Clutch issues

[iamtherealJayy]

@rusted nuts is the rod 5/16? Or 1/4”? I’ve got some all thread of those sizes but that’s it on hand. I’ll probably live with it for the time being until I can park the truck for a week or so. $70 for everything lmc has in stock. Everything but the fork pivot ball and the pedal hardware. What is the correct adjustment procedure? So after I replace everything I can actually adjust it properly(minus a little bit, I’m a taller feller so I need it closer to the floor, I can’t dance on the pedal in traffic) I don’t currently have any signs of slippage or anything terrible. Just some bouncing if I’m speeding through gears, but the trans makes noise so I figure that could also be the synchros.

 

[rusted nuts]

@rusted nuts is the rod 5/16? Or 1/4”? I’ve got some all thread of those sizes but that’s it on hand. I’ll probably live with it for the time being until I can park the truck for a week or so. $70 for everything lmc has in stock. Everything but the fork pivot ball and the pedal hardware. What is the correct adjustment procedure? So after I replace everything I can actually adjust it properly(minus a little bit, I’m a taller feller so I need it closer to the floor, I can’t dance on the pedal in traffic) I don’t currently have any signs of slippage or anything terrible. Just some bouncing if I’m speeding through gears, but the trans makes noise so I figure that could also be the synchros.

I don't remember the size, been 40 years since I had a clutch. I would stay away from all thread it's kinda soft stuff. Adj till You have 1" or 1and a half of free play. if You adj it closer to the floor then You will still have the pedal not coming up to top stop.

 

[DoubleDingo]

I would recommend against lengthening the adjustment rod. The engineers engineered this stuff to a specific geometry. You change that rod length, you change the geometry. You need to stick with what it's supposed to have, both TO bearing, linkage, etc. You have bigger issues than the adjustment rod that you need to address first.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Ordered everything lmc had to offer to rebuild the clutch linkage. It will all be delivered today, I still don’t know what throw out bearing I need. All I can find is a national 1697C, which is like a unicorn and can’t be obtained anywhere I’ve looked. Anyone with more experience got a part number of what works?

 

[DoubleDingo]

Assuming your truck came with a 350, on the Napa website it is a BRG N1488 which is a Napa Bearing according to their description, and the other is a PGB PN1488 Napa Proformer Bearing. National number should be similar.

 

[DoubleDingo]

I thought there was two types. For some reason their site was showing all bearings for clutch related bearings. I did a search for clutch release bearings and it showed the two types. In additional to the numbers provided in the previous post, these are the other numbers: PGB BN4068 and BRG N4068

 

[iamtherealJayy]

So I should be able to get the one that’s a half inch longer?(if I read correctly) I got all my new parts in today just need to pick up a throw out bearing. I suppose I’ll have to pick a day to drop the trans.

 

[DoubleDingo]

I'd suggest buying both, and returning the one that isn't correct

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I’ve got the factory one for a 1978 12” clutch. It isn’t long enough I think it was 7/8” from mating surface to fork and longer one was ~1.3” or something? I’ll look at what oreillys has since I don’t have a Napa local.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Butchered those numbers severely, but oreillys only has one size in three different brands and it’s .66” from fork to bearing face. Suppose I’ll have to order one from somewhere.

 

[SquareRoot]

I'd suggest buying both, and returning the one that isn't correct

My wife has adopted that strategy. Since Covid, she buys everything online. She will get three boxes of shoes from UPS, same shoe-different sizes. Then on MY day off she loads me up with S**T to take to the UPS store to send back! One of these days I'm gonna man up and tell her NO MORE! Assuming she lets me of course...lol

 

[iamtherealJayy]

@DoubleDingo taking the part numbers from Napa and looking at skf shows one is 0.68xxx” long and the other is also 0.68xxx” long fork to face. I don’t suppose either one is what I need.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Decided to just get on eBay and get one that cross referenced the same part number as a national 1697-C. Suppose I either need to fix the hydraulic clutch in the other truck or hope I can change all this in an afternoon one day.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Picked the truck up yesterday after having the clutch fork and throw out bearing swapped. Drive home was decent, hate where the pedal grabs, way too high for my preference. Hit 55mph got a severe shake pull over and my driveshaft fell out. Now I’m replacing ujoints and straps and hoping I didn’t destroy the tcase or driveshaft. Also I still need a speedo driven gear for an np205. Lol

 

[iamtherealJayy]

With the longer throw out bearing and new fork the pedal is so hard to press and today after installing new ujoint for the rear driveshaft the truck is moving with the clutch down again. What gives. After these new parts my adjustment rod to clutch fork angle is terrible. About ready to give up and put an automatic in it.