Can I install a big block radiator in my small block burb?

[crazy4offroad]

You could eliminate the belt-driven fan and shroud for an electric fan, free up a few ponies at the same time.

 

[Jims86]

Just get you som 1/2 x 1s, frame up the shroud on the radiator side, paint it black, get yourself some longer bolts, and slap it back on.
I thought you may have been a drummer, because of your handle.

 

[HotRodPC]

You could eliminate the belt-driven fan and shroud for an electric fan, free up a few ponies at the same time.

Already had that discussion way up there. ^^^^

 

[austinado16]

You could eliminate the belt-driven fan and shroud for an electric fan, free up a few ponies at the same time.

Not ready to pull the trigger on fans......yet. They sure make sense though. I guess I should ask; who's got a set installed, how dependable have they been, and when the fit-hits-the-shan towing up long grades in triple digit heat, how are the performing?

Just get you som 1/2 x 1s, frame up the shroud on the radiator side, paint it black, get yourself some longer bolts, and slap it back on.
I thought you may have been a drummer, because of your handle.

I thought about doing this, but I think I'd need about 3-4" of rearward movement, and that would probably put the lower part of the shroud against that lower cross-member. Seems easier to just take something like aluminum roof flashing, or the rubber mat material I have, and make a 3-4" wide band, and fasten that around the outside of the shroud using something like 1/4-20 bolts, fender washers and nylock nuts.

BTW, the user name is the factory "code name" for a vintage British car that I'm heavily into. Built by the Austin company..."Austin Design Office Project #16" My website: wwwaustinamericausa.com

 

[Jims86]

Not ready to pull the trigger on fans......yet. They sure make sense though. I guess I should ask; who's got a set installed, how dependable have they been, and when the fit-hits-the-shan towing up long grades in triple digit heat, how are the performing?


I thought about doing this, but I think I'd need about 3-4" of rearward movement, and that would probably put the lower part of the shroud against that lower cross-member. Seems easier to just take something like aluminum roof flashing, or the rubber mat material I have, and make a 3-4" wide band, and fasten that around the outside of the shroud using something like 1/4-20 bolts, fender washers and nylock nuts.

BTW, the user name is the factory "code name" for a vintage British car that I'm heavily into. Built by the Austin company..."Austin Design Office Project #16" My website: wwwaustinamericausa.com

You could also get one of those cool aluminum fan spacers, and call it a day.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-75-630/

Will check out your site.

 

[austinado16]

You could also get one of those cool aluminum fan spacers, and call it a day.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-75-630/

I was thinking about having one made. D'oh, didn't think to look for one.

It appears the water pump mount flange has studs. Will they come out easily with a stud puller, or am I going to be snapping them off and have a fiasco on my hands. I'm in SoCal, so nothing's rusty, but you never know how securely stuff like this is installed or loctite used, etc.

 

[89Suburban]

You could also get one of those cool aluminum fan spacers, and call it a day.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-75-630/

Will check out your site.

Ya know Jim? I was going to say to try that too but I was worried about it affecting the clutch on the fan, as to when it would engage. I would think that would "cool" the "signal" to the clutch. ????

 

[smurph20]

Once you take the nuts off the fan clutch and have it out of the way/. Put two nuts back on and lock them together and you should be able to wrench the inside nut against the outer nut and it should come out pretty easy.

 

[austinado16]

Once you take the nuts off the fan clutch and have it out of the way/. Put two nuts back on and lock them together and you should be able to wrench the inside nut against the outer nut and it should come out pretty easy.

I've got a nice set of MAC stud removal "sockets" so the studs come out fast.....unless *snap*

I'm thinking the spacer is a good way to go, especially since I replace the fan clutch with a spendy GM one about a year ago. There's just something fun about hearing that fan hook up while pulling a grade in the heat. Takes a lot of heat to get it to engage, something like 230*F, but in about 5min or less, it sucks coolant temp down to 195*, and will take the trans oil temp from 205* to 180* in the same time.

 

[austinado16]

Here's a shot, engine running, with the new 2" spacer. Studs came out no problem at all, but then I discovered that because of the clutch assembly, I couldn't just "bolt through" the spacer with longerr bolts. D'oh. So I had to find some Grade 10 80mm long 8mm x 1.25 bolts, cut the heads off, thread the ends about 3/8" to get through the thickness of the water pump flange and then install those as my new mount studs.

The final result is that the back-most part of the fan blades sticks out rearward of the shroud, about 1/4". Just about perfect, and I popped a new Serp belt on, so I think this mod is all done. Now I can dream about one day having dual electric fans.

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[Jims86]

Ya know Jim? I was going to say to try that too but I was worried about it affecting the clutch on the fan, as to when it would engage. I would think that would "cool" the "signal" to the clutch. ????

Nahh, the clutch works off of the hot air coming through the radiator core.

 

[HotRodPC]

Nahh, the clutch works off of the hot air coming through the radiator core.

Yep, or cool air as it might be.

 

[austinado16]

Here's how a guy on fullsizechevy.com did the installation of a Lincoln Mark VIII fan into his OE shroud. Je trimmed the M8 shroud and screwed/bolted it into the OE shroud.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[89Suburban]

Nahh, the clutch works off of the hot air coming through the radiator core.

No ****!! I always thought it was from the heat of the hub. How can I test mine?

 

[austinado16]

Couple of tests:
-It should be pretty stiff to turn when cold (cold=engine hasn't been run yet).

-It should roar for about the first 5-10min after cold start up in the morning, and then go silent. If it doesn't do that, it's dead.

-If you see oil w/ dirt stains on the face around or behind that temp sensing spring, or out of the backside where the shafter enters, it's either dead, or soon will be.

-They don't engage until 230*F so it takes a lot of heat to get one to hook up. But once they do, it actually sounds like the transmission has down shifted because suddenly the engine just roars like a freight train. It's very noticeable inside.

And yes, they are sensing air temp coming through the radiator.