ChuckN
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Nov 8, 2022
- Posts
- 1,387
- Reaction score
- 4,319
- Location
- Bellinham, WA
- First Name
- Chad
- Truck Year
- 1981
- Truck Model
- C10
- Engine Size
- 350
Well, since I’m bad about following up- this one I’d for any lurkers out there that may Google search (or search on this forum) “control arm clearance issues “
As mentioned before, CPP gave me the ok to grind the lower control arm at the lower ball joint area to eliminate the 15” rally wheels rubbing metal to metal.
I went after mine with my angle grinder, but not with a grinding wheel, but a sanding wheel. It is easy to shape the metal slowly at your desired speed.
I started slowly, and removed by eyeball. Remember that when the wheels are hanging low while the truck is on jackstands, you WILL have artificial clearance- when the truck is lowered to the ground and the suspension articulates, is where the issue occurs.
I used a thin piece of cardboard as a “feeler gauge “ to slide between the wheel and the control arm. After I was done with the sanding wheel each time, I’d repaint the lower control arm ball joint area and drive it. If it was still rubbing (and it would, even after the “feeler gauge “ test as I’m guessing things still compress a bit) the new paint would show exactly where it was rubbing so I could focus on the area. All told, it was a trial and error process of about 3-4 times. A more experienced person could do it faster, or if they had a lift.
Over and out, PM me or post here if there are questions in the future.
As mentioned before, CPP gave me the ok to grind the lower control arm at the lower ball joint area to eliminate the 15” rally wheels rubbing metal to metal.
I went after mine with my angle grinder, but not with a grinding wheel, but a sanding wheel. It is easy to shape the metal slowly at your desired speed.
I started slowly, and removed by eyeball. Remember that when the wheels are hanging low while the truck is on jackstands, you WILL have artificial clearance- when the truck is lowered to the ground and the suspension articulates, is where the issue occurs.
I used a thin piece of cardboard as a “feeler gauge “ to slide between the wheel and the control arm. After I was done with the sanding wheel each time, I’d repaint the lower control arm ball joint area and drive it. If it was still rubbing (and it would, even after the “feeler gauge “ test as I’m guessing things still compress a bit) the new paint would show exactly where it was rubbing so I could focus on the area. All told, it was a trial and error process of about 3-4 times. A more experienced person could do it faster, or if they had a lift.
Over and out, PM me or post here if there are questions in the future.