Camshaft Install/Rocker Adjustment How-To?

[shiftpro]

Spurt some of that cam lube on your new hardend timing chain and also way down the end of your stick on the timing gear.
If you have any joy juice left after that, you know where to smear it... will reduce your pucker factor when sticking it in.

 

[shiftpro]

I adjust the valves one cylinder at a time, so I don't lose track of where I am. But on any particular cylinder, rotate the engine until the intake valve is completely open, then adjust the exhaust valve to zero lash + half a turn. Then keep rotating until the exhaust valve is completely open and adjust the intake valve the same way. It's not technically correct, but it works. If you know what you are doing, you can actually adjust all the valves in like 4 rotations of the crank, but I can never remember the sequence.

If it's a flat tappet cam, you smear the special cam break-in lube on all the lobes, while the journals get either assembly lube or just engine oil. If you thread some really long bolts into the end of the cam, they make a good handle while sliding the cam into the block.

I feel better actually getting right on the heel of the camshaft. And on a BB you can see all the lobes through the drain slots. So the heel thing is a
luxury I get enjoy wit my beloved big blocks. Then I just go lobe after lobe, front to back. I end up spinning the mill over more times than your method
but that also makes me feel better ha. And I go over the whole rack to check them for zero clearance, and THEN I tighten down 3/4 turn. Oh and important
I think to mention.... New lifters DRY... no oil. So you have to be real gentle spinning the pushrod to feel zero clearance. Then when you do initial fire up
the valves aren't opening fully thus reducing spring pressure on the new cam. My 20 min break also around 2000 ripems. I play with the revs a little, zoom it up a few times.

I'm pretty sure there is zinc in my Rotella... seems to me someone here was just talking about it (few months ago..?) Is there not a code on the bucket
and/or the specs on the side?
Maybe in Canada we get the zinc eh?

 

[75gmck25]

Breaking in a new flat tappet cam is not for the faint of heart.
- You took off everything in the front of the engine, along with the radiator and condenser on the truck.
- You went to the parts store to rent a balancer remove/install tool, and other tools you might need. Now parts are everywhere on benches and the ground.
- Did you remember to turn the engine over to TDC #1 before you started removing the distributor and balancer? Did you figure out how to get the A/C compressor and condenser out of the way without discharging the system?
- You then carefully lubed and installed your bright shiny new cam and lifters, being very careful to work the cam in without scratching the bearings. Then you reread the internet article 3 times about how the dots line up on the cam gears if your engine is on TDC #1. Are you really on #1, or did you accidently get it on #6?
- At this point you realize you should really replace your drive belts and check your radiator hoses, just because you have it all apart. Maybe you need a new fuel pump?Time out for a trip to the parts store.
- After figuring out what a 1/4" of Permatex looked like for the intake end seals, and how to get the timing cover back on without removing the oil pan, and many other challenges, you finally got it back together.
- You adjusted the rocker arms based on an article you found on the internet. You still don't really understand preload for hydraulic cam, or whether you should have soaked the lifters in in oil. Every article seems to have a little different process.
- Then you try to set initial timing, but are just hoping you stabbed the distributor in at the right point so that it will run fairly well until you can really check timing.
- But first you have to put all the accessories back on the engine and reinstall the radiator so that it runs. This is not the fun part (delayed gratification!).
- Now you have to start your truck up and let it run at varying RPM up to 3000 for 30 minutes while you break in the cam. You cannot let it idle to check timing or listen to it. You think very hard about what might fly off and hit you when you have your head under the hood and an engine at 3000 RPM. Did you get it all tightened properly?
- You never realized how loud it is under the hood at 3000 rpm. And you're still not sure you have the rocker arms adjusted right and that the timing is right. But you can't check it again because you don't want to let it idle and screw up the cam break-in.
- You finally get through the break-in and are able to let it idle so you can set correct timing.
- You continue to listen for rocker arm problems, and start thinking "Did I recheck those nuts to make sure they were tight", and "Did I use the locking tabs on the cam plate", and "Boy it was hard to get that timing cover seal under the lip of the oil pan. I wonder if it sealed right", and many other questions.

