Code thrown but not for my year/MAP issue

[Jawzjeep]

Have you checked egr valve?

I have. Not running it held vacuum. I also activated with a mighty vac while at idle and the engine fell on its face. I was for sure it was opening it at idle causing it to have a vac leak. Symptoms seemed to match. Did have to replace the EGR solenoid a while ago because it tested bad.

I replaced my CTS already and the last check showed values were correct. I had the same issue as you at one point , the CTS splice came loose and its been repaired. While troubleshooting this time I unplugged the CTS and it immediately ran like poop.

if the code 34 is intermittent, check the vacuum lines again and wiggle the harness around and see if you can get it to throw the code again. take the sensor out of the bracket and move/twist it to manipulate the harness.

I pulled all the vac lines and tested them individually to see if they held vacuum and the ones that didn't pass already get replaced. Except I didn't remove to test the brake booster one.

Man I tell you what, I wiggled and jiggled the hell out of that map connector when I was back probing it and switching from one map sensor to another.

Top end cleaner or fuel treatment cant hurt.
Probably could use it since it hasnt driven much.

Thanks

 

[Jawzjeep]

Can the computer tell if my cat is clogged up?
I took a temp reading before and after the cat on the pipe and they were pretty close. Its the stock cat I think.

I ask because the exhaust smells clean as hell most of the time but occasionally it smells kinda foul. Seems to be smelly when it starts to chug or run rough but I guess that could just be running rich smell too.

Off to learn to test the 02 sensor..

 

[gmbellew]

Can the computer tell if my cat is clogged up?
I took a temp reading before and after the cat on the pipe and they were pretty close. Its the stock cat I think.

I ask because the exhaust smells clean as hell most of the time but occasionally it smells kinda foul. Seems to be smelly when it starts to chug or run rough but I guess that could just be running rich smell too.

Off to learn to test the 02 sensor..

ECM can't tell of the cat is clogged. I had a miss at idle and under low vac/low RPM situations. it went away after I replaced my exhaust system. it was driving me nuts. I can only assume it was the cat....

 

[bucket]

I once had one that would randomly stick the EGR open just a touch, causing a low and rough idle along with excessive fuel smell. It's been so long though that I don't remember if it set a MAP code when it acted up. But I could pop the hood, bang on the EGR valve with a small hammer and the idle would clear up.

 

[Jawzjeep]

Gave everything a look over and took it for a drive. No check engine light still so the map is either good or intermittently good.

My kid came by and I took him for a test spin and to get some gas. It ran rough and had no power. Like foot to the floor, didn't want to downshift, 1/4 mile of travel before it shifted. No codes.

Back home I looked over the wires and cap. Pulled plugs and found #4 and #6 black and covered in oil. They're new with maybe 150 miles on them. Cleaned them good and it runs perfect.

If all the plugs looked the same I'd think going into limp mode a bunch might be to blame. Not with just #4 and 6 though. Hopefully just some valve seals. It's always something.

 

[Jawzjeep]

A little update

Still running and driving good so far. Took it to cut some wood and when I got home I checked #4 and #6 plugs again. I wanted to see how quick they got covered it oil. After maybe 20 miles and 20 minutes of run time from the trip they were looking about ready to foul. Even the threads of the plugs have a decent amount of oil on them.

I'm gonna try a hotter plug and see if it'll last any longer. Currently running AC 43's so I got some AC 45's to try. From what I've read that's a good next step. If not let me know. Clearly it won't fix why the oil gets in I'm just stalling/procrastinating. I hate engine work.

 

[AuroraGirl]

A little update

Still running and driving good so far. Took it to cut some wood and when I got home I checked #4 and #6 plugs again. I wanted to see how quick they got covered it oil. After maybe 20 miles and 20 minutes of run time from the trip they were looking about ready to foul. Even the threads of the plugs have a decent amount of oil on them.

I'm gonna try a hotter plug and see if it'll last any longer. Currently running AC 43's so I got some AC 45's to try. From what I've read that's a good next step. If not let me know. Clearly it won't fix why the oil gets in I'm just stalling/procrastinating. I hate engine work.

maybe try anti foulers
what gap are you running?
and you said AC43.. are you using AC43 or AC43TS? Your truck calls for taper seat and extended tip (TS) on the plug

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[Jawzjeep]

@AuroraGirl running them at 35. And I mean AC Delco CR43TS and CR45TS, fingers just got lazy. I may try the anti foulers if the plugs die too quickly.

 

[AuroraGirl]

@AuroraGirl running them at 35. And I mean AC Delco CR43TS and CR45TS, fingers just got lazy. I may try the anti foulers if the plugs die too quickly.

if you wanted to try i would say do anti fouler and step to cr44ts see what happens. maybe try a cr45 on the other fouling cylinder lol

 

[bucket]

Taylor is spot on, I was also going to suggest anti-foulers. Although, I'd skip the different plugs and go right to the anti-foulers. If they are fouling up in that short amount of time, a different heat range plug won't make a difference.

 

[bucket]

Also, what's the age, type and condition of the plug wires? It's possible those two plugs aren't getting a strong enough spark sent through them.

 

[Jawzjeep]

Also, what's the age, type and condition of the plug wires? It's possible those two plugs aren't getting a strong enough spark sent through them.

The wires are brand spanking new blue streaks with a couple hours run time. Put new ones on in an attempt to sort out the miss. Spent a good deal of time separating them with a zip tie loom. I had found one of the old wires kinda burnt. I tested them for resistance and they all were fine but it was a what the hell kind of thing.

I am going to look to get anti-fowlers too.

 

[AuroraGirl]

The wires are brand spanking new blue streaks with a couple hours run time. Put new ones on in an attempt to sort out the miss. Spent a good deal of time separating them with a zip tie loom. I had found one of the old wires kinda burnt. I tested them for resistance and they all were fine but it was a what the hell kind of thing.

I am going to look to get anti-fowlers too.

You must be registered for see images attach

these are from a ford but can you show us the two bad plugs that foul without cleaning them externally, like show me what it looks like in its crude, raw state. especially the taper seat.

 

[Jawzjeep]

these are from a ford but can you show us the two bad plugs that foul without cleaning them externally, like show me what it looks like in its crude, raw state. especially the taper seat.

I sure can. I don't drive it a lot yet so it might take a minute but I definitely will. They were way worse than the one on the left it your picture.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I sure can. I don't drive it a lot yet so it might take a minute but I definitely will. They were way worse than the one on the left it your picture.

even around the taper seat?I am asking exclusively because of that, you may have poor sealing plugs to the combustion champer and that will foul a plug no matter what. The solution is to get a spark plug thread chaser and to clean the threads and then use a wirewheel or similar attachment on the head to clean up where the taper seat seals to the head. Then carefully putting new spark plugs in and torquing to spec (Using antiseize if you dont have coated threads)