Champion radiator difficulties

[Rumbledawg]

Since you have a big block, is that the wider radiator? I ordered the 3 core for a V1500 with a 350. I’m pretty sure the big blocks had a wider radiator. Maybe Champion’s big block radiators fit better? I will look up the part number of the one I got.

i think champion classify's them more by size. there web site says the 3 core will fit big and small blocks. and they have diff sizes of 2, 3, and 4 core rads for squares. i would suggest measure your stock rad then order the one closest in size to it. their 3 core was 1/8's difference in size to my stock 4 core rad.

from their website
Compatible WithChevrolet Blazer/Jimmy 1973-1978 (400ci V8, 454ci V8)Chevrolet Blazer/Jimmy 1979 (305ci V8, 350ci V8, 400ci V8, 454ci V8)Chevrolet Blazer/Jimmy 1980 (305ci V8, 350ci V8, 454ci V8)Chevrolet Blazer/Jimmy 1981-1991 (250ci V8, 305ci V8, 350ci V8)Chevrolet C/K Series 1973-1980 (305ci V8, 350ci V8, 400ci V8, 454ci V8)Chevrolet C/K Series 1981-1987 (305ci V8, 350ci V8, 454ci V8)Chevrolet Suburban 1973-1975 (454ci V8)Chevrolet Suburban 1976-1979 (305ci V8, 350ci V8, 400ci V8, 454ci V8)Chevrolet Suburban (305ci V8, 350ci V8, 454ci V8)Chevrolet Suburban 1988-1991 (350ci V8)

found my receipt, but it don't have the size on it. did notice they have climbed a bit in price since i bought mine in '09

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did find a pic of it before install, but it don't tell much except that it is a "pro series"...whatever that means...

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[dusterdude]

When your radiator arrives, measure it and compare it to the stock one. I’d be curious how yours measures up. I’m heading to Napa today to compare some top radiator hoses and see what I can find to make work.

Ill do that tomorrow and let ya'll know

 

[AuroraGirl]

the tallest, if i recall, for a gas radiator is 19. 17 and 19 sound like the heights, unless its 19 and 21. Width goes WIDE if you have a perfectly equipped suburban from like 91, , but most are less wide. Then as far as how thick the cores can be, its over 2 inches but I dont know how much it can go because some engines will then have clearance issues with a fan clutch .
End tanks with coolers also expand uses but if slimmed down can make it easier to fit

 

[dusterdude]

Ill do that tomorrow and let ya'll know

Sorry i didnt get to it,its been cold as frick the last few days.this coming weekend looks better

 

[veasey]

When your radiator arrives, measure it and compare it to the stock one. I’d be curious how yours measures up. I’m heading to Napa today to compare some top radiator hoses and see what I can find to make work.

C716 for big block mines 4 row hope it works I called in with measurements we'll see

 

[Rusty Nail]

 

[Newcman1]

The original radiator on my 85 Suburban K10 w/350 was shot so I bought a Primecooling 4 row that came with an aluminum shroud and 2 electric fans. Had to trim the passenger side top bracket and install some rubber spacer pads on the top brackets. Also installed some rubber sealing strips on the sides and top to cut down on air, coming in from the sides, bypassing the transmission cooler and air conditioner condenser. I added a few new prothane bottom supports and cut/modified several of the original rubber mounts. The best tool I found to do that was a small tooth pullsaw. Had a hard time finding an upper hose and ended up with a Gates 25484 Flex II hose. I'm not especially happy with that hose as it seems like it might restrict coolant flow.

Rumbledawg I'd like to know the p/n of your upper hose it might work on mine too.

 

[mcarlo86]

The original radiator on my 85 Suburban K10 w/350 was shot so I bought a Primecooling 4 row that came with an aluminum shroud and 2 electric fans. Had to trim the passenger side top bracket and install some rubber spacer pads on the top brackets. Also installed some rubber sealing strips on the sides and top to cut down on air, coming in from the sides, bypassing the transmission cooler and air conditioner condenser. I added a few new prothane bottom supports and cut/modified several of the original rubber mounts. The best tool I found to do that was a small tooth pullsaw. Had a hard time finding an upper hose and ended up with a Gates 25484 Flex II hose. I'm not especially happy with that hose as it seems like it might restrict coolant flow.

Rumbledawg I'd like to know the p/n of your upper hose it might work on mine too.

I have been searching for an upper hose also, and actually ordered the Gates 25484 also since I couldn't find one with 1.5" inside diameters on both ends.

 

[mcarlo86]

I looked and the part number for my Champion radiator is CC716.

CC716

www.championradiators.com

I notice now that they list the inlet as 1.5". I didn't notice that when I ordered it. Just assumed it would be the same as the stock one.

 

[dusterdude]

Mcarlo and others,i set my cc716 in yesterday and it fits fine.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I have been searching for an upper hose also, and actually ordered the Gates 25484 also since I couldn't find one with 1.5" inside diameters on both ends.

Just get a different housing that matches a hose you can find, its also not a bad thing to be different size on one end

 

[AuroraGirl]

The original radiator on my 85 Suburban K10 w/350 was shot so I bought a Primecooling 4 row that came with an aluminum shroud and 2 electric fans. Had to trim the passenger side top bracket and install some rubber spacer pads on the top brackets. Also installed some rubber sealing strips on the sides and top to cut down on air, coming in from the sides, bypassing the transmission cooler and air conditioner condenser. I added a few new prothane bottom supports and cut/modified several of the original rubber mounts. The best tool I found to do that was a small tooth pullsaw. Had a hard time finding an upper hose and ended up with a Gates 25484 Flex II hose. I'm not especially happy with that hose as it seems like it might restrict coolant flow.

Rumbledawg I'd like to know the p/n of your upper hose it might work on mine too.

a condensor will actually increase cooling if you seal between the condensor and the radiator as well

 

[hogdaddy]

I have used a BB radiator w/ plastic tank for many years on my SB 1986 c10 without any issues. Bought a GM top plate along with a reproduction fan shroud from LMC. I like the shroud better over the SB one.

Also, since I recently swapped to a serpentine belt kit, I might have to get the fan inside the shroud a little more.
I believe the radiator came from Advance Auto.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I have used a BB radiator w/ plastic tank for many years on my SB 1986 c10 without any issues. Bought a GM top plate along with a reproduction fan shroud from LMC. I like the shroud better over the SB one.

Also, since I recently swapped to a serpentine belt kit, I might have to get the fan inside the shroud a little more.
I believe the radiator came from Advance Auto.

Do you have studs on your water pump????

And yes your shroud has to cover your blades partially. So it needs to either get closer to the radiator or your shroud/rad need to be closer to the fan. If you can, I would see if you couldn’t find a way to make that shroud raised portion essentially extend a bit. I would go as far as cutting the ring off another shroud if you can buy it need again andthen epoxy and small aluminum or steel plates to mechanically fasten in a few spots

Also what year truck is that serpentine setup for? Your alternator should be fine but an ad230 is relatively cheap and better all around if you find that the cs130 cooks out. Based on I’m guessing your truck not being tricked out with gadgets it’s probably not stressing a lot to put out juice.

Also I’m sorry you ended up with r4 brackets. If it ever becomes too much hassle then you can get an adapter bracket or drop in upgrade sold by various companies that replace the r4. Nice engine

 

[hogdaddy]

Yes, I found some studs that fit. The serpentine was a GM kit from Summit that included new: water pump, PS pump, A/C compressor and alternator plus all hardware/brackets.
I added reverse fan/clutch. I may look into adding fan spacer with long bolts instead.