Cargo light issue

[Restoredrust]

So the cargo light doesn't turn on on my 1986 Scottsdale, The fuses are all good, there is power going to the bulb on both sides of the connection and I even bought new bulbs, However I am not getting power to the cargo light switch (the two orange wires connecting to the switch) the switches on the door I am assuming are dead as well. If anyone has had this problem or has any ideas on how to fix it Im all ears, thanks!

 

[Cuba]

I'm quite sure the orange wire power feed all comes from the headlight switch. So it could be possible that the one pin or terminal is corroded. Then from there the courtesy lights are fused in the block below the steering colomn. I guess verify that at least there's power at the fuse block port for the courtesy light. Sometimes even though fuses aren't blown, the tabs are just corroded enough not to allow current to flow through.

 

[Cuba]

The fuses are all good, there is power going to the bulb on both sides of the connection and I even bought new bulbs, However I am not getting power to the cargo light switch (the two orange wires connecting to the switch)

Question: How are you verifying power to everything? In this case I'd use an incandescent test light connected to a good ground. Then verify you have a good ground by probing the fuse block or something "hot". You said you have power to both sides of the connection.... where? at the bulb? cargo light?

 

[Honky Kong jr]

The cargo light shares a fuse with the interior lights and horn. The orange and white wires. There is a connector back by the rear speaker on the driver side.

 

[Cuba]

The cargo light shares a fuse with the interior lights and horn. The orange and white wires. There is a connector back by the rear speaker on the driver side.

This connector could be the culprit if all else is working.. I read the OPs post too fast and missed where he had power some places... if in fact that is the case.
If using a meter, couldve easily gotten a false positive, I think.

 

[Georgeb]

The circuit should be controlled by switching the white ground lead with the orange constant hot positive. Make sure you are checking for power using that for ground.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

This is where LED test lights kick ass.

 

[Restoredrust]

Thank you all for the replies! So I tested the wires behind the speaker and they are both hot, I tried cleaning off the ground nothing changed, the switch does what it's supposed to behind the speaker turning on and off the ground wire, the fuses are all good still no light

 

[Restoredrust]

Is there a way to remove the orange and white wires from the connectors going down? It's in a tight spot and I don't want to break anything on accident

 

[Georgeb]

Thank you all for the replies! So I tested the wires behind the speaker and they are both hot, I tried cleaning off the ground nothing changed, the switch does what it's supposed to behind the speaker turning on and off the ground wire, the fuses are all good still no light

When you say they are both hot what do you mean? Do you mean you get 12 volts across the white and orange at the plug behind the speaker on the drivers side?

 

[Restoredrust]

When you say they are both hot what do you mean? Do you mean you get 12 volts across the white and orange at the plug behind the speaker on the drivers side?

I don't have a multimeter to know the exact voltage but I'm using a test light, I just know that there is electricity going to both the wires

 

[Restoredrust]

I dug deeper and found a ground with no power to it, it's probably corroded but I don't know how to get it out of its casing to clean it

 

[Honky Kong jr]

I dug deeper and found a ground with no power to it, it's probably corroded but I don't know how to get it out of its casing to clean it

Post a pic if you can get to it.

 

[75gmck25]

- The orange wire should be hot all the time, if the courtesy lights fuse is good.
- The white wire is grounded when one of the doors is opened (although these door switches can get corroded), or when the headlight switch is turned counterclockwise past the detent (you should feel a sight click)
- If the cargo light switch is up/on, then when the courtesy lights come on (for example, you turn the headlight switch fully counterclockwise), the cargo light should also come on.

Troubleshooting
On the driver's side, in the rear cab corner, there is a connector for the cargo light wiring, and it should just pull apart. I would first check there to see that you get power and ground on the orange and white wires.

Assuming you had power in the cab corner, then follow the wires and move up to the cargo light switch (two screws hold it in). These switches are not very well made, and it may not be making a good connection (mine has issues). They sell a product called DeOxit that you can spray on the contacts of the switch to remove oxidation, which may help it work better.

Assuming you were successful in getting the switch to work, now check for power and ground at the cargo light. If you don't have it, then its the wiring between the switch and the light.

It would be best to buy a cheap multimeter at WalMart or Harbor Freight. I've seen them for as little as $4-$6. To verify ground you need something that measures when the resistance is zero, not just whether there is 12 volts.

Bruce

 

[Restoredrust]

- The orange wire should be hot all the time, if the courtesy lights fuse is good.
- The white wire is grounded when one of the doors is opened (although these door switches can get corroded), or when the headlight switch is turned counterclockwise past the detent (you should feel a sight click)
- If the cargo light switch is up/on, then when the courtesy lights come on (for example, you turn the headlight switch fully counterclockwise), the cargo light should also come on.

Troubleshooting
On the driver's side, in the rear cab corner, there is a connector for the cargo light wiring, and it should just pull apart. I would first check there to see that you get power and ground on the orange and white wires.

Assuming you had power in the cab corner, then follow the wires and move up to the cargo light switch (two screws hold it in). These switches are not very well made, and it may not be making a good connection (mine has issues). They sell a product called DeOxit that you can spray on the contacts of the switch to remove oxidation, which may help it work better.

Assuming you were successful in getting the switch to work, now check for power and ground at the cargo light. If you don't have it, then its the wiring between the switch and the light.

It would be best to buy a cheap multimeter at WalMart or Harbor Freight. I've seen them for as little as $4-$6. To verify ground you need something that measures when the resistance is zero, not just whether there is 12 volts.

Bruce

Thank you for the great reply Bruce, I found that the fuse terminal that holds the curtesy lights only works on the right side, the left side is completely dead