At this point your SO asks, "why is this taking so long and why do you have so much oil and dirt on you? You told me it was a fairly simple job when you spent all that money on the new cam."

Bruce

 

[Crispy]

@75gmck25 Yup. That about sums it up haha

 

[Backfoot100]

Breaking in a new flat tappet cam is not for the faint of heart.
- You took off everything in the front of the engine, along with the radiator and condenser on the truck.
- You went to the parts store to rent a balancer remove/install tool, and other tools you might need. Now parts are everywhere on benches and the ground.
- Did you remember to turn the engine over to TDC #1 before you started removing the distributor and balancer? Did you figure out how to get the A/C compressor and condenser out of the way without discharging the system?
- You then carefully lubed and installed your bright shiny new cam and lifters, being very careful to work the cam in without scratching the bearings. Then you reread the internet article 3 times about how the dots line up on the cam gears if your engine is on TDC #1. Are you really on #1, or did you accidently get it on #6?
- At this point you realize you should really replace your drive belts and check your radiator hoses, just because you have it all apart. Maybe you need a new fuel pump?Time out for a trip to the parts store.
- After figuring out what a 1/4" of Permatex looked like for the intake end seals, and how to get the timing cover back on without removing the oil pan, and many other challenges, you finally got it back together.
- You adjusted the rocker arms based on an article you found on the internet. You still don't really understand preload for hydraulic cam, or whether you should have soaked the lifters in in oil. Every article seems to have a little different process.
- Then you try to set initial timing, but are just hoping you stabbed the distributor in at the right point so that it will run fairly well until you can really check timing.
- But first you have to put all the accessories back on the engine and reinstall the radiator so that it runs. This is not the fun part (delayed gratification!).
- Now you have to start your truck up and let it run at varying RPM up to 3000 for 30 minutes while you break in the cam. You cannot let it idle to check timing or listen to it. You think very hard about what might fly off and hit you when you have your head under the hood and an engine at 3000 RPM. Did you get it all tightened properly?
- You never realized how loud it is under the hood at 3000 rpm. And you're still not sure you have the rocker arms adjusted right and that the timing is right. But you can't check it again because you don't want to let it idle and screw up the cam break-in.
- You finally get through the break-in and are able to let it idle so you can set correct timing.
- You continue to listen for rocker arm problems, and start thinking "Did I recheck those nuts to make sure they were tight", and "Did I use the locking tabs on the cam plate", and "Boy it was hard to get that timing cover seal under the lip of the oil pan. I wonder if it sealed right", and many other questions.

At this point your SO asks, "why is this taking so long and why do you have so much oil and dirt on you? You told me it was a fairly simple job when you spent all that money on the new cam."

Bruce

OMG, that's priceless....

 

[Preston]

Check out Amsoil Z-Rod oil, I run it in all my old vehicles, It’s worked for me yes it’s synthetic, if I can help let me know.

 

[Snoots]

That brought back memories!

First crank at 11:00pm, open headers, in the condo complex. 11:30 when I drove away to avoid lead poisoning.

 

[donnieray]

OK, that sounds about like what I've been reading/thinking. It seems pretty simple, I just want to make sure I'm 100% on the process.

On the T4 oil - I was told last week that Rotella stopped putting in the zinc about a year ago. Anybody heard anything about that?

I was reading about the T-4 zinc debate on another forum and a rep from Gulf was chiming in. He said all T4 products still had the same amount of zddp, 12ppm.

Hi @samert111, we can assure you that our new T4 formulation contains the same amount of zinc (around 1200ppm). �The Shell Rotella Team
ChrisGuerrero

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Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 87
Houston, TX
Hi ACHiPo, thanks for your question. All Rotella T4 products have the same amount of zinc/phosphorous. � The Shell Rotella Team

 

[Crispy]

The STP additive is super thick. Like pouring molasses. I hope it isnt too bad getting it all out.

