Core plugs.... rtv or dry?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

bigcountry78

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Posts
3,679
Reaction score
8,814
Location
Hickory, North Carolina
First Name
James
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
K10 Custom Deluxe
Engine Size
350
Alright fellas, need some input. About a month ago I had to put a starter on my truck. While I was doing that, I replaced the freeze/core plug behind it that was leaking. I put some rtv on it and put it in but it went in too easy. I let it cure 24 hours before I added coolant and all was good until today, when the plug blew out along with my coolant. I was about 3 miles from home so I made it to my wife’s grandfather’s house. Long story short I test fit the new plug and now it’s lodged in the block without rtv. I hammered it on in and drive home, it seemed to hold. So am I good as is? Or do I wait until it blows out and re seal with rtv? What is the group consensus?
 

legopnuematic

Licensed Junk Dealer
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2016
Posts
2,508
Reaction score
6,485
Location
MO
First Name
Spencer
Truck Year
1971, 1̶9̶7̶4, 1976, 1979,1̶9̶8̶5, 2002
Truck Model
Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
Engine Size
225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
I did the ones on my 79 with no sealer. I want to say I've read that putting certain sealers on them can make they "slippery,"but don't hold me to that statement

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

Dutch Rutter

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Posts
1,081
Reaction score
1,231
Location
Independence, Or
First Name
Joshua
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7
I've always used brass plugs and permatex #2, works great. I would not use RTV, you need something to harden for core plugs. I've also been told by a mechanic shop to use some loctite and pound them in, I haven't personally done this but I'm sure it'll work too.
 

Turbo4whl

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2019
Posts
3,126
Reaction score
7,257
Location
Downingtown, PA
First Name
Wayne
Truck Year
1974
Truck Model
Jimmy
Engine Size
350
Some thoughts for you younger readers. The small block engine was designed in 1950's, well before RTV was used in the automotive field. Permetex #1, #2 and #3 (aviation Permetex) were the sealants of choice for almost everyone.

#2 Permetex for core plugs, thermostat and water pump gaskets.

#3 for valve cover, axle cover and transmission gaskets and even repairing carburetor gaskets.

#1 only for items you do not expect to ever take apart again. One of #1 Permetex originally designed uses was to replace stamped steel head gaskets.

I would not recommend RTV or Loctite to seal a core plug.
 

Snoots

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2013
Posts
8,751
Reaction score
18,198
Location
Georgia
First Name
Roger
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
Jimmy Sierra
Engine Size
350 w/203
If you used RTV, better. If not, if it don't leak, don't fix it. Hopefully they were BRASS!
 

bigcountry78

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Posts
3,679
Reaction score
8,814
Location
Hickory, North Carolina
First Name
James
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
K10 Custom Deluxe
Engine Size
350
Thanks everyone, it sounds like I may be ok as long as it doesn’t leak. And I used permatex on the first one, I’ll have to check and see which number it was. I was calling it RTV but that may be incorrect.

EDIT: ok it was red permatex brand RTV, so maybe that was the problem. And it was a steel plug. The originals lasted 40 years lol.
 
Last edited:

Bennyt

Full Access Member
Joined
May 17, 2019
Posts
1,201
Reaction score
1,854
Location
Surprise
First Name
Ben
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
I've used Gasgacinch for years and never had a failure. One bottle lasts forever. You can buy slightly oversize plugs for rust damaged or blocks that have bad castings. When I worked at the machine shop as a kid, probably 1 in 200 needed an oversize plug.

Brass plugs last longer but the factory used steel and there's plenty of 35 year old blocks still running around on the original plugs.

You could always put a rubber temporary plug in your glovebox just in case.
 

eskimomann209

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Posts
1,849
Reaction score
2,005
Location
Modesto
First Name
Marcus
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
5.3
I've used Gasgacinch for years and never had a failure. One bottle lasts forever. You can buy slightly oversize plugs for rust damaged or blocks that have bad castings. When I worked at the machine shop as a kid, probably 1 in 200 needed an oversize plug.

Brass plugs last longer but the factory used steel and there's plenty of 35 year old blocks still running around on the original plugs.

You could always put a rubber temporary plug in your glovebox just in case.
I have seen them rubber plugs last for years. I put one in a buddy’s truck 10 years ago and he never came back to have me change it for the right one. It weeps tho. I can see the water stain under it. I do brass with no sealant. But I wouldn’t turn it away if I had some no2 form a gasket. I just smear it around the plug thin like and tap it in.
My issue is I usually need a spare. I have big hands and sometimes send one in a little **** eyed due to impatience lol.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,166
Posts
950,716
Members
36,281
Latest member
gsexton
Top