Clutch issues

[iamtherealJayy]

78 k10 with a 5.3l ls and sm465, sachs1050 flywheel stock 12” 1978 k10 clutch. My clutch pedal stays closer to the floor than I’d like plus if I try to shift gears quickly you can feel it grind for a split second before going into the next gear. My adjustment rod is maxed out at the end of its threads. I can yank the pedal the rest of the way up (2-3” travel) and you can audibly hear the throw out bearing rattle back and forth(crawled under and verified it was sliding back and forth and causing the rattle, also what caused my original concern) why does my pedal not return back to atleast the same height as the brake pedal? I also noticed my clutch fork moves in relation to the throw out bearing. I can twist the clutch fork and it changed the geometry between the adjusting rod and the fork. I know it needs the longer throw out bearing but that still doesn’t explain why the fork moves and my pedal has just never returned, I didn’t know it came up that high until I pulled up on it.
Edit: with the pedal all the way to the floor the truck doesn’t move, <1” or so off the floor the truck is moving.

 

[DoubleDingo]

If you know it needs a longer throwout bearing start with that. Even a worn out peddle and linkage will operate a clutch. I had one with major grooves in every joint and still operated just fine.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Mine has visible wear. I can’t change the throw out bearing just whenever, the truck is my work truck and I daily drive it close to 40 miles a day. It may all be in my head and thinking I’m gonna kill a brand new clutch in 5000 miles or something may actually be wrong. The pedal works it just doesn’t return to rest higher than the brake pedal, and if I try to jam it into the next gear while shifting you can feel it bump a couple times before going in. Here’s the adjusting rod I just took out.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I’ve read about a procedure of “with pedal at resting position adjust rod to go into the upper hole”? Or something. With my pedal at resting position the adjustment puts the pin completely past the zbar. I figure one weekend I get a three day weekend or something I need to completely replace all the clutch linkages and eventually get to changing the throw out bearing. I just really don’t wanna drop this trans

 

[DoubleDingo]

I understand the work involved to replace the TO bearing, but if it needs a long but a short is installed, that'll mess up the adjustment, and the peddle will not come back up.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

My pedal never returned higher than the brake pedal, I didn’t know the mechanical pedal traveled that far until I reach down and pulled it up. I’d say this second photo might be a little bit of an issue

 

[DoubleDingo]

If there's nothing on that pivot stud, yes that's an issue

 

[Rickf]

My '74 has a huge return spring under the dash, not sure if other years are the same.

 

[DoubleDingo]

My '74 has a huge return spring under the dash, not sure if other years are the same.

I believe so. When I had Mean Green, the 65 C20 it had the under dash spring but was lacking the spring down by the frame. When I bought Crusty Biscuit, I learned what Mean Green was missing all those years, but it still worked just fine. Without the under dash spring I can see it running the risk of keeping pressure on the TO bearing because the pedal will never completely disengage.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Looking at that 2nd photo, is that the fork? That keeper spring is all bent up. You might be buying new clutch linkage parts real soon.

At least LMC has all the parts you need when you do need to order them

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Mine has the massive spring under the dash, if I disconnect the adjustment rod and the return spring on the fork the clutch pedal will shoot to the floor and stay with the slightest tough. I slightly adjusted the rod and went down the property and I hate the way it feels it grabs about half up the pedal. I’ll make it a little shorter and live with it until it causes bigger problems I suppose.

 

[SquareRoot]

Better bite the bullet and fix that junk or your daily driver is gonna make you a daily walker! And please...keep whoever welded your downpipes and collectors on away from the welder!

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Actually had a buddy weld the highest joint(rotated pipe to clear the o2 sensor with the clutch linkage) and then a local exhaust shop did the next one. My clutch has never been correct in this truck. I got it with a squealing throw out bearing and no pilot bearing if you recall, I swapped in the ls in February and replaced the flywheel, clutch, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, and changed the trans fluid. Something has to actually go wrong before I’m going to drop the trans. Whenever I’ve got to drop it I’m going to replace the bellhousing and possibly the entire trans. I just currently had suspicions that there was an issue, everything works and I can shift normally if I don’t try to drive like a nascar racer.
Edit: to mention exhaust some more, I’ve got an angry bird that occasionally likes to make noise from the exhaust. Usually at mid range rpms it sounds like a whistle down the road and at idle it just chirps away. If I rev up and let it return to idle the chirp flutters. Has started to officially annoy me

 

[DoubleDingo]

You have the info to fix it. Report back how it operates after you do. It will be night and day difference. Until then you're on borrowed time.

 

[rusted nuts]

If You look under the dash above the clutch pedal You will see a big spring.m That spring is to help Your leg push down the clutch pedal.. BUT,, it will also hold the pedal down 2 " if You have too much free play. THE SPRING doesn't have any presser from the clutch to return pedal to top stop.. Also I have lengthen the Adj rod to make it longer that will give you more length so You don't have to change the throw out bearing