CARBURETOR DATED

[boloboss]

My timing was initially set at 4° and I turned the distributor just a smidge it to advance it

 

[Vbb199]

Seems like theres potential the timing could be retarded too much and its causing your issues with not wanting to start back up after being ran a while
Try 8 or 10° and see if it does it anymore

 

[boloboss]

Ok

 

[Vbb199]

That might necessitate enrichening your idle mix a little also, but perhaps not

 

[ali_c20]

I run 12 degrees on my K5 and 14 on the 66 Impala.
Always be sure your ignition system is working as it should before fiddling with the carb.

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Search Uncle Tony's Garage on youtube, this guy knows tons about carbs and ignition and all the other stuff.
He's a Mopar guy but the principles are the same for all engines.

 

[Generalmoto]

I was having this same issue over the HOT summer, initially thought it was because I swapped in a metal cased Wix fuel filter.

Ended up being the ignition module crapping out a few times before finally failing for good.

Next time the issue is happening, check to see if you have spark from the plugs, if not, swap your ignition module

I had weak performance for a year couldn’t figure it out until I pulled a plug and looked at the spark. Was weak and yellow instead of blue and crisp. Changed the coil and big difference.
I agree those ignition issues slowly sneak up on you

 

[SmokinB]

What's up guys?
I have a 18 -year-old 1406 Edelbrock carburetor that's been rebuilt twice. Ot stars right up in the morning, no problem......but, I've been having issues with it not cranking right up after I've driven it for 30 minutes, let it sit for while, then try to start it up again... and after that, if I turn it off and start it up again it cranks right up .Do you recommend me buying a new one or rebuilding it again? And if I buy a new one, what carburetor do you recommend? I have a 350 small block in a '84 Chevy C10

I have the same issue. The fuel is getting too hot. Use a carb spacer that will insulate - and block off the crossover directly beneath the carb if possible.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Seems like theres potential the timing could be retarded too much and its causing your issues with not wanting to start back up after being ran a while
Try 8 or 10° and see if it does it anymore

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Ok

op can you show me your distributor with the cap off like this picture here?

 

[boloboss]

Also, will covering up the crossover on the carburetor intake reduce the overall temperature of my engine

 

[MikeB]

More than likely, intake manifold heat is causing the gas to evaporate. Try raising the float level above spec for starters. The owners manual tells you how to do it. Also try a phenolic spacer at least 1/2" thick.

I'm having a similar problem with an old 1406, that otherwise works perfectly. Unfortunately I won't be able to continue troubleshooting until the ambient temps get back up into the 90s. I've got my eye on an AVS2, but I'd like to hear from the guys that have one, because the float bowls are still in the same place--way down low close to the manifold. A Holley or one of the clones like QuickFuel or Brawler shouldn't have a problem because of float bowl location. Or at least not as much of a problem.

 

[Sad Sack]

Just a random thought but has anyone considered a drain-back issue?

 

[Robert Bare]

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op can you show me your distributor with the cap off like this picture here?

lol that dizzy needs help!

 

[slammed84]

lol that dizzy needs help!

It almost looks like the vacuum advance got broke off, JB welded over, and a new fitting re-drilled on top of the canister

 

[Ricko1966]

Just a random thought but has anyone considered a drain-back issue?

Not a possibility on an Edelbrock 1406,due to location of fuel inlet and needle and seat. 2 like these should stop your fuel boiling. If that's the problem

 

[AuroraGirl]

Not a possibility on an Edelbrock 1406,due to location of fuel inlet and needle and seat. 2 like these should stop your fuel boiling. If that's the problem

wdym not possible?