Retail price is $470, and members of this forum get a discounted price of $450.

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Here is a link to the 73-87 C10 page on our website:
http://www.rndfabrication.com/C10late.html

Make sure to mention you are a member to get your discount!


Also, we make them for many other makes / models, and all Chevy Pickups from 1947-1988! Contact us if you have any questions. Remember, we are a Supporting Site Vendor and we offer discounts for forum members.

 

[K9rockydog]

anybody got an update on just what bushings to use with the Champion radiator..?? I have a ‘78 and there is almost a 1/2 in difference in height between stock brass, and aftermarket aluminum..