Changing front rubber brake lines. Where’s the inner clip?

[Bullet Bob]

Trying to change the front driver side rubber brake line on my 1980 C20. Like everyone else that I’ve found online it’s not going easy like you would want it. Come to the conclusion that I need to do like others and remove the clips and use a vice grip on the flare and a 6 point wrench on the old brake line to remove it. For the life of me I’m not understanding where the clip on the inside is at. All of the pictures and videos I’ve seen it’s already removed and is U shaped. Only thing I’m seeing is the socket shaped piece, but do see in the pictures I took. Some teeth shaped tabs on the inside to hold the threads. Along with I’m guessing you hit the clip on the inside of the wheel well with a chisel until you find the split as mine looks like a solid washer. Figured someone might could point out something obvious that I’m over looking since I do that a lot. And yes I know that area of my truck is nasty as all get out. Hoping to put it on the trailer and take it to work and hit everything with the heated power washer.

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[squaredeal91]

Loosten/Unthread that stamped nut in pictures 1,2,3,and 4

 

[fast 99]

Hose is keyed in frame. Only can go in one way. Otherwise, hose may kink or rub against something. When loosening nut, hold hose against frame on opposite side or it will spin.

 

[Bullet Bob]

Loosten/Unthread that stamped nut in pictures 1,2,3,and 4

Thanks I was thinking it would unscrew, but I have torn up so much trying to fix something at work lately. It’s gotten me gun shy on just doing what my gut tells me. Trying to find a friend with a 15/16 crow foot at the moment as a wrench just doesn’t fit in there. That and I don’t feel like buying a whole set and it not work. Another night of Kroil oil soaking won’t hurt either.

 

[sidschev]

me thinks you need a pressure washer BAD.....

 

[Bullet Bob]

me thinks you need a pressure washer BAD.....

I’ve got a small electric one but it doesn’t cut it when it comes to 43 years worth of caked oil and grease. Pretty sure my grandfather never washed the underside. Did buy a couple cans of gunk engine degreaser today to try since purple power does nothing. Going to drag it to work and use the one we have with a heater to cut through everything.

On a good note the line is changed and brakes are bled.

 

[sidschev]

try that dawn power wash that stuff is amazing

 

[Doppleganger]

I used to mix Dawn and K1. Softened and took any of that gunk off.

 

[Bullet Bob]

I used to mix Dawn and K1. Softened and took any of that gunk off.

Had to do some googling. Guess the dawn makes the solvent stick and not evaporate as fast and have time to break through the gunk. Was debating spraying some old diesel on it since there’s a lot of road tar on driver side control arms mixed with the grease and oil. I used a plastic scraper, scrub brush, soap, and the pressure washer to that area before changing the caliper. Everything under the bed wasn’t nowhere near as nasty and was a breeze to clean.

 

[Doppleganger]

Had to do some googling. Guess the dawn makes the solvent stick and not evaporate as fast and have time to break through the gunk. Was debating spraying some old diesel on it since there’s a lot of road tar on driver side control arms mixed with the grease and oil. I used a plastic scraper, scrub brush, soap, and the pressure washer to that area before changing the caliper. Everything under the bed wasn’t nowhere near as nasty and was a breeze to clean.

I used to detail cars in HS and that was the mix an old timer told me to use. Kerosene would break down any crud but the Dawn (iirc I used Palmolive) kept it gentle enough so as not to strip or damage paint (like purple clean does). It always worked as advertised.

 

[Mark80K15]

I found this post because I had the same question: where are the clips on both sides of the frame? I needed to know how to disassemble the old brake line (from the caliper to the frame rail) without damage. I don't think that has been answered in this thread.

There is a clip on the brake hose fitting on the outside of the frame. It is pressed into the hose fitting. It comes that way on the replacement hose also. Do not try to remove it since it is not necessary to do so for disassembly. More on that later.

In my case there is no clip on the inside of the frame. Instead, I has the same stamped nut as described above. Do not destroy it since the replacement hose may not include it. I learned at the parts store that instead of a stamped nut, a u-shaped clip is available and can be used instead. So to answer the question regarding the clip on the inside of the frame, there could be a clip, or else a stamped nut. It won't have both.

Here's how I removed the brake line. After scrubbing and soaking down the steel brake line nut (inside the frame) with Liquid Wrench, I used a 9/16" crowfoot and a 1/2" drive breaker bar. It's not necessary to hold anything else when doing this because the nut is bolted to the rubber brake hose fitting from outside the frame, and the hose fitting is keyed into the frame. It holds.

The nut actually unbolted reasonably well. Once the steel brake line was tucked out of the way (and more scrubbing/soaking) I was able to get a 1/2" drive 15/16" short impact socket on the stamped nut. Again, it came off ok. When loosening the stamped nut, it wasn't necessary to hold the hose against frame on the outside of the frame as @fast 99 said because the hose didn't spin. It holds.

Now the brake line between the caliper and frame is free (but it can't be pulled out of the frame hole). Use a 3/4" open wrench on the hose fitting outside the frame and turn/twist it a bit. It should pop out because nothing is holding it in the frame hole any longer. It pops out with that clip intact. See pictures.

 

[Mark80K15]

Detail of the clip on the outside of the frame. The replacement hose should have that clip installed, and you don't do anything with it.