 

[shiftpro]

I was reading about the T-4 zinc debate on another forum and a rep from Gulf was chiming in. He said all T4 products still had the same amount of zddp, 12ppm.

Hi @samert111, we can assure you that our new T4 formulation contains the same amount of zinc (around 1200ppm). �The Shell Rotella Team
ChrisGuerrero

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Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 87
Houston, TX
Hi ACHiPo, thanks for your question. All Rotella T4 products have the same amount of zinc/phosphorous. � The Shell Rotella Team

Thanks Don for verifying this. This is what I was alluding to in my post above. I checked my pail of Rot and it's T4 and on the side in fine print it lists
the zddp.
I'm on week three running a new cam and lifters on my 454. Used about 2 ozs of zddp additive in the Rotela. Obviously cam is broken in.

 

[donnieray]

Thanks Don for verifying this. This is what I was alluding to in my post above. I checked my pail of Rot and it's T4 and on the side in fine print it lists
the zddp.
I'm on week three running a new cam and lifters on my 454. Used about 2 ozs of zddp additive in the Rotela. Obviously cam is broken in.

Sounds good. I broke in a fully rebuilt 355 a couple years ago the same way, used more additive though on the break in oil. 7k on the engine now, running well. Another 350 I have was using, not leaking a qt of Castrol full syn every 500 or so miles. I switched it over to Rotella T4 10W40 and it hasn't used a drop in about 2k miles. I was adding zddp to the Castrol at every oil change. Those two rigs will get T4 from now on.

 

[QBuff02]

I'm using Valvoline VR1 20W50 in my 454 and about a half a small bottle of zddp additive just for extra insurance. A rep of Valvoline told me the levels are still north of 1300ppm but wouldn't put an exact number on it. Also when I called Lunati about a question with my lifters in my new engine build, one of the first things he asked me was what oil I was running and when I told him what was in it he said that the VR1 Valvoline is one of their top recommendations oil wise for flat tappet cams. I'd venture to say with the small half bottle of zddp additive I put in with an oil change I'm in the 1400ish ppm range. The key is depending on the oil that the additive needs put in with every change unless you run high enough zinc content oil. Otherwise you'll wipe the cam out in short notice. I still think a little extra is cheap insurance.

 

[shiftpro]

Sounds good. I broke in a fully rebuilt 355 a couple years ago the same way, used more additive though on the break in oil. 7k on the engine now, running well. Another 350 I have was using, not leaking a qt of Castrol full syn every 500 or so miles. I switched it over to Rotella T4 10W40 and it hasn't used a drop in about 2k miles. I was adding zddp to the Castrol at every oil change. Those two rigs will get T4 from now on.

Strange how changing oil can reduce or end consumption. I've seen this before. Doesn't make much sense in my little mind.

 

[donnieray]

I'm using Valvoline VR1 20W50 in my 454 and about a half a small bottle of zddp additive just for extra insurance. A rep of Valvoline told me the levels are still north of 1300ppm but wouldn't put an exact number on it. Also when I called Lunati about a question with my lifters in my new engine build, one of the first things he asked me was what oil I was running and when I told him what was in it he said that the VR1 Valvoline is one of their top recommendations oil wise for flat tappet cams. I'd venture to say with the small half bottle of zddp additive I put in with an oil change I'm in the 1400ish ppm range. The key is depending on the oil that the additive needs put in with every change unless you run high enough zinc content oil. Otherwise you'll wipe the cam out in short notice. I still think a little extra is cheap insurance.

Good info and totally agree about the additive, cheap insurance.

 

[shiftpro]

I have older sb engines, well broken in and I run whatever cheap oil I can get. Kinda wish the 305 would take a crap to be honest. I'm not
dissing zddp here... just saying my older sloppy engines don't care. However I have some new engines in my future like my high compression
propane 496, and I'll stick with a zinc based oil on that monster. Even with grooved lifter bores which imo should always be done with new engines.
Even running the mighty holy grail retro roller haha.