Clocking steering wheel

[HotRodPC]

Same springs. I did pull all the leaves and sanded/repainted everything. The HD front shackles from ORD apparently lift the front 1/4”. Is that enough?

ehhh guess I'll try to buy it. Sure looks clean though. Street Princess I guess???

 

[Blue Ox]

Possibly. Changes in the springs will affect the steering alignment. I would consider just readjusting the drag link. If everything in the wheel /columnn / box was put together straight there's not a lot of places it can go wrong. And 45° on the wheel doesn't take much adjustment to straighten out.

 

[Frankenchevy]

But then again.... So wtf? Do you even drive that truck? Looking at the pic again, all the components look brand new. Tires, axle, springs, Pitman Arm, even the nuts look brand new. What's the story on that truck? I mean, I'd still find it hard to believe that's the original OEM drag link but still the rest of it looks pretty damn clean too.

You’ve popped into my build thread many times! But there’s a lot of builds on here.

It got driven less than 5000 miles in the decade I’ve owned it. Last year I kinda tore it down for fun and I’m just getting everything back together. Most of the stuff that looks new is a result of lots of elbow grease or is new, but mostly elbow grease.

 

[Frankenchevy]

ehhh guess I'll try to buy it. Sure looks clean though. Street Princess I guess???

Most of the miles are either driving around my property or to-from dirt bike/hunting spots.

I plan on driving it more when it’s finished.

 

[bucket]

There's so many things that you have had apart on the truck that can change the position of the steering wheel. It's probably just a bunch of stacked tolerances and a slightly different ride height.

If you haven't driven the truck yet, you will want to do that before you center the wheel. You can set the tow yourself before you even drive it. When you do drive it, pay attention to the angle of the steering wheel when you are driving straight down the road. Then go back home and park the truck with the steering wheel in the same position it was when you were driving straight. Turn the key so the steering is unlocked. Then simply adjust the drag link until the steering wheel is centered. Lock the bolts down and go for another drive to check your work.

 

[idahovette]

All this depends on the steering wheel being centered with the gear and bucket has the right idea on the drag link adjustment.

 

[eskimomann209]

I say jack the truck up.
Count turns lock to lock...
Divide them by two to find the steering box center
so if it’s 3 turns lock go 1 1/2 back...
See where the steering wheel is if it’s off center a bit.
Center it up and adjust the drag link.
There’s no other reason to do it any other way.
If you indeed ARE taking to a shop to have the TREs swapped, then Don’t bother let them do it all. If they can align it they can tell you what happened ... if they can’t,
You need a new alignment shop

 

[TerColHan]

I just pulled the wheel to do the ignition switch and lock. I can go rent the puller again if you think it can be put back together wrong. But I remember it only going back together one way with the horn ring/button and everything...

The steering wheel can definitely be put back in misaligned, the splined shaft rotates independantly but if the wheels were straight when you pulled the steering wheel didn't get moved until you reinstalled it and you put it back in straight you should be good but if the wheels were crooked and you didn't get the wheel back exactly where it was it won't be straight at center.

 

[bucket]

The steering wheel can definitely be put back in misaligned, the splined shaft rotates independantly but if the wheels were straight when you pulled the steering wheel didn't get moved until you reinstalled it and you put it back in straight you should be good but if the wheels were crooked and you didn't get the wheel back exactly where it was it won't be straight at center.

The steering wheel can only be one or two splines out of adjustment due to the limited clearance with the cancel cam.

 

[Etownrodandcustom]

I would say its due to the lift kit it has now? you didnt indicate you lifted it, but if you did... draglink will need adjusting or a dropped pitman arm depending on the size of lift kit, even simple add a leaf front springs will cause the condition your wanting to correct.

 

[mags468]

You clock the steering wheel via adjusting your tierod ends. If you don't know what you doing let a front end shop do it during a frontend alignment.

 

[idahovette]

You clock the steering wheel via adjusting your tierod ends. If you don't know what you doing let a front end shop do it during a frontend alignment.

Not on a 4 wd, both ends are connected. If the steering wheel is centered with the gear, you can adjust it to straight with the drag link.

 

[Frankenchevy]

I would say its due to the lift kit it has now? you didnt indicate you lifted it, but if you did... draglink will need adjusting or a dropped pitman arm depending on the size of lift kit, even simple add a leaf front springs will cause the condition your wanting to correct.

no lift

 

[mags468]

I was talking about a 2 wheel drive.

 

[75gmck25]

This is the process I used for my K25.

- verify the center point of the steering box by counting the turns full left and right, and then back to center.
- check the position of the steering shaft and rag joint. On my '75 the steering shaft has a flat section, and it points straight up at the center point. I'm not sure newer trucks have the same orientation.
- with the box and shaft centered, the wheel should line up close to center unless you got it installed off to one side. I punched a divot in the wheel and center shaft to mark the alignment before pulling it apart, but its probably too late to do that now.
- use the drag link adjustment to put the wheel at exact center.

If you then drive the truck slowly forward in a straight line on a smooth concrete surface, the wheels should self-center. Then recheck to see if you also got the steering wheel centered.

Bruce